The process starts before even arriving at the track. You can ride or trailer or in some cases even “rent” your machine. The ideal situation is to transport your machine via trailer or truck bed (we are talking motorcycles here). Transporting has the benefit of “what if” something breaks or goes wrong..
Most first time racers will simply “ride” to the track and hop in line to race. This is fine for your first trip and initiation in to the world of acceleration and will work for many guys as a regular way to go racing.
Picking your first outing is a bit of a quandary in itself. You should pick an “off day” where the track is mostly running time trials or “run watcha brung” programs. They are basically open for time runs and maybe a gambler round.. You just want time runs.
Call ahead to the track, get the info you need and a rundown of gear and requirements for street bikes. Many tracks adhere to fixed NHRA rules and others will push aside some of the requirements of these “off” nights.
I suggest you meet the NHRA rule book for your own sake. Falling off a bike in a pair of jeans and tennis shoes just because they will let you run them is not going to make you heal any faster.. A one piece or a two piece suit (will full circumference zipper) along with full gauntlet gloves and a decent racing boot should be in your inventory. Yes it costs money but the costs of “not” having them in a crash will easily dwarf the expense..
You are now at the gate (early I may add), pay your entry and now get a “tech” card. Ask the gate people where the bikes are pitted.. find a spot and take a breath..
Lay out your safety gear, fill out your tech card (this card is also what the announcer uses to fill in time on the PA system.. give them something to talk about.. (Notes/comments) They like getting to know the regulars as it provides lots of material when they are trying to fill dead air time.. If you rode to the track, you may just ride directly to the tech lanes..
Tech:
Oh how I hated this part.. sort of like a “fail” waiting to happen.. Just what you want is some guy poking around your machine.. But really this is for your own good.. They may just spot something you missed and save you some trouble.. On a stock machine, make sure your brakes and tires are in good shape.. If the bike is stock, you have little else to worry about except a working tail light..
Your safety gear will be closely inspected.. Make sure you have the right stuff (you called ahead remember?) Helmets must meet spec and are the most common failure point..
You now have your official “Ok to race” ticket! You will also be given a competition number (if you do not have a permanent one already) and this needs displayed on your bike so they know who you are.. White shoe polish is the norm for many.. Find a spot on the bike where you can put at least a 4” number where the tower can read it..
Back to the pits.. so you have a bike, an ok to race the bike, and a number..
That’s it right? Nope….. we need to understand how the process works getting to the staring line.. Although a bit overwhelming at first, it is pretty simple..
Staging lanes (everyone lines up)
Burnout box (tire warming/cleaning)
Starting line
The track itself
Shutdown area (deceleration area)
Return road (got to get back to where you started right?)
ET Shack (time slips) and finally the pits..
Bikes usually have a special lane(s) and with any luck and are usually pretty close to the bike pits too.
You will hear “bikes” called to the staging lanes, take your time but be deliberate, you want to do this the same way every time to help settle nerves.
A routine takes time to build and refine, but for right now? You just worry about getting suited up (at least pants and boots) and get you and your bike into line.. After you are in staging, you will see how the line progresses and be able to time your jacket, helmet and gloves.. ( you can get pretty warm, take some water to drink).
When your turn comes, the lane director will finally give you a “go ahead” to pull out into the water box.. TAKE YOUR TIME!! Acknowledge the lane director and roll out into the burn out area..
DO NOT ASSUME anything.. he is only saying it is ok to roll out, not that your path is clear.. Spectators and other bikes have a habit of getting in the way..
I would suggest that for your first trip or 2, skip the burnout.. You wont need it..
Drive AROUND the water (front tire should always stay dry no matter what).. if there are people in the water box with radios, let them know this is your first trip and you are just going to “stage” and run..
They will usually inform the starter who may come out to give you a hand staging if you are having a problem..
Roll to the starting line slowly.. this is where it is most important that you do the same thing every time as you learn.. There are two beams that the tire must break in order to be “staged”
“PreStaged” is the first light.. more of a warning that in just a few inches, you will be ON the staring line.. from here, personal technique will change but here is a basic starting routine I use, the method will change as you get used to the staging process..
Drop the bike into gear (some do this before turning on the first light even)
Position your body for racing..
roll a few more inches forward to start the process.. I find the engagement point on my clutch at this point, use very light pressure on the brake lever and then inch the bike forward..
“Staged”
Although technique at this point varies from rider to rider, for your first run, roll ONLY far enough to turn on the light..
do this very slowly and deliberately.. after that second ping pong ball light comes on, you are going to be leaving very shortly..
As you get a few passes under your belt, there is a lot more to be working on, but this is your first run, just take a deep breath and get ready to go.. You are not trying to set a national event record, you are just trying to do your best impression of a guy wanting to make it down the track in one piece.. Oh and breath… I think more guys have made quarter mile passes holding their breath than not… J
You will now get 3 progressive “amber” lights that come on in succession.. I suggest that when the second one goes out you should already be taking off..
If you see the third amber, or worse yet, GREEN… you are “sleeping” at the lights…. 1, 2, 3, GO is nice but you will find that there is a period between 2 and 3 that works for most..
BUT since you are making your first pass, go on green will work… Just trying to give you something to work on.. (Reaction times are your nemesis or your friend..)
Time to grip it and rip it… the next few seconds are what it is all about.. no cars, no cops, nothing but a prepared track surface and the reality of “how fast can I go”
When you cross the finish line, roll off the throttle and avoid the urge to jump on the brakes… most tracks have plenty of room to decelerate and no point in tucking a tire because you were in a hurry to slow down.. Take the first “safe” turn off and proceed to the ET shack (time slips).. if you are unsure, let the other bike take the lead and follow along..
Are you breathing yet?
Drag racing is deceptively easy and difficult at the same time.. The nuances are numerous and the mental aspects are tough.. Many races are won and lost before the light comes on to go.. I have watched literally tens of thousands of passes and made thousands of my own.. no two are ever exactly alike and to make maters worse, very few are perfect..
Your routine will change and evolve to match your, your machine and the track.. it will become second nature and you will not think very much about it.. But it is important to do it the same every time (reduces errors)
The very best racers are like machines themselves.. they have deliberate and precise starting line routines and even more meticulous pit routines.. By being consistent from run to run, day to day, you can find what works for you and your machine..
I love this sport, most anyone can do it but at the end of the season, only one guy did it best..