ok thought i was lucky quess not, 99 busa 6900 miles stumbbles now and then. i have tomm0orow off so i was thinking of cleaning the filters , usually good with bikes. i need to know if the pump power needs to be shut off some how or do you just take the key out. has any body done there own pump and petcock and how hard was the job. like to take the bike to the dealerbut you know how that drop the bike off pick it up get a ride make apointment etc sounds like fun.this way i figure have indone by tommorow afternoon my sereal number on my frame is 3689 so my 3 main question are 1st/ some way cut the juice from the pump or do you just take the out key 2/ did you have to pull the tank i found the rubber plugs under the passenger seat pretty cool 3/see you would have to be careful with the wrapping around the pump not to tear the insulastion 4/ pump hard to take apart seems like you have to makesure you don t mess up the o ring 5/ any good tips . any help would be great
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fuel pump
- Thread starter OB_rchh
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Meta tagsOB_RobBase
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Todd, I'd like to add to your post.
The insulation has to be cut off with a sharp knife. If you cut it starting at the fuel hoses lengthwise you can slip the foam off and put it back when you're done after which you just put 2 zip ties around it so the pump is always accessible.
My 99 started to cut out also so the first thing I thought was to clean the fuel filters. Me too, everything was spotless except for the tiny 1/4" screen between the fuel pump housing and the pressure regulator. Well I cleaned it and put it back together. Then took it for a test ride. More cut outs and finally after the engine died (close to home, thank goodness) I tried to start it but when I turn the key now, I got no fuel pump priming noise. After I got home I started checking connectors and voltages.
I found that I am getting no voltage from the ECM to the fuel pump relay. I believe that the ECM is bad and that it started to go bad by losing/cutting voltage to the fuel pump relay resulting in fuel starvation. (feels just like a filter clogging) Luckily I still am under warranty so it goes to the dealer this weekend. A new ECM is about $600, I think, so let Suzuki pay.
I still love this bike and it's performance, but I miss the simplicity of my oil/air cooled, non-computerized, non-sensored, 89 GSXR1100.
The insulation has to be cut off with a sharp knife. If you cut it starting at the fuel hoses lengthwise you can slip the foam off and put it back when you're done after which you just put 2 zip ties around it so the pump is always accessible.
My 99 started to cut out also so the first thing I thought was to clean the fuel filters. Me too, everything was spotless except for the tiny 1/4" screen between the fuel pump housing and the pressure regulator. Well I cleaned it and put it back together. Then took it for a test ride. More cut outs and finally after the engine died (close to home, thank goodness) I tried to start it but when I turn the key now, I got no fuel pump priming noise. After I got home I started checking connectors and voltages.
I found that I am getting no voltage from the ECM to the fuel pump relay. I believe that the ECM is bad and that it started to go bad by losing/cutting voltage to the fuel pump relay resulting in fuel starvation. (feels just like a filter clogging) Luckily I still am under warranty so it goes to the dealer this weekend. A new ECM is about $600, I think, so let Suzuki pay.
I still love this bike and it's performance, but I miss the simplicity of my oil/air cooled, non-computerized, non-sensored, 89 GSXR1100.
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
If you do not have the instuction I would advise agaist doing it.Do have the new parts to put in?
By doing it your self Suzuki will never no of the problem making it worse for everyone else due to the line would be never heard of that before.
If you still want to do it always disconnect the negitive side of the battery.
By doing it your self Suzuki will never no of the problem making it worse for everyone else due to the line would be never heard of that before.
If you still want to do it always disconnect the negitive side of the battery.
G
Guest
I am now in the process of checking my filters. I brought my fuel pump and
fuel pressure regulator to work with me today! The building superintendent is a good friend of mine (HD guy) and has access to lots of good tools. A little background: Never any problems with my 99 Busa - nearly 6000 miles when I traded it in on my 00'. Now at 3400 miles my 00' just recently started dying - hard to start. It just started a few days ago - doesn't happen every ride. Also - my battery is nearly kaput due to being badly drained after leaving my V1 remote audio box on back in January. Last night was the final straw after I had to call my wife for a jump after my 00' died and ran out of battery cranking power. I'm ordering a battery right now. Finally made it home - died several times but I always got it going again. As usual a few miles before reaching home I hammer it pretty good and the bike seems to run just fine. I was thinking the same thing as you - must be the filters. Last night I was pissed off enough to do something about it. I pulled the pump and regulator. I tried to preserve the insulator covering but it has to be removed in order to get a wrench on all 4 bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. There is just no way that I can see to keep from tearing it in order to remove it. I thought I could see a seam on the insulation underside but it wasn't. After a little research I have decided to follow Motorhead's lead and use thermoteck insulation. I happen to have some I use on my turbo car and it should work even better than the sponge. The short fuel line that connects the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail has factory clamps that I couldn't remove without destroying. They are permanent band clamps. I cut the one at the rail side - will replace with worm drive. The pump can be easily disconnected electrically as a first step. Just unplug the small harness connector at the pump itself. Then loosen the fuel pressure regulator relief screw and watch the gas flow. (This according to the Service Manual is the 1st step) Better to drain/plug the lines coming from the tank and fuel pump first. Then remove the fuel line connections from the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Remove the single vac line feeding the fuel pressure regulator. Then remove the 4 screws holding the fuel pump the the attached gold fuel pump bracket. Then lift the assembly (fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator) out.
Next comes the really fun part. There are two large phillips head screws holding the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel pump assembly and 4 smaller phillips head screws hold the fuel pump case together. All of these have to be removed in order to get to the two filters within. These screws will NOT come out with a regular ol' screwdriver by hand. DON'T EVEN TRY. That's why I brought the assembly to work today so we could use an impact driver to remove these screws. IT WORKED! We thought they must have used loctite but didn't see any loctite residue on the screws. It appears they just torqued the holy crap out of them. Anyway - my filters are not only clean - but they are SPOTLESS! All that for nothing except how else do you know without looking?! O-rings everywhere - don't lose them. Use thin film of oil when reinstalling. Tonight I'll reinstall with thermoteck blanket instead of stock sponge insulation. Now I need to replace battery and maybe take a look at my PC2? Plugs? Something is causing this - but not the filters. I'm sure others can add a lot more since some have done this more than once but this was my experience last night and today.
[This message has been edited by Todd (edited 10 May 2000).]
fuel pressure regulator to work with me today! The building superintendent is a good friend of mine (HD guy) and has access to lots of good tools. A little background: Never any problems with my 99 Busa - nearly 6000 miles when I traded it in on my 00'. Now at 3400 miles my 00' just recently started dying - hard to start. It just started a few days ago - doesn't happen every ride. Also - my battery is nearly kaput due to being badly drained after leaving my V1 remote audio box on back in January. Last night was the final straw after I had to call my wife for a jump after my 00' died and ran out of battery cranking power. I'm ordering a battery right now. Finally made it home - died several times but I always got it going again. As usual a few miles before reaching home I hammer it pretty good and the bike seems to run just fine. I was thinking the same thing as you - must be the filters. Last night I was pissed off enough to do something about it. I pulled the pump and regulator. I tried to preserve the insulator covering but it has to be removed in order to get a wrench on all 4 bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. There is just no way that I can see to keep from tearing it in order to remove it. I thought I could see a seam on the insulation underside but it wasn't. After a little research I have decided to follow Motorhead's lead and use thermoteck insulation. I happen to have some I use on my turbo car and it should work even better than the sponge. The short fuel line that connects the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail has factory clamps that I couldn't remove without destroying. They are permanent band clamps. I cut the one at the rail side - will replace with worm drive. The pump can be easily disconnected electrically as a first step. Just unplug the small harness connector at the pump itself. Then loosen the fuel pressure regulator relief screw and watch the gas flow. (This according to the Service Manual is the 1st step) Better to drain/plug the lines coming from the tank and fuel pump first. Then remove the fuel line connections from the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Remove the single vac line feeding the fuel pressure regulator. Then remove the 4 screws holding the fuel pump the the attached gold fuel pump bracket. Then lift the assembly (fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator) out.
Next comes the really fun part. There are two large phillips head screws holding the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel pump assembly and 4 smaller phillips head screws hold the fuel pump case together. All of these have to be removed in order to get to the two filters within. These screws will NOT come out with a regular ol' screwdriver by hand. DON'T EVEN TRY. That's why I brought the assembly to work today so we could use an impact driver to remove these screws. IT WORKED! We thought they must have used loctite but didn't see any loctite residue on the screws. It appears they just torqued the holy crap out of them. Anyway - my filters are not only clean - but they are SPOTLESS! All that for nothing except how else do you know without looking?! O-rings everywhere - don't lose them. Use thin film of oil when reinstalling. Tonight I'll reinstall with thermoteck blanket instead of stock sponge insulation. Now I need to replace battery and maybe take a look at my PC2? Plugs? Something is causing this - but not the filters. I'm sure others can add a lot more since some have done this more than once but this was my experience last night and today.
[This message has been edited by Todd (edited 10 May 2000).]
G
Guest
I hope they are able to take care of you Rob.
I put everything back together this evening and took a couple of laps around the block. No problem at all. All the filters were fine. I put the battery on a charger beforehand so it was charged up. Ordered a new one from Jim today - appreciated the discount! List was around $85. I'll try not to stray far from home until the new battery gets here and see if that makes a difference.
Headlight dims at idle compared to 2000+ rpm. Higher than stock wattage lowbeam on only but I don't remember it doing that before the "big drain" back in January. Reminds me of one my cars with an underdrive pulley at stoplights. I should also check connections and make sure the last bike wash (last week) didn't cause some problems. Let us know what turns up on your bike in case I happen to be experiencing the same problem.
I put everything back together this evening and took a couple of laps around the block. No problem at all. All the filters were fine. I put the battery on a charger beforehand so it was charged up. Ordered a new one from Jim today - appreciated the discount! List was around $85. I'll try not to stray far from home until the new battery gets here and see if that makes a difference.
Headlight dims at idle compared to 2000+ rpm. Higher than stock wattage lowbeam on only but I don't remember it doing that before the "big drain" back in January. Reminds me of one my cars with an underdrive pulley at stoplights. I should also check connections and make sure the last bike wash (last week) didn't cause some problems. Let us know what turns up on your bike in case I happen to be experiencing the same problem.
G
Guest
I should mention - JC has a good solution and if there was a Suzuki dealer closer than 70 miles away I would have just taken it to them and had it fixed under warranty. But if the bike wasn't dying when (if) I got there they would probably just scratch their heads and look at me. If I could get it to Austin easily I would let JC have a go in a second.
jc glad i rebuilt the pump myself, went one dealer he did nt even now there were 3 filters. mine freind went there they did his recall.
ast time i talked will him the bike acting up again. had fun doing the job been working bikes since i was about 12 what thing i learn over the years nobody can take the working on your bike like you can been i have see mech that are top knotch. heres te low down 1/ small screen thumble size of 3/8 round in size 75% clogged 2/ paper filter petty dirty say 50% cleanen but filters with carb cleaner 3/ on the other side of pump after you un hook the wires remove the metal clip and then the rubber gasket heres will care comes in used needle dose pliers therir pull the long tank out you see rubber hollow plastic reatiner were the metal tank went will the needle nose pliers work around little at a time little tought but take your time it should come out under there is a round screen i say 75% clogged sprayed it will te carb cleaner job done. if the roads dry up in ny go for test drive bike should run much better let you all now. later
ast time i talked will him the bike acting up again. had fun doing the job been working bikes since i was about 12 what thing i learn over the years nobody can take the working on your bike like you can been i have see mech that are top knotch. heres te low down 1/ small screen thumble size of 3/8 round in size 75% clogged 2/ paper filter petty dirty say 50% cleanen but filters with carb cleaner 3/ on the other side of pump after you un hook the wires remove the metal clip and then the rubber gasket heres will care comes in used needle dose pliers therir pull the long tank out you see rubber hollow plastic reatiner were the metal tank went will the needle nose pliers work around little at a time little tought but take your time it should come out under there is a round screen i say 75% clogged sprayed it will te carb cleaner job done. if the roads dry up in ny go for test drive bike should run much better let you all now. later
OB_RobBase
Registered
I'll let you know what happens Todd. It goes to the dealer this weekend.
I was wondering. With fuel injection, computers, etc., if the battery on our bikes was to die, would it or would it not be possible to run & jump start the motorcycle?
I was wondering. With fuel injection, computers, etc., if the battery on our bikes was to die, would it or would it not be possible to run & jump start the motorcycle?
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
Most likely not due to you need fuel pressure in the line before fire.
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