Forks won't lock after dealer installed triple tree/lowering kit.

Vonderbach

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First post, so if this is in the wrong place, my apologies.

This Saturday I bought a new Busa and the dealer had preinstalled a lowering kit with the chrome triple tree. unfortunately, it appears that this mod seems to have eliminated the ability to lock the front end and turn the key swtich to engage the parking lights. It seems that they installed some metal spacers on each side of the fork that stops the wheel from turning all the way, and hitting the brake handle on the fairing.

Is this normal? Should the dealer be responsible for fixing this? I'm new to sport bikes and I need to know how much the dealer should be responsible for fixing considering that these are mods and not factory.

Thanks in advance
 
I have never lowered a bike so I can't help but I can say:welcome: and posting pics of your ride are in the :rulez:
 
I have never lowered a bike so I can't help but I can say:welcome: and posting pics of your ride are in the :rulez:

:thumbsup:

Busa.jpg
 
As it is an aftermarket thing, I doubt they are really responsible to make the lock work, that is just poor engineering on the makers part of the lowering parts.. need to find out what you have for parts and see who has what you want.. Many times form and function do not meet well.. I have an aftermarket triple tree (Cyclecat) that works fine. I would bet there is a unit that will do what you want.. or try removing the stops..
 
I would take it back and talk to the manager right off the bat to avoid any bs from anyone else. You can always mention the fact you cannot set your park lights as a safety issue from them and have them remove the kit

...I have a GENI..not lowered, but still have not heard or read about any blocks to keep a lowered bike from lock to lock.

post up some pics.

Did they install bar spacers to lift the triple tree cover up so your riding position is more upright? If that is what they did I think I know what you are talking about.
 
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Bluehaya,

I'll get pics, but I'll try to explain better for the moment.

The spacers are down on the forks at the brace point (about 6" above the fender) where the forks will normally have a hard stopper to keep them from turning too far. What they did was to glue (JBweld?) an additional piece of metal to keep the fork from turing as far as it normally would.

I have to assume that they took a shortcut somewhere, as I can't imagine anyone being happy with the inability to lock their front end.

FYI, you guys are FAST! :beerchug:
 
Take some close up pics of the upper clamp, post them here, I want to see. The lock should still work.

P.
 
sounds like they jacked something up. i would make them fix it or they could have thier bike back. jmo
 
btw i say this because i have done everytinhg under the sun to my bike and the fork locks still work. however if your worried about the forks locks for theft deterent reasons let it go, a thief can break the fork lock in about 2 seconds.
 
My GENI is lowered, and I have no issues with the fork locks. Take it back and ask them to fix it. if its a dealer installed part, they should be responsible for fixing that. If it had been me installing it, i would have called you to let you know that it wouldnt work andmore and asked you if you still wanted it on there. But, thats just me.
 
Sounds like the put blocks/spacers on to stop the handlebars from hitting the upper fairing?
 
Sounds like the put blocks/spacers on to stop the handlebars from hitting the upper fairing?
That is correct. But I can't imagine that there isn't a provision in place for this to make the forks function correctly.
 
Problem with most aftermarket lowering clamps is it put the position of the handlebars forward. Just enough to where the handlebars hit the fairing. If you have the stock clamp and put it over the aftermarket one you will see how far it goes forward. I'm sure if you took the spacers out you should be able to lock it again. They probably put them in there to cover their own ars from having you come back at them saying that you got into an accident by pinching your hand while on a tight turn.

So you really have a choice. Lock and have your bars hit the fairing leaving wear marks when it happens or try a different type of Clamp. I'm sure some here can tell you which can cause a hit and which won't. Lots of people just live with the fact that it can hit. mostly due to the fact they aren't turning tight enough for it to be a problem very often.

Most people when they park their bike turn the front all the way to one side. Which if the bars hit,it will cause that rubbing/wearing issue.

Roadlock is a nice product you can use to lock your Busa.

Not the best picture,but you can see where the bars are over the fork tubes. you Clamp they aren't.

080220_143001.jpg
 
Problem with most aftermarket lowering clamps is it put the position of the handlebars forward. Just enough to where the handlebars hit the fairing. If you have the stock clamp and put it over the aftermarket one you will see how far it goes forward. I'm sure if you took the spacers out you should be able to lock it again. They probably put them in there to cover their own ars from having you come back at them saying that you got into an accident by pinching your hand while on a tight turn.

So you really have a choice. Lock and have your bars hit the fairing leaving wear marks when it happens or try a different type of Clamp. I'm sure some here can tell you which can cause a hit and which won't. Lots of people just live with the fact that it can hit. mostly due to the fact they aren't turning tight enough for it to be a problem very often.

Most people when they park their bike turn the front all the way to one side. Which if the bars hit,it will cause that rubbing/wearing issue.

Roadlock is a nice product you can use to lock your Busa.

Not the best picture,but you can see where the bars are over the fork tubes. you Clamp they aren't.


this might sound off the wall but I can't see the chrome triple tree in that image?

but in all honesty when you lower a bike you've changed the geometry, obviously if the bike widens as you lower the clips you will run out of room to function naturally...

I cant tell all thats been done but it appears you have removed the stock triple setup and pushed the forks up to lower the front, since the chassis is wider the lower down you go the bars are colliding due to increased width?

apparently your only action is to install after market adjustable clip ons in an effort to maintain desired effect, odd the installer didn't alert you to that situation? maybe he just threw the parts on and didn't bother to check functionality?

so, remove the spacers or whatever, thats ghetto..

you have the choice of removing the spotting pins off the clips so you can move them, not advised as they are not designed to maintain position with engineered grip, the pin holds them in place, not the torque of the bolt you tighten them down with, (if you over tighten the bolt to add grip you will ultimately pinch the fork and fubar functionality...

ultimate fix is after market clip ons, they have more clamp area and you will notice this, prolly 3 bolts all in all compared to 2, also they cipe the interior mating surface for grip so you can still maintain the 8lbs of maximum torque and not have them move around on you...

simple really, aftermarket trees require aftermarket clips, installer should know this, not a prob though, keep the monkeys away from your bike, order online and install your self...

the manufacturer of the tree will offer clips...
 
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