JUST IN CASE ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN FORK SEAL SHORTCUT
Hemroid now you too know the answer ,you dont need all them tools! Just a little muscle.
I just used a strap around the frame behind the steering head used my 3/4 ton chain hoist supported from main beam in my garage that helped alot.
Then I went by the service manual when you get to the part to take the cap bolt loose instead of all those special tools ,I uesd a pin that fits in the hole in spring spacer .
I placed it tight in my vise pointing up then I laid the fork straight out with pin in hole then I pushed and compressed the spring while reaching the the other end and pulled the cap bolt out and parked the lock nut over the side of the spacer.
Be careful it will stay there by itself I then took it off the pin held in vise and slide a small screwdriver all the way through both holes this will insure it not to jump off ,now you can break loose the lock nut and remove the cap bolt.
Now you still have a lot of presure on spring ,carefully take the screwdriver out and go back to the pin held in vise insert back in hole and compress again and let the lock nut go back in tube and release all the presure.
Now its back to the book fork tube will now come apart and you can change the seals .. You dont have to take the inner rod damper out to change the oil and the seals.. But if you want to go that far it would be best to buy the tool to reach down the tube to get it apart.
To go back just do the reverse order its a little bit tricky getting the lock nut parked on the spacer but not too bad ,dont forget to gauge the correct mm of thread showing before putting cap bolt on.
My fork oil was clean and I just made sure I got all the oil out and I measued what did come out ,putting back correct amount 16.2 / 16.9 OZ I just measured this out and put back 16.5 OZ and made sure all the air was bled out.
It was not a hard job but you must be careful not to mark or mar any of the parts ..Hope this helps someone who wants to do it their self.
Hemroid now you too know the answer ,you dont need all them tools! Just a little muscle.
I just used a strap around the frame behind the steering head used my 3/4 ton chain hoist supported from main beam in my garage that helped alot.
Then I went by the service manual when you get to the part to take the cap bolt loose instead of all those special tools ,I uesd a pin that fits in the hole in spring spacer .
I placed it tight in my vise pointing up then I laid the fork straight out with pin in hole then I pushed and compressed the spring while reaching the the other end and pulled the cap bolt out and parked the lock nut over the side of the spacer.
Be careful it will stay there by itself I then took it off the pin held in vise and slide a small screwdriver all the way through both holes this will insure it not to jump off ,now you can break loose the lock nut and remove the cap bolt.
Now you still have a lot of presure on spring ,carefully take the screwdriver out and go back to the pin held in vise insert back in hole and compress again and let the lock nut go back in tube and release all the presure.
Now its back to the book fork tube will now come apart and you can change the seals .. You dont have to take the inner rod damper out to change the oil and the seals.. But if you want to go that far it would be best to buy the tool to reach down the tube to get it apart.
To go back just do the reverse order its a little bit tricky getting the lock nut parked on the spacer but not too bad ,dont forget to gauge the correct mm of thread showing before putting cap bolt on.
My fork oil was clean and I just made sure I got all the oil out and I measued what did come out ,putting back correct amount 16.2 / 16.9 OZ I just measured this out and put back 16.5 OZ and made sure all the air was bled out.
It was not a hard job but you must be careful not to mark or mar any of the parts ..Hope this helps someone who wants to do it their self.
