Hello all, I’m a newbie to the forum and Busa world. Couldn’t find a thread that answered my questions. So my plan is to run a 17/43T sprocket setup. My question is can you just replace the rear sprocket alone? Or can I change the sprocket and chain without touching the front because I really don’t wanna tear into the front if at all possible. Also what are the recommendations for a good X-ring chain & rear sprocket. Thanks in advance
Gen 1 Sprocket question
- Thread starter Vader1
- Start date
There's nothing preventing you from just changing out the rear only, but common practice - best practice, really - is to swap out all three components (2 sprockets, 1 chain) same time as these parts "adapt" to each other during wear. Else, older components left in tend to wear down newer components more quickly.
No doubt others will be along to give you brand recommendations for chain & sprocket.
No doubt others will be along to give you brand recommendations for chain & sprocket.
Do you realize that your chain is probably a riveted master link chain? Ever dealt with the removal of one or did you plan on having a shop do the work? I’ve always had mine changed at the same time but I’d at least take a look at the condition of the front sprkt if you only want to swap the rear. Most any name brand rivet link chain with at least 10,000 pounds of tensile strength will do nicely. DID, Diamond, RK and EK come to mind.
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I see this is your first post-welcome.
My 2 cents is this....I'd be tearing into the front sprocket and check on it's condition before going to the lengths of changing out the chain and rear sprocket. If you are going to the bother of changing 2 out of three components, it makes little sense to not go all the way and at least check the front.
How old is the chain and sprockets which are currently on the bike?
My 2 cents is this....I'd be tearing into the front sprocket and check on it's condition before going to the lengths of changing out the chain and rear sprocket. If you are going to the bother of changing 2 out of three components, it makes little sense to not go all the way and at least check the front.
How old is the chain and sprockets which are currently on the bike?
to the Org. Sure you can just change out one component of final drive,but should you,IMO...no. @HayaWakened has nailed it. 
For the extras few bucks why would you not swap the front. Changing the gearing has side effects as I'm sure you know. Your speedometer will be less accurate. Fuel economy will be effected.Top speed loss.All so it pulls a little harder/faster off the line? Are you going to the track? You mentioned you are hesitant to change the front sprog because you don't want the hassle of removing the cover. Who will be doing this work? If they lack the confidence to install a front sprocket I would not let them near my bike.The chain and sprogs will have to be aligned properly. I would re-balance my rear wheel.Its an oportunity for someone that knows what they are doing to inspect wheel bearings,swingarm bearings,cush drive rubbers,brake pads,etc etc,perhaps change the tire if its close to worn.
Front sprockets don't normally "shark fin" as bad as rears do...but I would still want it looked at. I would get an' exellent tech for this job.
Rubb.
Berlin Germany
Registered
at very first - what busa are we talking about? gen1 or gen2 ????
then:
you allways can change the amount of teeth at front and rear sprocket if they are the same size like 530 / 525 .. or so - btw. 530 is standard at the busa
you shouldn´t do that if the rear sprocket´s teeth look like shark´s teeth - then an entire chain set is necessary at all.
only replacing a sprocket it can get damaged again very quick by the old weak chain and your job is for the litterbox.
if you wanna change the ratio you are free in this exept the front sprocket - it is borderd by its size / no of teeth .
more than 19 is not available / possible
look into the net for a chain calculator which will tell you the no of chain links you need (with standard swing arm) according to your ratio.
Dopey
Registered
Just add a bigger sprocket to take up the slack from a worn out chainI know what to do BB ut wait no 1 likes my ideas
SO i'llbe quiet
carry on
Now that's just cruel.....funny but cruel.....Just add a bigger sprocket to take up the slack from a worn out chain
Berlin Germany
Registered
the very best solution !
and if you want your chain to last for 2-3 times longer than 25 000 km use an automatic chain oiler.
what i can recommend is the "Scott Oiler V-System" as like as my brother did with his ´01.
he used the chain and rear sprocket for 104 000 ! km
the front sprocket was to be removed every 30 000 km because its teeht bent backwards what you were able to hear by a klack klack klack when pushing the bike backwards.
the chain hooked into its bent teeth.
Mythos
Registered
Change both. If the rear is worn out, the front most certainly is. A chain and sprocket are expensive so might as well do it all up right. Change them all and they will wear in together nicely without needing to replace the front and go through another wear in. I think changing a chain and rear sprocket is a lot of work especially the first time you do it. Taking off the sprocket cover and breaking that countershaft sprocket isn't that much more work. I put a well padded bar in the rear spoke to hold the wheeel while I break the nut.
I'm doing a sprocket and chain replacement to my busa soon. I plan to put an Exoticycle clutch slave cylinder support on while I'm at it. You can get one from Schnitz. IDK if the sprocket cover cracking is an issue with the Gen1 but it is with the Gen2.
EK ZVX3 is the way to go on a chain. EK Z3D is pretty but it weighs a bit more and I heard it's not as strong as the ZVX3. I think the Z3D is more expensive too. I have one on my ZX-14 but I would have gone with the ZVX3 had I known the Z3D was heavier than the old ZZZ I removed. I'm presuming the ZVX3 weighs about the same as the ZZZ did. The Z3D was an ounce or so heavier and cost more so why? Nice looking chain but I hate to pay more for heavier.
I'm doing a sprocket and chain replacement to my busa soon. I plan to put an Exoticycle clutch slave cylinder support on while I'm at it. You can get one from Schnitz. IDK if the sprocket cover cracking is an issue with the Gen1 but it is with the Gen2.
EK ZVX3 is the way to go on a chain. EK Z3D is pretty but it weighs a bit more and I heard it's not as strong as the ZVX3. I think the Z3D is more expensive too. I have one on my ZX-14 but I would have gone with the ZVX3 had I known the Z3D was heavier than the old ZZZ I removed. I'm presuming the ZVX3 weighs about the same as the ZZZ did. The Z3D was an ounce or so heavier and cost more so why? Nice looking chain but I hate to pay more for heavier.
@Mythos. Mornin' Bro. If 2 chains made by the same company using the same quality steel for the same app. wouldn't you want the heavier one? Wouldn't it stand to reason its heavier because it uses more steel? Isn't that a good thing? I understand you and your weight problem... and understand your chase for the ultimate lightest Busa on the planet,which is way cool I think (but can't I afford such an' endevour)...but don't we all want the strongest chain possible. I'm not sure a final drive chain is the best place to be shaving weight.
We are all sitting on a couple hundred horse (and way more for some) should we even consider using anything but the strongest chain on the market?
I also question manufactures claims of tensil strength. Isn't it a little like dyno results? This guys dyno says yer putting down 200HP...the guy down the street says 210. Who's right? It might be "apples and apples" IDK.
Rubb.
and understand your chase for the ultimate lightest Busa on the planet,which is way cool I think (but can't I afford such an' endevour)...but don't we all want the strongest chain possible. I'm not sure a final drive chain is the best place to be shaving weight.We are all sitting on a couple hundred horse (and way more for some) should we even consider using anything but the strongest chain on the market?
I also question manufactures claims of tensil strength. Isn't it a little like dyno results? This guys dyno says yer putting down 200HP...the guy down the street says 210. Who's right? It might be "apples and apples" IDK.
Rubb.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi For the busa if you go with the Robinson Industries output shaft support you can run a 20 tooth front. It also stops the flexing of the shaft and prevents cracking of the cases. It also helps if you use a stud there instead of a bolt there as I will. So for drag racing and street I will run 18/40 with a 190/50 17 Dunlop drag max, for LSRI will run 20/36 with a Pirelli 200/70/17. I am not sure if they even make that tire yet as I saw it listed for the 2021 Honda CBRR-R-SP Fireblade. If that is not true I will go with a 200/60/17. Or I will use the best at the time I race.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi Rubb. I am running a Titanium chain it has a high tensile strength rating over 1200 lbs but it brakes under the power of the XDA Pro Street bikes. When I race LSR It will not be on a prepared track so I will not launch as hard and same for the street. On My turners bike he went 266 MPH but his rear wheel speed was 310 MPH.@Mythos. Mornin' Bro. If 2 chains made by the same company using the same quality steel for the same app. wouldn't you want the heavier one? Wouldn't it stand to reason its heavier because it uses more steel? Isn't that a good thing? I understand you and your weight problem...
We are all sitting on a couple hundred horse (and way more for some) should we even consider using anything but the strongest chain on the market?
I also question manufactures claims of tensil strength. Isn't it a little like dyno results? This guys dyno says yer putting down 200HP...the guy down the street says 210. Who's right? It might be "apples and apples" IDK.
Rubb.
I guess its not as critical as say when you are launching hard in a drag race.In LSR you can launch as carefully as you want? Is that correct? ...thanks Michael.
Rubb.
Mythos
Registered
@Mythos. Mornin' Bro. If 2 chains made by the same company using the same quality steel for the same app. wouldn't you want the heavier one? Wouldn't it stand to reason its heavier because it uses more steel? Isn't that a good thing? I understand you and your weight problem...
We are all sitting on a couple hundred horse (and way more for some) should we even consider using anything but the strongest chain on the market?
I also question manufactures claims of tensil strength. Isn't it a little like dyno results? This guys dyno says yer putting down 200HP...the guy down the street says 210. Who's right? It might be "apples and apples" IDK.
Rubb.
Mernin, rubb. I would have thought the same thing about "more steel=stronger chain" but I remember from my enquiry here on the org about what the best chain to buy is, the ZVX3 seemed to be favored over the Z3D and the ZVX3 is a little cheaper too.
Anyone Using the New EK 530Z 3D Chain? | Turbo
Just wondering if this is now the best chain to use on high hp turbos?
I have a gold the Z3D on my ZX-14. I like it but I would have preferred the finish to be a darker gold. Looking at c10's videos, his new ZVX3 is a darker, more normal shade of gold. Paying more money for a Z3D mostly for appearance, the color of the gold is a small disappointment.
118 pins x 530 Z3D 5 lb, 13.1 oz.
118 pins x 530 ZZZ 5 lb, 11.9 oz.
116 pins x 530 OEM DID chain (don't know what model), 5 lb, 10.3 oz.
The replacement chains had an additional link which added to the weight. The Z3D is an ounce heavier than the ZZZ. I believe the ZVX3 is going to be almost exactly the same weight as the ZZZ was. We'll find out soon because I'm ordering a ZVX3 for my busa. The OEM chain was a couple ounces lighter but it also had one less link than the others. If you do the math to adjust for the extra link, I think the ZZZ is still a tiny bit heavier than the OEM chain. As you pointed out in one of these threads, that could be the extra weight of a brand new greased chain compared to an old worn chain.
The color of the Z3D doesn't look bad in pics. It's a bit paler in real life, I think.
Thanks for the tip on the Robinson output shaft @michael parris heuberger I have that bookmarked. Maybe when I tear the motor apart someday.
ALMOST as pretty as the Busa ... just sayin'Mernin, rubb. I would have thought the same thing about "more steel=stronger chain" but I remember from my enquiry here on the org about what the best chain to buy is, the ZVX3 seemed to be favored over the Z3D and the ZVX3 is a little cheaper too.
Anyone Using the New EK 530Z 3D Chain? | Turbo
Just wondering if this is now the best chain to use on high hp turbos?www.hayabusa.org
I have a gold the Z3D on my ZX-14. I like it but I would have preferred the finish to be a darker gold. Looking at c10's videos, his new ZVX3 is a darker, more normal shade of gold. Paying more money for a Z3D mostly for appearance, the color of the gold is a small disappointment.
118 pins x 530 Z3D 5 lb, 13.1 oz.
118 pins x 530 ZZZ 5 lb, 11.9 oz.
116 pins x 530 OEM DID chain (don't know what model), 5 lb, 10.3 oz.
The replacement chains had an additional link which added to the weight. The Z3D is an ounce heavier than the ZZZ. I believe the ZVX3 is going to be almost exactly the same weight as the ZZZ was. We'll find out soon because I'm ordering a ZVX3 for my busa. The OEM chain was a couple ounces lighter but it also had one less link than the others. If you do the math to adjust for the extra link, I think the ZZZ is still a tiny bit heavier than the OEM chain. As you pointed out in one of these threads, that could be the extra weight of a brand new greased chain compared to an old worn chain.
The color of the Z3D doesn't look bad in pics. It's a bit paler in real life, I think.
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