Fast Idle Adjustment Redux with a Twist

[Chieftan]

I posted earlier about adjusting the fast idle. Previous posts and posts to my initial thread gave all the necessary information. Thanks.

Unfortunately, the adjustments recommended did not work. The problem is that the fast idle cam that engages the throttle "wheel" does not contact it. That is, move the fast idle cam up/down--nothing. The cam itself, in full forward mode, does not push the throttle at all for a fast idle to occur. The cam moves freely, it just does not engage the "wheel" so that a fast idle will happen.

I cannot get to the set screw in back to allow the fast idle cam to move more forward, but looking at the shape of the fast idle cam, that won't make any difference. The peak of the cam is already set to push the throttle out the furthest at the current set screw location, if the cam would engage the throttle, which it does not.

Adjustment of the fast idle cable does nothing as that only shortens the full range of the cam's motion, which again, does not engage the throttle, so no difference.

Adjusting the idle screw so that I get a fast idle at full works until the fast idle adjustment is returned to the off position. Then the idle is so low it kills the engine.

I'm stumped as to how to get the fast idle cam to engage the throttle "wheel" since there does not appear to be any forward or rearward adjustment to the fast idle cam or to the throttle "wheel."

 

[dadofthree]

Sounds like you need a mechanic bud. If the cam never contacts the throttle wheel somethings out of place.

 

[Red05]

The pin that the fast idle cam is supposed to contact should have a sleeve on it that spins freely. If that sleeve was missing, I doubt the cam would touch it as it barely moves the pin when everything is correct.

 

[Chieftan]

Problem solved.

I was WRONG about the cam peaking at the current adjustment of the set screw. The set screw is the key. But, apologies to all, the Suzuki engineers screwed the pooch on this one. You cannot access the set screw with standard tools. Yes, a flexible crosshead will probably do it if you have small hands as well. Or, you can remove the airbox, a fun job all around.

I was about to give up when I noticed the tang on the fast idle cam that comes in contact with the set screw. I bent the tang back a bit and presto/changeo, problem gone. It has the same effect as loosening the set screw to allow the cam further travel.

Don't need to bend it back much, though, so take it easy and test it out. This is an easy work around instead of having to deal with trying to get at the set screw.

 

[dadofthree]

I don't know what year you have but removing the airbox from a Gen I takes minutes. Haven't removed the one on my Gen II yet. Anyway, glad you got it.