gearing-17/42or43

C.LONG

Registered
ok guys what do you think, i know bout the 16/40 but would like to try something with the rear sprocket will this be too much for the street,willl go to the track every once and a while
 
17/42 is a good ratio, if you want hard accelration... you will looses the tope end speed though
 
C.Long,
I put a 43 on my 03 and really like the change. It works really well in town and in all situations except for all out top speed crap. So it does 175 instead of 186. Do I care? NOT... Very easy on the clutch and won't pull a wheelie unless you want it to. I won't be going back to a 40.
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Bob
 
I've heard some fun things about the 17/43 setup. It's a blast off the block, but loses top end like the others.
 
How is the 17/42/43 on the highway in 6th at 85 or so?  6th feels like it's geared too tall in stock form (17/40).  I was looking to change so I can get the revs up a bit in 6th and make it more useable.  I'm guessing a 43 would be better than 42 in the rear for that?



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I'm at 16/43 and it sucks on the highway. Great for the strip, she hits hard out of the hole, but for everyday use it's too much gear.
 
17/43 or 16/42 are good for general riding. I am willing to sacrifice top end for acceleration. I'm so heavy I gotta have a lot of gear to get going.
 
I am running +1 on the rear sprocket. It makes a big difference at the strip but it only raises my RPM 2.5% so 4000 in 6th becomes 4100 compared to stock gearing. With a 17/43 the RPM is raised 7.5% so 4000 becomes 4300. With Mr Brown's gearing, the RPM's are raised 14.2% so 4000 becomes 4570, and 5000 becomes 5700. I have tried 16/42 already which raised my RPM 11.6% and made 4000 = 4465 and 5000 = 5580. I felt that the 16/42 gears were too short for comfortable open road work out here in the Calif desert and, they also were more gear than I could handle at the strip. I tried a 42T on the back and I liked it, but, it hit the rev limiter about 60' before the end of the 1/4 in 3rd and I was set on running the 1/4 in 3rd gear so I changed to a 41T which hits the rev limited about 60' after the finish line in 3rd.
Riding around with the various gears, I did find out that the Busa is sensitive to RPM's when it comes to gas mileage. At 70 MPH it gets better mileage with the stock gears even if you ride about the same, say on a freeway. The tighter it revs, the more gas it uses.
 
I am running +1 on the rear sprocket.  It makes a big difference at the strip but it only raises my RPM 2.5% so 4000 in 6th becomes 4100 compared to stock gearing.  With a 17/43 the RPM is raised 7.5% so 4000 becomes 4300.  With Mr Brown's gearing, the RPM's are raised 14.2% so 4000 becomes 4570, and 5000 becomes 5700.  I have tried 16/42 already which raised my RPM 11.6% and made 4000 = 4465 and 5000 = 5580.  I felt that the 16/42 gears were too short for comfortable open road work out here in the Calif desert and, they also were more gear than I could handle at the strip.  I tried a 42T on the back and I liked it, but, it hit the rev limiter about 60' before the end of the 1/4 in 3rd and I was set on running the 1/4 in 3rd gear so I changed to a 41T which hits the rev limited about 60' after the finish line in 3rd.  
Riding around with the various gears, I did find out that the Busa is sensitive to RPM's when it comes to gas mileage.  At 70 MPH it gets better mileage with the stock gears even if you ride about the same, say on a freeway.  The tighter it revs, the more gas it uses.
Good info, thanks. I'm not concerned about the drag strip or 1/4 mi times....just want a more useable 6th gear at 85mph or so. It's either going to be 17/42 or 17/43.....just wondering which one would be the better choice?
 
Skater69,
With my 17/43 the rpm at 85 is about 4600. Gets over 30 mpg around town and on long trips close to 40. That's 160 mile range and I'm ready to stop when I get there. To fill up and rest butt and arms. 42 was just not quite enough gear for my weight like Mr. Brown
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. 43 is perfect.
 
Thx, Flrider. I'm probably going to have the speed shop here do the work since they're just awesome at everything they do......they play w/Busa's every day practically. How much are parts alone roughly? Gonna probably get a new 530 chain too.
 
Make sure you get a steel sprocket not an aluminum one. About 35.00 to 40.00 dollars. New chain is over 100.00 I believe. Haven't had to do that yet.
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Skater69,
With my 17/43 the rpm at 85 is about 4600. Gets over 30 mpg around town and on long trips close to 40. That's 160 mile range and I'm ready to stop when I get there. To fill up and rest butt and arms. 42 was just not quite enough gear for my weight like Mr. Brown
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. 43 is perfect.
If you have the stock rear tire, I bet you are running closer to 80 at 4600 with 17/43 than 85. But with the speedo and tach error on these bikes, who knows? Based upon my tach readings, I would think that 17/43 is geared about 17.4/1000 in 6th which would have 85 at almost 4900 RPM.
 
Tetge, you may be right. And Skater69 why replace the chain on a new busa? The stock chain will work just fine with a 42 or 43 rear.
 
If you aren't racing, stock chain is good enough, no need to fix what ain't broke, right? Also IMO an aluminum sprocket is fine, as long as it's from a reputable manufacturer. Mine is from Vortex, I consulted Ryan Schnitz before purchasing and he said he has had no problems on any street bike with them. Unless you are putting down more than 250hp to your wheel, it'll hold up.
 
Thx, Flrider.  I'm probably going to have the speed shop here do the work since they're just awesome at everything they do......they play w/Busa's every day practically.  How much are parts alone roughly?  Gonna probably get a new 530 chain too.
You do not need a new chain if your current chain is OK. It will fit the 41 or 42 and now we know that it will fit a 43 also. Taking off the rear wheel is all that is required to change rear sprockets. Remove the rear brake caliper (12mm socket) and remove the rear axle nut (36mm socket) and the wheel comes right out. You have to loosen the adjusters on both sides (10mm and 12mm open end wrenches). The sprocket is held on by six 14mm nuts. When you take the sprocket holder off the wheel you can marvel at fact that the rubber cush things in the hub are already being derranged and eaten up by the Busa's torque. I have changed the front sprocket twice and the rear sprockets many times in my search for the perfect gears. The rear sprockets cost about $60 shipped and the fronts are $25 shipped, or so. So gears are cheap if you change them yourself. I recommend a SpeedoHealer to correct your speedo if you regear, since I really like mine, especially the top speed recall feature.
If you do not have a torque wrench, this would be a fine time to get one. They are cheap at Harbor Freight and work well enough for changing a tire.
If you do this yourself, you will be prepared to change a tire or fix a flat or even adjust your chain. And you can buy tools with the money you save. A 36mm socket for the rear wheel is a nice thing to have.
It is interesting that Suzuki includes all the tools you need to change a rear tire in the tool kit (you have to be able to adjust your chain) but no 24mm hex to unscrew the front axle. So, you can not change your front tire on the road. Of course, I guess they figure if you blow a front tire you will be dead?
 
If you aren't racing, stock chain is good enough, no need to fix what ain't broke, right? Also IMO an aluminum sprocket is fine, as long as it's from a reputable manufacturer. Mine is from Vortex, I consulted Ryan Schnitz before purchasing and he said he has had no problems on any street bike with them. Unless you are putting down more than 250hp to your wheel, it'll hold up.
With my 60' times, I believe that I qualify as not racing, so I am staying with the stock chain until it stretches too much. When I went back to a 41T from the stock 40T the other day, I noticed that it moved the adjustment two marks forward on the swing arm. I read somewhere that even 1/4 of an inch would make a difference when drag racing. Was someone pulling my leg, or does a 43T gear make the bike want to wheelie more due to a shorter swing arm?
 
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