I am trying to find the fuel filter mod that was posted a while back. With the k&n fuel filter and the steel braded line,with the an fittings. I printed it and misplaced it now that I am trying to order the parts. Any help?
Fuel filter mod
- Thread starter busabullet
- Start date
still looking
ask and you shall recive
One common problem with the 1999 and some 2000 model pumps is copper coming from the pumps themselves and clogging the fuel screens. If you didn't get a recall or missed warrantee service or just want more fuel flow, this is an effective solution. Bike with fuel problems will have a number of symptoms. The bike idle will be rough and will tend to stall as it warms and when opening the throttle and shifting, the bike will suddenly lose power, as if you had just pulled in the clutch among other power-loss symptoms.
I got all the parts I needed for this at Jeg's and Summit Racing.
Here are the part numbers for the three items you will need from Summit:
KNN-81-0040 6AN K&N Fuel Filter
AER-FCM1012 Straight 6AN aluminum hose fitting
EAR-403006 6 AN, 3 ft., braided stainless steel fuel line
They seem to have the filters on backorder, so you might try Jeg's, which seems to have everything but the fuel line.
You will also need to order a packing seal for the fuel pump Part No. 15144-24F00. You should also get two 3/32" wide o-rings, one measuring ID: 1-3/8", OD: 1-9/16" and one measuring ID: 1-9/16", OD: 1-3/4" and a third small o-ring for the pressure regulator (I forget the size, but you can usually reuse this one.
OK, now to the installation:
You will need to cut the fuel line without freying the braid. A Dremel will work with patience, otherwise a band saw or cutoff saw works best. I used a 10" cutoff saw with a metal-cutting blade. You should wrap the section that you will cut with either shrink tubing or tape. Cut one length to 4.5" and another length to 7.5". You should have two lengths of hose with both ends wrapped in tape or tubing. Remove the tape from only one end on each, this will be the end inserted into the fittings.
Dip the ends to be pressed into some fresh motor oil for lubrication. Press the hex end onto the hose, making sure the ends do not frey and press the other fitting end onto the hose. Tighten the connections and install the filter onto the hoses as shown.
Now you need to remove the screens and filter from the pump assembly. Plug the fuel lines and remove the fuel pump assembly (see manual for detail, I will post those pages if needed). You need to remove the pressure regulator screen, the fuel filter and the fuel screen from the assembly. To get the fuel screen, you will need to cut the screen from the plastic with a razor.
Replace the pump assembly. You will now need to switch the rail sections on the fuel rail. Switch the right section with the left and rotate it such that the nozzle is pointing down and toward the rear of the bike.
At this point, you may want to check the injector screens. Some people have removed these as well, claiming better fuel flow, but I have left them intact.
Now place the hose-filter between the pump and rail. The short end should attach to the pump and the long end should attach to the rail. Make sure to use FI-type hose clamps. The tape or tubing placed when cutting will help prevent the hose from getting freyed.
Test the line for any leaks by running the pump (ignition in 'on' position) and you should be done.
You can check the filter every 5-10K miles and clean it, but this should be the last filter you ever buy, saving you the $25-50 dealers charge for the OEM paper filter.
One common problem with the 1999 and some 2000 model pumps is copper coming from the pumps themselves and clogging the fuel screens. If you didn't get a recall or missed warrantee service or just want more fuel flow, this is an effective solution. Bike with fuel problems will have a number of symptoms. The bike idle will be rough and will tend to stall as it warms and when opening the throttle and shifting, the bike will suddenly lose power, as if you had just pulled in the clutch among other power-loss symptoms.
I got all the parts I needed for this at Jeg's and Summit Racing.
Here are the part numbers for the three items you will need from Summit:
KNN-81-0040 6AN K&N Fuel Filter
AER-FCM1012 Straight 6AN aluminum hose fitting
EAR-403006 6 AN, 3 ft., braided stainless steel fuel line
They seem to have the filters on backorder, so you might try Jeg's, which seems to have everything but the fuel line.
You will also need to order a packing seal for the fuel pump Part No. 15144-24F00. You should also get two 3/32" wide o-rings, one measuring ID: 1-3/8", OD: 1-9/16" and one measuring ID: 1-9/16", OD: 1-3/4" and a third small o-ring for the pressure regulator (I forget the size, but you can usually reuse this one.
OK, now to the installation:
You will need to cut the fuel line without freying the braid. A Dremel will work with patience, otherwise a band saw or cutoff saw works best. I used a 10" cutoff saw with a metal-cutting blade. You should wrap the section that you will cut with either shrink tubing or tape. Cut one length to 4.5" and another length to 7.5". You should have two lengths of hose with both ends wrapped in tape or tubing. Remove the tape from only one end on each, this will be the end inserted into the fittings.
Dip the ends to be pressed into some fresh motor oil for lubrication. Press the hex end onto the hose, making sure the ends do not frey and press the other fitting end onto the hose. Tighten the connections and install the filter onto the hoses as shown.
Now you need to remove the screens and filter from the pump assembly. Plug the fuel lines and remove the fuel pump assembly (see manual for detail, I will post those pages if needed). You need to remove the pressure regulator screen, the fuel filter and the fuel screen from the assembly. To get the fuel screen, you will need to cut the screen from the plastic with a razor.
Replace the pump assembly. You will now need to switch the rail sections on the fuel rail. Switch the right section with the left and rotate it such that the nozzle is pointing down and toward the rear of the bike.
At this point, you may want to check the injector screens. Some people have removed these as well, claiming better fuel flow, but I have left them intact.
Now place the hose-filter between the pump and rail. The short end should attach to the pump and the long end should attach to the rail. Make sure to use FI-type hose clamps. The tape or tubing placed when cutting will help prevent the hose from getting freyed.
Test the line for any leaks by running the pump (ignition in 'on' position) and you should be done.
You can check the filter every 5-10K miles and clean it, but this should be the last filter you ever buy, saving you the $25-50 dealers charge for the OEM paper filter.
Jester0769, thanks for the help. Been needing to do the mod,before I reeplace the fuel filter. Once again thank you, Busabullet
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