Engine Knock

OB_Speedfreak

Registered
I have 1k miles on my H and yesterday I started hearing a distant tap. By the time I got home it was a much louder almost knocking noise. I took it to my dealer and left it but havent heard from them yet. Any ideas? Iam worried.
 
Sorry to tell you but it may be a rod bearing. Our dealer has had one come back already. Thats all I know at this time.
 
Mine only has ~75 miles on it also (hey, just got it yesterday night!), but I am hearing a knocking sort of sound as well...my TL1000R didn't sound like this, but then again, it's a different suzuk...
 
Mine started out subtle then got louder and louder. My dealer said that one of the rod bearings is scored. He hasnt told me why yet because they dont know what happened. The bike was full of oil and not abused. Iam pretty sick right now but hoping for a answer.
 
Guess what guys... I just dropped a Hayabusa back to Suzuki that I used for an article... it had that knock as well!

When I picked up the bike... it had 350 miles on it (hard ones... it went to VHR first, then to Yosh, then to me), and when I gave it back with an additional 500 on it.. it was the same knock as when I dropped it off.

I am not convinced it's a rod.. could it be clutch related?
 
I GUESS WE ALL HEAR THIS KNOCKING SOUND.
I PUT A STETHESCOPE ON DIFFERENT LOCATIONS
ON THE ENGINE AT IDLE AND AT 2000RPM'S
IT SEEMS SOME OF THE SOUND IS COMING FROM
THE INJECTORS. HARD TO BELIEVE BUT TRUE.
ALSO, SOME SOUND IS COMING FROM THE CRANKCASE.
FOR EVERYONE'S SAKE OF THEIR HARD EARNED
DOLLARS ON THIS MACHINE LET'S ALL HOPE
IT IS NOT ROD BEARINGS. BUT, IT IS ALWAYS
A POSSIBILITY.
DAVE
 
When cold I hear a noise it sounds like the injector, but let it warm up in neutral till it reaches normal temp give little gas it will go away if was a rod it will get loader.when warm it does sound normal.
 
Mine is within the breakin period (~150 miles right now)...I'll probably go to synthetic next.
 
you should wait till you have a least 2000 miles on the motor before you go to synthetic the oils today are so good the it take longer to realy break in a motor if you put in synthetic to early the motor will never break in
 
I agree with Richie -- 'way back when in 1975 I bought my first big bike -- a Daytona Orange BMW R90S. What a great bike (for the time). It cost me a year's pay.

To take care of my baby, I immediately started using Mobil 1 oil, the first full-synthetic oil commonly available. $5.00 a quart, as I recall, and back then $5.00 was not a trivial amount of money (not when $5,000 was a year's salary).

What a disaster. The bike _never_ broke in properly, even though I put 25,000 miles on it before I finally (and now, regretfully) sold it.

Moral of the story: Break it in well, _then_ go synthetic.
 
If the rod or wrist bearings are going out the easyest way to check it is to load the engine down with the front break on, if the bearings are bad the knock will get worse.
 
Hey one more thing. Has anyone cut open your oil filter yet and looked in it to see if their is copper or anything that should not be their such as metal? Everybody around here that owns one has not had this problem. Are these motors being broke in wright?
 
I followed Suzuki breakin guide lines. It wasn't easy but I feel that it really paid off. I have since put Royal Purple 15w-40 in it. Out of all the bikes I've own and riddin, This bike is to sweet to be real. 8 Time National #1 Bill Vose
 
Bill, a word of friendly advice. We had a dealer here in town pushing that Royal Purple synthetic oil. That stuff is BAD NEWS! It contains a class of additives termed "friction modifiers". Friction modifiers do bad, nasty things to clutch plates. I lost a clutch in 2 passes at the drag strip just after adding Royal Purple synthetic. I took the bike home and changed the oil back to regular dino stuff. When draining the Royal Purple it came out with the viscosity of water, really scary. My clutch came back 50% with the oil change but the damage was already done. I had to replace all the plates. In addition to that, we had several bike engine failures around town that summer. All were running Royal Purple. The viscosity is just way too thin.

Do some research on "friction modifiers". I think you'll find that you don't want them in your bike.
 
I have performed my break in, Changed my oil/filter at 575 mile and again at 1130 miles. I now have Bel-ray 0w40 Full Sythetic. My question is about the break in, it is my understanding that Nicasil type cylinder liner seat rings much faster than cast. (PER Lancourt) What do you think?

P.S. I think my 1300r shifts a little better with the sythetic.
 
Well there appartently is some kind of oiling problem on some Hayabusas. Mine scorched a rod bearing, full of Suzuki oil and not being abused. I dont want or need this problem on a new bike. This bike will be sold as soon as my dealer fixes it. Iam going back to my old reliable GSXR1100. I hope this problem is corrected at the factory level, I just cant take a new bike being torn into, I would never feel good about it.
 
Read information on motor oil and additives at (GS Resources.com), there is a very informative article written on the use of synthetic oil and oil additives in Suzuki motorcycles. It is a lengthy bit of reading but very much worth the time. Did the owners complaining about engine noises REALLY break in their bikes to Suzuki's guidelines. I hear about rod noises and tranny problems at this site and it makes you wonder WHY (Da!)the manufacturer has a breakin period. Just because you had the money to buy the bike , doesn't mean you should ignore Suzuki's engineering staff's recomendations.
 
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