gearing for 1/8 or 1/4?

I know that the 1/8 mile does not like the stock gearing. I am not an expert drag racer, and only got 7.01 sec at 115 MPH on the 1/8. I expected to get in the low 6 sec range with 1/4 mile times in the high 9s.
 
Thanks frank for the info.
I can't tell what gear my buddy has in the front but there is a 40 on the back. He claims it is stock all the way round. He is also 215 pounds and when he makes a pass it's 116 mph.
 
outcast, i dont want to start a argument. but there is no way your friends bike is stock. not when he runs 6.12's and around 120mph.weighing 215? noooowaaaaay!!
 
I put a 16 tooth on the front (same as any air cooled big Suzuki) and it really woke the bike up and not mods to the chain. Best $40 spent this month
 
outcast: didn't you have a friend that ran a 6.12 in the 1/8th at a 120mph? if he really did this, this is the guy you need to find out about gearing... as a DRAG RACER, i can tell you that there is alot of thing's that come in to play when your trying to find the right combination.like; your whieght,your track,your particular bike's hp output. and so'on.first you need to dyno your bike,find out where your cam's quit building hp.that's going to be your shift point on all gear shifts.if your a light person then on this bike you'll probaly try to set it up at the top of 4th gear.(for the 1/4 mile).set it so when your going through the traps right where your bike quits building power!since your around 200 plus.i'd do a 5th or 6th gear setup.remember what works for one guy might not work for the other. but this info i just gave you, should be very helpful in acomplishing your goals.also each time you make a hp mod,you'll probaly need to make a gear change.depending how much you changed. 3 hp is quite a differance at the track. if your going through the traps at the top of third,one down in the front will put you at the top of fourth.one up in the back will give you around 500 rpm.remember it's very important not to go past were your cam's quit making power! if it stops at 9,750rpm. then shift there!! there's no since going past that since it's not making any power up there.if you what to make power beond that,then you'll have to change your cam timing.which is another thing thats important for your whieght! i could keep going on,but i'll stop.... try some of this info & good luck.....FRANK
 
Frank, since you mentioned it can you tell me what rpm a stock Busa is seeing peak hp? After speaking with you briefly on the chat board and hearing about your mods I thought perhaps you performed some baseline testing before your buildup and could provide some info? TIA.
 
ya! that's cool. also, if you ever put on a air shifter you should set your shift lite, just under that mark where you need to shift. this makes up the time it takes your brain to tell yourself it's time to shift...you could do it like i do and put a auto sift box on and not even worry about it. just turn the thottle and go. this is very important for me since i like to spray in first gear. you need to be concerned about your holeshot,is the bike going to come up,how far do i slide the clutch. not about where the button are.. a air shifter can take a tenth off your time.shiftbox can take about a half a tenth off...these are things you do when you start getting bored,and want new stuff to play with.....frank
 
todd: i dont know where to start? i do want to tell you that if you took 3 STOCK busa's put them on the dyno, you'd get a differant reading from each one of them. it's wierd but each bike has it's own personality. if i remember right my bike showed dropoffs at just under ten grande. 159.5rwh. with a 101ft pds. of torque. on the 4th, 4th gear roll on.
 
Thanks Frank. I understand that not every Busa will be the same but your results would at least indicate that perhaps there's no need for me to wind out to redline when looking for a quick burst of speed. I've been shifting no later than about 10K till now just to be a bit easier on my Busa but your results would indicate that perhaps there is no need to exceed the 10K range anyway due to power/torque dropoff around that point. This could assist in long term longevity and also prevents bouncing off the rev limiter - 1st gear in particular.

[This message has been edited by Todd (edited 26 July 1999).]
 
Frank,

Your expertise is appreciated. I was noting your mention of shifting at what dyno shows as your peak power in gear, etc. Have not dyno'd yet but will. Was riding last night b-4 reading your post and had shifted a few times in the 9,000 range and was "out-of-there"!

What is the difference in air shifter and electric shifter? Simplest to install? Works better for street, etc? Do you just turn the throttle and hold on?
 
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