Gen 1 Help please

mayweather88

Registered
I have a 2005 hayabusa I recently purchased...
Came with a PC5 dat i feel wasnt properly tuned or not tuned at all... I changed the spark plugs and the gaskets thats about it and unplugged the PC5. The ecu was not flashed...

The bike sputters if i try to cruise at 35-40mph sputters to the point I feel like it's going to tear up something. It came woth slip ons that look similar to voodoo slip ons bit I put a oem factory exhaust back on it took it for a ride and same results I had some one look at it took it for a ride and said could be a ecu problem... So i took the flashed ecu off my 2001 hayabusa and rode it still the same issue....
So what could possibly be the problem??? Its also burning hella rich... Its burning to rich... So what is my next step?
 
Welcome, take a moment and introduce yourself....
As far as your issue, what gear/rpm are you talking? Mph doesn't really tell us much. Sputtering how? Backfire, bucking, lugging? And if you can get video of the problem, that will help.
 
Hi, welcome along to the oRg. . .
I have a question for you, are you confident and have all the hand tools necessary to work on fuel systems, electrical systems, and general fault finding skills?
Sure, we can point you in the general direction of where to start looking for a fault like this, but it is very difficult to diagnose a problem based on a loose description over an Internet forum.
So, give us some idea on your skills and experience and we can help if you are up to it.
Otherwise, get it diagnosed by a reputable and EXPERIENCED bike technician who can actually look at it and test things.
I’m being blunt and honest here, please don’t take offence, we are all willing to help, but it really helps if you are up to the work involved in repairing your Hayabusa.
Keep posting, keep us informed, there are lots of helpful people here!!:thumbsup:
 
I have a 2005 hayabusa I recently purchased...
Came with a PC5 dat i feel wasnt properly tuned or not tuned at all... I changed the spark plugs and the gaskets thats about it and unplugged the PC5. The ecu was not flashed...

The bike sputters if i try to cruise at 35-40mph sputters to the point I feel like it's going to tear up something. It came woth slip ons that look similar to voodoo slip ons bit I put a oem factory exhaust back on it took it for a ride and same results I had some one look at it took it for a ride and said could be a ecu problem... So i took the flashed ecu off my 2001 hayabusa and rode it still the same issue....
So what could possibly be the problem??? Its also burning hella rich... Its burning to rich... So what is my next step?
Well Mayweather88 what happened?
 
Welcome, take a moment and introduce yourself....
As far as your issue, what gear/rpm are you talking? Mph doesn't really tell us much. Sputtering how? Backfire, bucking, lugging? And if you can get video of the problem, that will help.
I will make a video.... It back fire when i crank it up if im in 2nd or 3rd and try cruising its as if im playing with the throttle it bucks heavier if I hold it at 35mph or 45 mph I wasnt paying attention to the rpm but tonight I took it out and I noticed it holds steady at 6k rpm at 80mph in 4th gear. No hesitation no bucking no nothing as if the problem dont exist its only at low rpm and low rates of speed unless I bring down the rpm in 3rd gear and I'm going like 55mph I'll begin to feel it bucking again
 
Hi, welcome along to the oRg. . .
I have a question for you, are you confident and have all the hand tools necessary to work on fuel systems, electrical systems, and general fault finding skills?
Sure, we can point you in the general direction of where to start looking for a fault like this, but it is very difficult to diagnose a problem based on a loose description over an Internet forum.
So, give us some idea on your skills and experience and we can help if you are up to it.
Otherwise, get it diagnosed by a reputable and EXPERIENCED bike technician who can actually look at it and test things.
I’m being blunt and honest here, please don’t take offence, we are all willing to help, but it really helps if you are up to the work involved in repairing your Hayabusa.
Keep posting, keep us informed, there are lots of helpful people here!!:thumbsup:
I do have the energy and dedication it takes I took to a few back yard specialist and all I got in response was computer issues not 1 said map sensor or maf sensor I could of take. A shot at cleaning them both or replacing them ... I dont have all the needed tools as far as that goes but I have all the general tools. Im not good at the computer portion of it because it was never broken down to me but once I learn it i got it but I can use any assistance available this rich running is burning my eyes and my pockets on fuel
 
Well Mayweather88 what happened?
ok I took out da pc it still ran rich I even upgraded to the ngk irrlieum plugs check my spelling lol n still running rich i took da pc off my 01 busa n it still runs rich and dat 1 has been flashed so i am clue less to the fact but i never cleaned the map or maf sensors so thats my next step tomorrow
 
I do have the energy and dedication it takes I took to a few back yard specialist and all I got in response was computer issues not 1 said map sensor or maf sensor I could of take. A shot at cleaning them both or replacing them ... I dont have all the needed tools as far as that goes but I have all the general tools. Im not good at the computer portion of it because it was never broken down to me but once I learn it i got it but I can use any assistance available this rich running is burning my eyes and my pockets on fuel
Nice one my friend, you sound motivated!
First off, check the charging rate at the battery terminals, should be 13.5v or more, up to 14.8v max.
Then check the battery cables terminal connections and be sure they are clean and secure.
Ya gotta start at the basics.
You need to get a Gen 1 workshop manual specific to your model.
There are free downloads available thru certain members here.
Test the voltage at the coils connector plugs, also test the coils resistance values with a multimeter on both the primary and secondary windings, all the info on how to do this and the correct values is all in the manual.
Also, check the fuel pressure, it may be out of the range specified, the pressure is regulated by a vacuum operated diaphragm.
There's a few things to check, that'll keep you busy for awhile. :firing:
It is challenging, I know, but also very satisfying when you nail the problem
.
 
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Ok, when you say it's 'running rich', what are you basing that on? Not saying it's not, but what indicates to you that it is?
Going out and buying parts to solve a problem you haven't properly diagnosed yet is wasting money, stop doing that. Save your money and apply it to the solution once you discover the problem.
 
I will make a video.... It back fire when i crank it up if im in 2nd or 3rd and try cruising its as if im playing with the throttle it bucks heavier if I hold it at 35mph or 45 mph I wasnt paying attention to the rpm but tonight I took it out and I noticed it holds steady at 6k rpm at 80mph in 4th gear. No hesitation no bucking no nothing as if the problem dont exist its only at low rpm and low rates of speed unless I bring down the rpm in 3rd gear and I'm going like 55mph I'll begin to feel it bucking again
I can't say for sure but it sounds like the PC5 tune is not right which could be due to the shorty pipe if the seller did it himself trying to compensate by increasing the fuel which did not fix the issue. The motor will not complain at higher RPM because it is being asked to pull while down low it is drowning. The other thought is to see if the injectors are stock and have not been replaced with an overly large set simply because someone got a deal thinking it is okay to run 1000's on a stock street motor. I don't claim to know much but this is where I would start even if that means getting it checked by a local reliable shop which may save $ at this juncture.
 
Ok, when you say it's 'running rich', what are you basing that on? Not saying it's not, but what indicates to you that it is?
Going out and buying parts to solve a problem you haven't properly diagnosed yet is wasting money, stop doing that. Save your money and apply it to the solution once you discover the problem.
Its blowing out a light grey smoke the smoke isnt noticeable unless u paying attentiin to the exhaust tips and you can smell it smells like fuel
 
Its blowing out a light grey smoke the smoke isnt noticeable unless u paying attentiin to the exhaust tips and you can smell it smells like fuel
Reading your plugs is a more reliable way of checking that, if you don't have access to an afr meter. Light color smoke can be condensation, or it can be a sign of a bad head gasket, or a motor running rich.
 
I can't say for sure but it sounds like the PC5 tune is not right which could be due to the shorty pipe if the seller did it himself trying to compensate by increasing the fuel which did not fix the issue. The motor will not complain at higher RPM because it is being asked to pull while down low it is drowning. The other thought is to see if the injectors are stock and have not been replaced with an overly large set simply because someone got a deal thinking it is okay to run 1000's on a stock street motor. I don't claim to know much but this is where I would start even if that means getting it checked by a local reliable shop which may save $ at this juncture.
He disconnected the PC and nothing changed. It's not the PC.
 
Ok guys i took every little notation into consideration.... And this is my out come.
I changed the oem air filter to k&n
I changed the exhuast system over from voodoo slip ons to two brothers racing*I still have the factory header with the cat still attached*
I bought irrilium ngk plugs
And I feel a slight gain in hp but im still running rich.... still smokes a light grey smoke and it burns da eyes and lungs.... It smells as if its burning extra gas... Soooo whats next???
 
What's next?
You take it to a dyno tune shop, that's what you do next.
When it goes on a dyno, the air/fuel ratio is mapped on a graph.
The technician operating the dyno will be able to see exactly what is going on re the 'light grey smoke that burns the eyes and the lungs', the AFR is the window into the tune of the fuel mapping.
 
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