Experienced tech advice

StrtRac3r

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So I have repaired my header welding in a replacement pipe on one of the runners. I did the best I could (I have been professionally welding 5 years) and in one tight area I have a very small not visible leak. Only when I spray penetrating fluid in can I see a small wet spot.

I can not afford a new header, or full exhaust so I'd like to fix/run this one. How bad can this effect the bike? Like I said very small leak.

Thanks guys

(if this is a big deal anyone have a yosh rs3 header or stockers they wanna part with gen I)
 
If it's that small it might seal with carbon, but I'd keep an eye on it in case it gets bigger. Do you have the equipment to braze ?
 
It shouldn't hurt anything if it's just a pin hole. Have you tried turning your gas up and sticking your tungsten out a little further to see if you can get to it to cap it? Sometimes that will work if your cup is too big to allow you to quite reach in to the spot.
 
Yea it's far enough in that the wire burns in the middle instead of capping it, I do have brazing tips for my torch but i have never used them.

What material would I use for brazing stainless? We have the high percentage silver for our copper air lines in the shop.
 
Yea it's far enough in that the wire burns in the middle instead of capping it, I do have brazing tips for my torch but i have never used them.

What material would I use for brazing stainless? We have the high percentage silver for our copper air lines in the shop.

No clue there. Never known of anyone trying to braze stainless. Might search around the web and see if you can find something about it.

What are you welding it with? You can also stick the tip out on a Mig (might grind the cup a bit to get it to fit in there better) and get to it. We weld stainless fittings at the shop all the time that are somewhere between 18 and 20 ga wall thickness with both a Mig and Tig. Are you purging the pipe with argon or nitrogen when you weld it? That always makes welding thin wall tube go a lot easier. Keeps the inside nice and slick too so you don't have a bunch of burn through messing with your exhaust flow.
 
Yeah I usually weld regular steel, but our supply shop sold me the wire and gas for cheap. I think like 95% argon. Our usual gas is 75% and they said it needed higher %.
 
Pull the pipe off and weld it fully.I hate leaks.I will be selling my RS3 yosh soon to get a brocks.Hit me up later if you may want it.You want to back purge the pipe with about 2 lbs of argon 100% and tig weld it.You can braze stainless but it takes a while.No wire feed on stainless because it will rust and the heat isnt as controlable plus tig will hold up better.
 
That sounds cool karnage, if it's not an audible leak and just shows a lil carbon I can deal till I replace it. I just really would like to avoid going back to stock.
 
No wire feed on stainless because it will rust and the heat isnt as controlable plus tig will hold up better.

Only way mig welded stainless is going to rust is if you use carbon steel filler wire.
A Tig does work much better for thin gauge material when it has to be pressure sealed (like an exhaust pipe). Plus you can make a lot smaller, prettier weld with a tig. Some fittings we weld the outside with a mig, some with a tig, but the inside of everything on the tanks are always seal welded with a tig.
I've fixed a few cracked and broken Titanium dirt bike pipes lately, love the blue/gold/silver colors that come out in the beads on that stuff.:thumbsup:
 
For just a spot weld , they make 1/16 stick rod , I,ve used it with good results (blue max 309) . Use low amps 20 to 30 , you can blow a hole real fast if not careful. Silver solder might do if you can get to it.
 
We do some wire welding at the company i work for where they use a nickel wire but me personaly id tig it
Quick and easy
 
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