Gaining more grunt?

[Fastmax32168]

There is a lot of information here about creating larger HP numbers, but lets face it, if your bike is a street bike (like mine) at high RPM you can barely get the thing out of second gear without risking your license for the duration. But you can never have too much "grunt" in a motorcycle.
I am wondering about a plan to create a powerband with more low end and midrange, I dont really care if it loses a HP or two up top. I was thinking of cleaning up the head just a bit and re-timing the cams.
I was also considering going to a big bore with stock internals besides the pistons themselves, (that should be a real torque monster) but was looking at alternatives other than this radical surgery.
Has anyone worked at this before? Ignition timing changes? Cam timing recommendations? Other suggestions?
Thanks
Roy

 

[STevoVIII]

why? my bike doesn't hook in the first 3 gears from 5k on whilst riding on the street.

if you want to turn a bike into a tractor pull tho, do some research into degreeing the cams, and lowering the compression a bit. also, going to a larger valve may help lower your torque curve. Gearing will do a lot for you as well. I noticed a lot more grunt in lower gears with my tre, adding timing helped, but if you want to change the overall dynamics of hte motor, i suggest looking into what i've mentioned. I dont think a stroker is necessary.

 

[jdsbusa]

why? my bike doesn't hook in the first 3 gears from 5k on whilst riding on the street.

if you want to turn a bike into a tractor pull tho, do some research into degreeing the cams, and lowering the compression a bit. also, going to a larger valve may help lower your torque curve. Gearing will do a lot for you as well. I noticed a lot more grunt in lower gears with my tre, adding timing helped, but if you want to change the overall dynamics of hte motor, i suggest looking into what i've mentioned. I dont think a stroker is necessary.

If your bike isn't hooking in 2nd or 3rd gear....or even 1st for that matter above 5k then you've either got a monster stretch or tire issues. A 5k rpm throttle snap gets me looking at the sky real quick in 1st, 2nd just takes off like a bullet at 5k and 3rd at 5k chugs for just a second til full spool then "wheeeeee!"

 

[BATTMAN]

Change the rear sprocket. That will give you all the low end grunt your need.

 

[GPW]

Change the rear sprocket. That will give you all the low end grunt your need.

16/43 for grunt!

 

[2busa]

I'm thinking, Go Max! You are building a stumpuller, but then radical reality set in you are stepping away from your own grunt design?

If you want to grunt in the cheap seats, then I would set the tune with:
1. Rear sprocket as suggested ~ 1 part that can be swapped back to stock, where a bore you can't, obviously.
2. Remove said restrictor being the gen1 air flapper or the gen2 flapper in the throttle body.
3. Hold your breath... Tre yep, I said it.

Now, if you want to ride or cruise in the 'smooth' ...

4. The air cleaner can be addressed two ways. One is a racing pleat that can ruin your street bike with all that road grit you see peppered dust on your bike is in that air cleaner too. So you remove the steel plate (if applies) off the stock air filter element and that will smooth out the pulse as you cruise.

When you need the grunt, the removal of the plate, the gear change, the tre moving the grunt lower in the torque setting, the speed change adding grunt with the air cleaner and that is as cheap in the seats you can play with is just a minor move is you had the be$t move$, but I hear ya. Too radical just for the street when you can get there with less and not feel the whole package but enough, rather than what is under you now.

 

[BIG GUY]

Good luck with getting the motor the way you want it!

 

[crawler]

There is a lot of information here about creating larger HP numbers, but lets face it, if your bike is a street bike (like mine) at high RPM you can barely get the thing out of second gear without risking your license for the duration. But you can never have too much "grunt" in a motorcycle.
I am wondering about a plan to create a powerband with more low end and midrange, I dont really care if it loses a HP or two up top. I was thinking of cleaning up the head just a bit and re-timing the cams.
I was also considering going to a big bore with stock internals besides the pistons themselves, (that should be a real torque monster) but was looking at alternatives other than this radical surgery.
Has anyone worked at this before? Ignition timing changes? Cam timing recommendations? Other suggestions?
Thanks
Roy

SO, if you cant get out of second without going to prison-Then logic dictates that the bike has either too many gears, or the wrong gearing. If you want a rocketship to 90-100mph. Swap to a 16 front sprocket and a huge rear sprocket, get an air shifter and auto shift module and let it eat.

Not to be wise, I'm just not seeing the immediate reason to spend major money if you haven't gone down some of the lesser path. Sprockets and airshifter will be part of the end package anyway if you're going for all you can get.

So start there and see if you need the extra grunt. I have a feeling that you'll still be sseing sky at 100 if you gear it that way. The effective torque multiplication you receive from gearing is very noticeable.

I'm always up for more power and extra grunt. Just not seeing the application in the scenario you've laid out.

I applaud you for wanting to do something different. No matter what you do, enjoy it and be safe.

 

[Fastmax32168]

Crawler,
Your response like several others is geared toward obtaining maximum acceleration through the gears. I am well aware of how gearing can change the amount of torque laid down at any given road speed. But gearing does this by increasing the RPM at any given road speed. I am not talking about grunt as related to road speed, I am talking about grunt as related to engine RPM.
The application for my "torque monster" is coming lazily out of a parkway corner and rolling it on in 3rd, and having it pull like a locomotive from 3000 RPM. Rolling it on in high gear and having it rocket around the car in front of you effortlessly. Twisting the throttle in second from low RPM and having the front end immediately rise from the rheostat like power that seems to come on as instantly as you can twist the grip.
The bike already has these characteristics to a degree, but more of it would be nothing but a good thing.
2Busa, Do not give up on me yet, I haven't completely given up my Big bore low RPM monster idea.
Roy

 

[m_ridgeway]

Current Turbo Kits

 

[Speed King]

Get yourself this:

650 HP Hayabusa Ultra Kit

Garrett Twin Entry GT 40R turbo
44mm V-band Tial Wastegate
50mm Tial Blowoff Valve
3" Stainless Steel Race Dump-pipe
Twin Entry Stainless Steel Header and Flanges
Braided Oil Feed Line with Fittings
Oil Return Line and Fittings
New In-line Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Lines
Billet Aluminum Airbox/Intercooler and Secondary Injectors
Heat Exchanger & Electric Waterpump
Fuel Controller with 40psi Internal Map Sensor
Oil Block Off Plates
Heavy Duty Clutch Springs
Adjustable Intake Cam Sprocket
Cam Chain Tensioner Spacer
Head Gasket and Base Spacer
Crancase Vent Filter
Boost Gauge
High Flow Airfilter
Vacuum lines, Hoses, Clamps, & Fittings (Prelabeled)


This is the ultimate street/strip kit, the liq/air intercooler on this kit will allow you to safely run up to 380hp on pump fuel, and with the right engine components it will make 650hp on race fuel. If you are looking for the ultimate turbo kit, this is it!

 

[STevoVIII]

If your bike isn't hooking in 2nd or 3rd gear....or even 1st for that matter above 5k then you've either got a monster stretch or tire issues. A 5k rpm throttle snap gets me looking at the sky real quick in 1st, 2nd just takes off like a bullet at 5k and 3rd at 5k chugs for just a second til full spool then "wheeeeee!"

I'm only 4 over. it's a crappy tire with extra power and geared for the track. bad combo, but it's fun when you get that skating feeling haha.

 

[flbusarider]

hey speed, what does that kit run? is that one you have put together? and are you running this on yours now? what r u running anyway......

 

[gastoys]

This is one area that was a bit of a disappointment for me in the Busa as the low end torque band does not match the hype. My ZZR1200 had gobs of low end and I was never having to down shift to find that low end power band. The Busa hooks up after 4k, but anything below that might as well be a Honda scooter! I love the Busa and she is amazingly fast and fun after 5k, but would be nice if there was more low end at lower rpms.

 

[Speed King]

hey speed, what does that kit run? is that one you have put together? and are you running this on yours now? what r u running anyway......

2008 650HP Hayabusa Super Ultra Kit $13 000.00

 

[Speed King]

hey speed, what does that kit run? is that one you have put together? and are you running this on yours now? what r u running anyway......

I don't, too expensive.

 

[Fastmax32168]

This is one area that was a bit of a disappointment for me in the Busa as the low end torque band does not match the hype. My ZZR1200 had gobs of low end and I was never having to down shift to find that low end power band. The Busa hooks up after 4k, but anything below that might as well be a Honda scooter! I love the Busa and she is amazingly fast and fun after 5k, but would be nice if there was more low end at lower rpms.

Ahhhh....I am not alone.....
Roy

 

[Spkrdctr]

Crawler,
Your response like several others is geared toward obtaining maximum acceleration through the gears. I am well aware of how gearing can change the amount of torque laid down at any given road speed. But gearing does this by increasing the RPM at any given road speed. I am not talking about grunt as related to road speed, I am talking about grunt as related to engine RPM.
The application for my "torque monster" is coming lazily out of a parkway corner and rolling it on in 3rd, and having it pull like a locomotive from 3000 RPM. Rolling it on in high gear and having it rocket around the car in front of you effortlessly. Twisting the throttle in second from low RPM and having the front end immediately rise from the rheostat like power that seems to come on as instantly as you can twist the grip.
The bike already has these characteristics to a degree, but more of it would be nothing but a good thing.
2Busa, Do not give up on me yet, I haven't completely given up my Big bore low RPM monster idea.
Roy

Your describing a sprocket change to a T ! It seems you need nothing but new sprockets and chain. Cheap way to get what you want. The only higher rpm you will see is in 6th gear. Not a bad trade off. Gearing commander can show you that you will get a lot of grunt with only around 600rpm higher in 6th gear than normal. Also, the gear change will show a bigger improvement than most any other mod. Good Luck!

 

[crawler]

I misread his first post. He wants a v-twin. all the power down low in the rpms.

I race diesel trucks and unterdtand the relationship of HP/TQ Quite well. I also understand eing able to have a lot of power down low.

My first response was a reply to what you said your situation was. You stated that the bike would get you thrown in jail above 2nd gear and you wanted more usable power. Had you just said you wanted more grunt and not mentioned anything about 3-6 being useless, then i wouldn't have ventured towards gears.

With the 2nd gear comment there, I would lean toward using the gearing of the bike including 3-6th to aid you in your quest.

But, I understand that a big bore stroker is more your taste. Enjoy your new engine.

P.S. be sure and match your gearing to the new engine.