Fuel pump
- Thread starter HAYA0163
- Start date
don't do it unless you ABSOLUTELY have to... You only will have to with big bore, turbo, or maybe NOS. (With a 40 shot you could stick with stock fuel system.)
The external stuff is a pain in the ass and vapor lock is a common issue and hard to fix. (I have been messing with mine quit sometime to work out the vapor lock issues and since I am at a higher altitude, I think I am just going to have to deal with it occassionally anyway.)
Cloud
The external stuff is a pain in the ass and vapor lock is a common issue and hard to fix. (I have been messing with mine quit sometime to work out the vapor lock issues and since I am at a higher altitude, I think I am just going to have to deal with it occassionally anyway.)
Cloud
That is my point exactly... the hard starting from heat is the vapor locking issues...(HAYA0163 @ May 16 2007,17) I have problems with my stock external (2000model) thats why.I have put a new pump and now its about 4000khm the presure is 2.5 and when its hot ia have starting problems.Which external do u use?
Thanks
I have the bosch fuel pump which runs about $300.
Maybe you could swap your external for an internal pump. If you can swap over to internal, things would be good...
Heat transfer to pump from engine case and other fittings and filters is what causes the vapor lock. Make sure all your lines and such are away from heat and wrapping the pump and such in heat wrap helps.
if you do it right you wont have vapor lock issues... I've never had this problem and w setup m buddies bike the same way and also no lock issues...
I use a walboro 255 pump while he's using the bosch 044. Both work well and neither has failed ever.
I use a walboro 255 pump while he's using the bosch 044. Both work well and neither has failed ever.
I'll have to snap some pictures... this is a crummy one
I even run a nice big filter as well... Are you just looking at replacing the oe external fuel pump? Are you running a tubo system? if so which one? Are you N.A.?
Ken my Busa is totally stock cept a full Yosh and pcIII usb.. I have a 255 pump laying in the garage not being used.. How can I do this mod? Do I use stock regulator or after market, leave stock pump on and wire in a series or take off stock pump..
Said Busa is used for sport touring, need it dependable not something that I have to worry about starting every time I stop.. Any help on this mod would be great..
Said Busa is used for sport touring, need it dependable not something that I have to worry about starting every time I stop.. Any help on this mod would be great..
I 'm kinda curious why you're having vapor lock issues with an OE setup. Could it be something else??
Here's what I did with mine.
stage one, I tried an internal 255 pump. It can be mounted in the stock loaction with just minor grinding/cutting of the plastic retainer strap for clearance.
The only down side is that anytime you're below half a tank of gas the pump begins to run hot. (not enough cooling). It won't burn out but it'll really heat things up. I'm sure for cars with a 12+ gallon tank this isn't as big of an issue. For me, I wasn't happy. I think the internal pumps just throw off to much heat.
stage two, is going to an external fuel pump setup. Some thought has to go into this a nd some decisions have to be made.
You'll need an external pump (your 255 works great), a fuel presure regulator, a small fuel psi gauge (which can be removed after you've set the fuel psi), and another connector tube for your fuel rail. You'll also need FI rated fuel hose and some fittings.
The next thing is to decide if you're going to drill the stock sump and instal a bulkhead fitting or if you're going to go with an aftermarket plate.
The bulkhead fitting should be a -6 AN or so size. and you'll have to do some cutting/grinding to the plastic resevoir that covers the stock pickup tube inside the tank for clearance.
If you go to an aftermarket plate you'll loose the ability to capture fuel level.
Also you may want to consider a fuel filter. The OE one isn't anything to write home about and some people run wwithout any filter but for me I purchased a pre-pump filter. It doesn't filter down to the finest microns but is alot better than no filter at all.
To gain more clearance you'll want to replace the OE oil breather cover with an aftermarket one (I rcommend the billet one from RPM because it retains the baffles like the OE one).
With all of this done now comes the fun part of determiining where you'll locate the pump, reg., and perhaps a filter. Here's some advice on location.
The pump should always be mounted lower than the fuel tank.
Mount it in a position which allows the shortest lines with the least amount of bends.
Always take into account that the tank must be raised/lowered and will require extra length fuel lines.
Always check the lines that they're not pinching anywhere.
If you want more details it would be easier to give me a ring on the tele. Just PM me and we can chat more.
Realize that I honestly don't think you need to do all of this with an OE engine. I think you're current issues need to be examined more.
there are lots of quality filters out there. Some guys even use a regular FI filter from a small car.
I have one from Aeromotive. What I like is that it doesn't restrict flow or change pressure. Also it uses a stainless steel screen so it can be inspected/cleaned and reused. Aeromotive makes top quality products but you pay throgh the nose for 'em.
I but alot of my parts from Summit Racing they're prices are very resonable (if not one of the lowest priced) and they ship goods fast. Their return process is also very easy. They're not geared for motorcycles but any products that are more universal they probably have.
I have one from Aeromotive. What I like is that it doesn't restrict flow or change pressure. Also it uses a stainless steel screen so it can be inspected/cleaned and reused. Aeromotive makes top quality products but you pay throgh the nose for 'em.
I but alot of my parts from Summit Racing they're prices are very resonable (if not one of the lowest priced) and they ship goods fast. Their return process is also very easy. They're not geared for motorcycles but any products that are more universal they probably have.
I think alot plays into the lines you run and their lengths. Yea, I'll take some pics and post 'em up.
Are you still using the stock plate on the fuel tank? You turbo guys have it easier with more room to play with. Which fuel reg. are you running? the Begi?
Are you still using the stock plate on the fuel tank? You turbo guys have it easier with more room to play with. Which fuel reg. are you running? the Begi?
Yup stock plate with a hole drilled through it and SX Performance regulator. I have the regulator mounted in front of the plenum and I know that the return lines are fine. It seems to be the line to the fuel pump that is causing me issues. I am using 1 90 degree fitting which changes 3/8 to 1/2 into the fuel pump. You think the tight turn in the 90 could be the problem?
Cloud
nope not the 90 even if it were a hard and tight 90 I don't think that's the problem.
Do you have anything insulating the pump? Does it just sit on the floor of the case?
I tried mounting it on the breather with a couple of beer cozies, but it was much worse with this setup then it was with the pump mounted to the plenum strape on the right. I have it laying down against the strap in some beer cozies. I didn't insulte the fuel filter or lines, do you think that could be it?
fastphil73
Registered
Why not just buy a newer tank and pump assembly. I did it and have had no problems. Wiring is different but using plug from old pump and gas hand I spliced wires to new tank and plugged into old wiring harness. The only thing left is the fuel line. I relocated the fitting on the fuel rail to the other side (just pops apart and back together) and made sure it would not kink. Should not take more than a few hours work and some paint.
