Gen 1 blowing signals fuse

Bryabusa 69

Registered
My 06 Busa has blown the signals fuse twice now in same day, it blows when I hit 10,000 rpm’s not using turn signals or brake light both times was around 175 mph. Any idea why only while hauling ass?
 
@Bryabusa 69
any insulation error on a positive line

depending on the vibrations etc. it comes to ground and the fuse burns out

top end off and search "open" cable / error (up to the switch at handle bar)
and
tail cover too ;)

head and rear lights are one circuit.

@GIXERHP
prankster :)
Frank, you beat me to it.
As you said, search the wires from lamp to switch for visual damage, insulation bared etc.
 
Thanks to all, for the info, all of my lighting is led’s, no bulbs to pull, but I will trace all the wiring to see if I can find a short or a grounding issue. I was thinking that maybe because it only blows at high speed it might be the voltage regulator sending too many amps and blowing the fuse, but the “short” theory makes more sense. Yay Me! Now I get to strip it down again and go fishing through all the wiring.
 
Thanks to all, for the info, all of my lighting is led’s, no bulbs to pull, but I will trace all the wiring to see if I can find a short or a grounding issue. I was thinking that maybe because it only blows at high speed it might be the voltage regulator sending too many amps and blowing the fuse, but the “short” theory makes more sense. Yay Me! Now I get to strip it down again and go fishing through all the wiring.
Voltage regulators/rectifiers are notorious for going bad, and on the Busas, several recalls over the years too.
Maybe try a new one before chasing gremlins in the harness.
Been there, done that...it's awful.
 
New update, I have been super busy with work and a few cold snaps prevented me from working on my bike. However I noticed the last few times I would start it to keep the battery charged the lights were flickering at idle, if I turned up the idle it would stop, so it seems like the regulator is the culprit. So I replaced the regulator and fixed the flickering, then I replaced the 15amp fuse with a 20amp fuse and took it for a spin. It seemed like everything was back to normal until I got to my normal high speed run & POP just like before it blew when I hit 170, so I had to take the back roads home with no taillights and now it’s sitting in the garage missing the best weather of the year. I went from way excited to utter rejection in about 5 minutes, what a bummer! Guess checking all of the wiring is the only way to get to the bottom of the issues. I do have an aftermarket gear indicator that is fairly new, it’s been on for about 18 months & uses the quick splice clips on the speed sensor wire but it’s the only thing that has changed with the wiring. I do have led strips underneath my fairings but they are hardwired to the battery with an isolated switch so they can’t be the cause especially since they weren’t running when the fuse blows.
I’ll keep posting as I discover more to report. Hopefully my next reply will be a happy one.
 
Take a ohm meter and put one ohm lead on the battery ground and one on the signal light fuse and jiggle the harness, if you have a reading then you have a power wire touching the ground (Frame or engine etc)
 
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