Gen 2 rear brake caliper leaking
- Thread starter Sparky405
- Start date
Would only need replacing in extreme circumstances such as rusted seized.
Other than that, fully rebuildable.
Other than that, fully rebuildable.
This may be a really dumb question, but why not just get a used one off eBay. Have it four days, Takes 30 minutes to replace and bleed and done vs all the work you're planning on doing to rebuild the old one. Just why? $25 for a used one & done.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337943218&icep_item=114600078348
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337943218&icep_item=114600078348
Would only need replacing in extreme circumstances such as rusted seized.
Other than that, fully rebuildable
When you strip and rebuild a caliper with OEM parts you then know it’s in new condition. Safe to use, this is brakes 101 lol.
Other than that, fully rebuildable
from a mechanic’s point of view, it’s better to rebuild what you have than buy a used part and ‘slap it on’, not knowing the condition of it... it may be seized, full off dirt, seals may be on their last legs etc etc.
When you strip and rebuild a caliper with OEM parts you then know it’s in new condition. Safe to use, this is brakes 101 lol.
It's not stock I have a aftermarket swingarm and I'm not sure how to get another as far as getting this same one I took measuments it has 4 - 32mm pistons
ottafish
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Ya see, that sort of information should've been in the original post. Saves a heap of wasted time. It's not stock
Let's see...
Extended swing arm.. Who made it?
Rear caliper.. From what bike?
Where is it leaking? Front, back, left, right?
More pictures would help too.
What is the mounting bolt spacing for the caliper to the mount.
Center to center
Vanishing Point
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I look like this R T can help
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Vanishing Point
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TADA , this one
Vanishing Point
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Best of luck, it’s against my religion to touch the rear brake
Berlin Germany
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hi dear
yes
the question is a bit "dumb" 
because the customers (like you here too
) allways ignore, that they would buy a pre-used partwith all the included "dangers",
that this - oh so new beautiful
- caliper might be just as old as the one you already have, what then may include all the possible issues you already have.and
how many damn cheaters sell spare-parts looking like brand new but came out of their scrap-box, simply a bit cleaned outside.
no thanks for that rubbish - in 90 % of all that deals you have to do the same work as if you would fix your old caliper.
best is,
like @Kiwi Rider already wrote
if your caliper isn´t yet really , totally damaged / crashed otherwise, to fix/rebuild the old caliper with new inner pieces like seals at 1st (and only at 2nd new pistons)
or simply only to clean deep the caliper(s) comparable to my recommendation readable here at this page below "Improve front braking".
the caliper rebuild/fix is perfectly described in both busa manuals.
read the manual (and my pages link to see above), follow (both) and you save money.
Last edited:
Berlin Germany
Registered
folks?
you remember that the layout of force distribution at the busa is at maximum 25% in the rear and in the fronts at ~75% ?
so why to invest a huge money for that subordinate / secondary brake part?
it has to work and any kind of leaking is "forbidden" .
that means in my thought, that it has to work properly and sensitively - yes, espacially while fear / emergency braking
but usually only serve to support the front brake
or to (sensitively) slow down just a very little bit,
e.g. at the beginning of a curve to reduce a little more speed than taking away gas / closing throttle(s) alone causes.
and at the brand new gsx-r 1000 for instance this force distribution is around 90-95% front and 10-5% rear.
you remember that the layout of force distribution at the busa is at maximum 25% in the rear and in the fronts at ~75% ?
so why to invest a huge money for that subordinate / secondary brake part?
it has to work and any kind of leaking is "forbidden" .
that means in my thought, that it has to work properly and sensitively - yes, espacially while fear / emergency braking
but usually only serve to support the front brake
or to (sensitively) slow down just a very little bit,
e.g. at the beginning of a curve to reduce a little more speed than taking away gas / closing throttle(s) alone causes.
and at the brand new gsx-r 1000 for instance this force distribution is around 90-95% front and 10-5% rear.
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