Gen 1 Cutting Injectors when up to Temperature

[DanielHowden]

Hi, I have a Gen1 and it will cut the injectors when warmed up. They won't fire again until cooled down. The F1 light is not on.

Has anyone else had this problem please?

Thanks, Daniel.

 

[sixpack577]

Are you sure that it isn't a fuel pump, regulator, or filter issue?(very common)

welcome to the org

 

[DanielHowden]

Hi SixPack, thanks for your reply.

So I can hear the fuel pump running and if I detach the fuel feed to the injector rail fuel does get pumped out. When you say regulator, are you talking about the reg/rec? Both that and the stator have been changed because if charging issues.

 

[sixpack577]

Hi SixPack, thanks for your reply.

So I can hear the fuel pump running and if I detach the fuel feed to the injector rail fuel does get pumped out. When you say regulator, are you talking about the reg/rec? Both that and the stator have been changed because if charging issues.

No, the fuel pressure regulator

 

[DanielHowden]

Right, Im on that. Thanks

 

[sixpack577]

You can check power at the injector harness too, it would be very unlikely(but possible) to be losing power to the injectors, but your issue is much more likely fuel delivery.
Also, just because the fuel pump primes does not mean that the pump is not clogged up or failing.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Welcome @DanielHowden. As you can see you are in good hands.

Do not be shy in showing us a pic. We like color schemes.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

As @sixpack577 has already said, the fuel pump may well be the issue here, so delivery and pressure need to checked and verified before assuming it's injectors failing. . .
I've never heard of injectors cutting out when warmed up but Ok when cold, I mean,
it is possible, but unlikely, so first port of call is the fuel pump test.
Fuel pressure should be 3 bar (42psi) or thereabouts, and fuel delivery should be 458ml in 30 seconds.
Also, check the fuel pump relay is not faulty and going open circuit when warmed up.
When trying to track down the cause to any given fault on your bike, first break it down to looking at systems as a complete picture, understand how it works as a whole, and then test test test!
Also, a fault may be linked to an electrical driver or a mechanical action within the (fuel) system, one may cause the other so look at it in multi faceted way.

Just my thoughts, let us know how you go . . . Kiwi.

 

[DanielHowden]

Wow, thanks for the replies, I will work through them. I traced the tube from the fuel regulator at the fuel pump housing and the tube wasn't connected to anything. I figured that it should go to the pressure sensor bottom left of the air box. To note, there is a good vacuum from this tube when the engine is running.

After I connected it back up to the pressure sensor on the airbox and it did run rough until it had warmed up a little then ran fine. The bike did still cut out after a good while running at temperature, then cut out as normal. I wonder if the electrical sensor is at fault and if there is a way to test it.

The fuel pump has been replaced with a new 42PSI pump because the old one was shorting out.

Apart from the F1 light coming on, is there any issues with running the bike with the pressure sensor unplugged from the loom?

 

[sixpack577]

Did you check for codes?

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Is your fuel pump external type (‘99-‘00) or in-tank ? (‘01-‘07)
Which year model is your Gen1?

 

[DanielHowden]

Yes, the code is C13 - air pressure sensor but I only get that when I disconnect it from the loom.

Its an external pump 1999 model.

 

[DanielHowden]

Hey guys, any thoughts on this?

 

[Dnyce]

I just gave away a set of throttle bodies with an external pump. I’d say actually check the fuel pump pressure, even a new one can be bad out of the box.

An old clogged filter can also kill a new pump.

Without having the bike in person to see what it’s actually doing, I’d change the fuel filter, test the pump, clean the injectors, change the plugs, in that order.