For anyone wanting a bit more visibility, you can convert your turn signals into running lights. Of the two methods here, both produce different results. The first is an easy, but dim approach and the second is more involved but runs the lights at full power.
European models have running lights built into the headlight, but since US models do not come equipped with light switches, that little extra 5 watts (W) is going to be useless (not to mention the cost of purchasing a European headlight assembly).
Easy, but Dim Method
If you can find them, get some dual-filament light connectors and bulbs. These should run at 21 W and 5 W. Remove your front cowling and look at the signals. You will simply replace the original sockets with the new ones and run the signal wires into the dual-filament socket such that they run on the high 21 W line. Now, to get power to the low 5 W line. Look above the headlight assembly. You should see a two wires (black/white and brown/black) running to a two pin connector that is not connected to anything. This is the actual running light connector for the European models (BTW, everything on your US bike is already connected for full Euro features, all you need is the parts and it is plug-and-play from there). The black/white wire is ground and since you are running ground from the signal connection, you will not need this. The brown/black wire is what you need. Cut the wires and run the brown/black wire to the low power connector on each signal. Replace the sockets, cowling and you are done. If you have light switch from a Euro model bike, the running lights will switch off in the right or off position. They will remain on in the middle and left-on positions.
Involved, but Bright Method
You will to gather some parts for this one. This uses the stock signals, so the lights will always be at full brightness. Here is a small list of parts and the probable place to find them:
-Trailer/rear brake light module (small box for converting trailer brake signals into brake/turn signals) - $13 at most auto parts stores
-Two (2) - 6.8 ohm, 25 W power resistor - $2 at most electronics supply stores (try Fry's or Radio Shack)
Do not confuse the resistor with the 6.8K (6800) resistors used in the 5th gear TRE. That is 6.8 ohms with no zeros attached (people have asked me about that). This is a power resistor, so it looks like a large .5"x.5"x5" ceramic block with two leads on each end and it should be rated to 20-25 W (get the highest available, up to 25 W, any more is just overkill). The reason you need these two resistors is to place a load on the circuit. With the trailer light module in place, the load of two lights is taken out of the turn signal circuit and placed on the running light circuit, so without them, your signals will blink at an annoyingly rapid rate. Here is how I found the proper resistance (for anyone interested):
P=IV and V=IR
I= P/V = V/R
R = V²/P = (12 volts)² / (21 W) = 144 V² / 21 W = 6.86 ohms
The signals will run at the exact same rate as stock after you are done.
Now, the trailer light module should be a little black box with 7 wires hanging out of it, three on one side and four on the other. On the top, it should label the wires and say 'CAR SIDE' and 'TRAILER SIDE'. Two of the wires should be labeled 'TAIL LIGHT'. You do not need this, so just go ahead and cut those wires short and tape them.
Now, you should have your front cowling removed and all of the work will be done here, so you might as well bring it inside somewhere where you have plenty of light to see and are comfortable. I would also suggest to get a soldering iron, and shrink tubing to make the job neat and weather proof (you don't want to botch this with crappy connections only to have the wires corrode and fail five months later). So, take a look at the cowling and find a good place for the little black box and the wires to the signals. The box won't fit above headlight assembly since the front frame is in the way. I would suggest placing it behind the headlight or below. If you have 135 dB horns installed like me, the sides will not work either, especially with the ram air tubes in the way. Once you have found a suitable place, you can attach the box with either straps or some good double-stick foam tape (3M is great), but do not attach it just yet.
Now we can do the wiring. Look for two wires that go form the left side of the cowling over the headlight assembly and end with a brown, two-pin connector. The two wires are black/white and brown/black. This is your running light connection. The black/white wire is ground and the brown is hot. Now the following diagram should help you for the rest of the way.
Be sure to wrap the resistors with something, like large wire loom and strap them to something on the cowling, like a wire holder. Attach the black box with tape or strap it down, connect the cowling wiring harness to the bike and test the circuit. Put everything back together and you are done.
If you run high beams during the day, combined with the extra yellow light, people will be able to see you for literally miles.
European models have running lights built into the headlight, but since US models do not come equipped with light switches, that little extra 5 watts (W) is going to be useless (not to mention the cost of purchasing a European headlight assembly).
Easy, but Dim Method
If you can find them, get some dual-filament light connectors and bulbs. These should run at 21 W and 5 W. Remove your front cowling and look at the signals. You will simply replace the original sockets with the new ones and run the signal wires into the dual-filament socket such that they run on the high 21 W line. Now, to get power to the low 5 W line. Look above the headlight assembly. You should see a two wires (black/white and brown/black) running to a two pin connector that is not connected to anything. This is the actual running light connector for the European models (BTW, everything on your US bike is already connected for full Euro features, all you need is the parts and it is plug-and-play from there). The black/white wire is ground and since you are running ground from the signal connection, you will not need this. The brown/black wire is what you need. Cut the wires and run the brown/black wire to the low power connector on each signal. Replace the sockets, cowling and you are done. If you have light switch from a Euro model bike, the running lights will switch off in the right or off position. They will remain on in the middle and left-on positions.
Involved, but Bright Method
You will to gather some parts for this one. This uses the stock signals, so the lights will always be at full brightness. Here is a small list of parts and the probable place to find them:
-Trailer/rear brake light module (small box for converting trailer brake signals into brake/turn signals) - $13 at most auto parts stores
-Two (2) - 6.8 ohm, 25 W power resistor - $2 at most electronics supply stores (try Fry's or Radio Shack)
Do not confuse the resistor with the 6.8K (6800) resistors used in the 5th gear TRE. That is 6.8 ohms with no zeros attached (people have asked me about that). This is a power resistor, so it looks like a large .5"x.5"x5" ceramic block with two leads on each end and it should be rated to 20-25 W (get the highest available, up to 25 W, any more is just overkill). The reason you need these two resistors is to place a load on the circuit. With the trailer light module in place, the load of two lights is taken out of the turn signal circuit and placed on the running light circuit, so without them, your signals will blink at an annoyingly rapid rate. Here is how I found the proper resistance (for anyone interested):
P=IV and V=IR
I= P/V = V/R
R = V²/P = (12 volts)² / (21 W) = 144 V² / 21 W = 6.86 ohms
The signals will run at the exact same rate as stock after you are done.
Now, the trailer light module should be a little black box with 7 wires hanging out of it, three on one side and four on the other. On the top, it should label the wires and say 'CAR SIDE' and 'TRAILER SIDE'. Two of the wires should be labeled 'TAIL LIGHT'. You do not need this, so just go ahead and cut those wires short and tape them.
Now, you should have your front cowling removed and all of the work will be done here, so you might as well bring it inside somewhere where you have plenty of light to see and are comfortable. I would also suggest to get a soldering iron, and shrink tubing to make the job neat and weather proof (you don't want to botch this with crappy connections only to have the wires corrode and fail five months later). So, take a look at the cowling and find a good place for the little black box and the wires to the signals. The box won't fit above headlight assembly since the front frame is in the way. I would suggest placing it behind the headlight or below. If you have 135 dB horns installed like me, the sides will not work either, especially with the ram air tubes in the way. Once you have found a suitable place, you can attach the box with either straps or some good double-stick foam tape (3M is great), but do not attach it just yet.
Now we can do the wiring. Look for two wires that go form the left side of the cowling over the headlight assembly and end with a brown, two-pin connector. The two wires are black/white and brown/black. This is your running light connection. The black/white wire is ground and the brown is hot. Now the following diagram should help you for the rest of the way.
Be sure to wrap the resistors with something, like large wire loom and strap them to something on the cowling, like a wire holder. Attach the black box with tape or strap it down, connect the cowling wiring harness to the bike and test the circuit. Put everything back together and you are done.
If you run high beams during the day, combined with the extra yellow light, people will be able to see you for literally miles.
