Got my new to me bike finally to the track. Gen 1 stretched 5-8", (I believe 1/8" flat stock lol) lowering links(on bike when I got it), no strap, 43t sprocket, full yoshimura exhaust, no tune or power commander and leaking injectors. Left side is first pass, launched at 4000ish and wasnt really ready, can't really see but 1.85 60', second pass launched around 5-6000ish couldn't hold steady but was more ready to launch, was weird popped a baby wheelie bogged down and I believe spun. I know I need to work on my shifting for sure and launch since my dad said he could pull 1.3-1.4s 60's with the same swingarm on his bike when he raced all the time, and finish fixing what's wrong with it. These are 1/8mile passes
Couldn't get any more passes in due to one car wrecking then somebody leaked antifreeze on the track so we left. These were my first actual passes on a big bike used to just play around on my dad's bike on the street and maybe 2 or 3 track passes. When I was younger used to race my suzuki 110 dirt bike at the track when my dad would go, didn't have a clutch but I could put it in neutral shift up and as long as didn't let go it wouldn't go in first to launch it, did enough passes on it to turn a knubby into a drag slick lol
Finally was able to get to the track
- Thread starter Djmurria
- Start date
Only 2 passes for me yesterday myself. Sit in that lane for about an hour due to cleanup after 1st pass. Loaded up after that.
What track you go to. That sucks though, luckily we were in the pits letting the bikes cool down.
Shadyside. Chris Moore was there. I'm sure he will post a video in the next few days
I cooled down before I went down. Checked my plugs and refilled air shifter. By the time I got to make a pass I was cold. Not the worst time I had there though. 2nd pass was better. Dont worry about the reaction time. I was paired with a big nitrous bike that had a 2 step. I let him go first, I'm really working on my clutchhand and didn't want the extra distraction of racing him
What year bike And what do u have done that's doing pretty good if stock motor
03. Stock with small shot. I'm too fat to make good numbers without it
That's a whole second faster then I went lol and I'm only 175lbs. And that's on par with my cousins gen 2 and he's lighter then me
Some track time and you will pass me like the rest of them.
Was able to make it the track again with non leaking injectors but still need to fix 2nd gear. Got my first win against a 600 or 750 lol he red lighted and caught him before the 330. Best pass was like 6.7 or 6.9 dont have slips and best 60' was around 1.75. Not really worried about the et since I have to go 1st to 3rd and it falls out the powerband. Couldn't get my launch figured out, first pass too much air in tire spun like crazy, 2nd pass launched at 4k and bogged, 3rd pass tried 5500 bogged again, 4th pass almost 7k launch same bogged but I stayed way closer with my dad. Last pass of the night against the 600 said good time it held at 8k bogged again but I did hit the 1 to 3 better. My dad said I'm throwing the clutch too quickly. Do yall have any tips on how to work the clutch better. My dad tells me to go by sound but i can't hear anything when im making a pass with him or really anybody with a sidewinder. Was actually doing worse then when I had the leaking injectors lol. Last pass mph was 106 and both pass with leaking injectors I did that. Going to try adding more fuel to it and see what happens I currently have it flashed with Woolich just changed the rev limiter to 12.25k, made gears 1-4 timing same as 5-6 and hardcut fuel only amd top speed removed
That was for my dad's bike really and I just flashed it into mine the same. I'm pretty sure I wasn't getting close to shifting that high. Saving up for a shift light and to fix 2nd gear. Having to look over vs thru my windscreen so I can't really see the tach. Should be able to get to the track early this Sunday and get a bunch of passes.
Do u think for a quick fix right now I could just buy that one shift fork and maybe the 2nd driven gear to get me buy until racing season over. It goes in and holds for about a second then gets to bucking and jumps out. My dad said if we open it up I should replace all the shift forks but is that really necessary all the other gears are fine.
Ideally send the whole transmission to Robinson or FBG for undercutting. Both sides of 1st and 2nd at a minimum. Replace any fork that was on a gear popping out. Call ahead for turnaround time. They are pretty booked up now. Get a new windscreen that you can see through
The plan was to put a billet shift fork on 2nd, with this undercut 2nd and 6th gear I found on ebay, and replace all the other 2 shift forks with oem and go with heavy duty shift shafts but waiting on stimulus or tax refund for that, and really don't want to have my bike torn down downfor a week waiting on parts. New windscreen getting ordered tonight. Do you happen to have the part number for the 1st gear that would need to be backcut I have a hard time understanding the parts diagram of the transmission. Have enough right now to probably do 1 or 2 shift forks and new 2nd gear for sure.
Sorry on the part numbers. When I pulled mine apart I just figured out the power path for 1st gear and looked at the dog and slots that needed to be engaged together and sent them out. Mine was pulled apart twice. The dealer did 2nd gear under warranty and I did 1st gear not too long after that myself. I recommend doing them both. I have never run billet shift shafts but have a lot more seat time on Gen2. OEM forks work fine for me as far as I can tell.
It's all good. Ok well I'll just go oem forks then and use the extra money to get 2 new gears to get sent out. Fingers crossed I can use this 10% off for revzilla to get the parts a lil cheaper
Personally I wouldn't buy any more parts than you have to. I would send the complete trans out for the Pro-street cut (sometimes called nitrous cut) for $650, get one new fork, and take a look at the drum to be sure it doesn't have a spot peened where it has been jumping out of gear. You would have a rock solid transmission at that point that will air-shift faster and never give you an issue.
Ok thanks will do that then cause I really want something I can just beat on at track and not worry about it. What do u mean by spot peened though
When it is popping out if gear it is loading and unloading a bend on the fork. That transfers back to the pin pushing on the drum. Essentially it is peening one spot of the drum. It can leave a mark which isn’t good.
Ok gotcha so it'll kinda look like if u hit a piece of metal with a bunch and hammer kinda from what your saying
