Gen 2, street bike only, heads cam package next or?

F

FILT166

Registered
After full bolt ons, what’s next on NA street builds, besides using MR12?
We street race and do a lot of roll racing with high hp cars, digs are dead here.
Looking to stay NA. Not looking to stroke it or up compression.
I was about to drop some coin on an RCC turbo kit but maybe I won’t.
What’s next or who to look into getting a package?
Going to do the work ourself also and then get it tuned after.
Need some solid info and what hp has anyone gotten with heads and cam package?
 
FILT166 said:
After full bolt ons,
what’s next on NA street builds,
besides using MR 12 ?

We street race and do a lot
of roll racing with high hp cars,
digs are dead here .

Looking to stay Naturally Aspirated .

Not looking to stroke it or up compression .

I was about to drop some coin on an R C C turbo kit but maybe I won’t .

What’s next or who to look into getting a package ?

Going to do the work our self also and then get it tuned after .

Need some solid info and what hp has anyone gotten with heads and cam package ?
Click to expand...

 
What is "roll racing" and "digs are dead"? Why not add a small N20 shot? Its cheap, very simple and plenty safe to get 230 HP from a Gen 2 with a small shot and you can do it all in the ECU. You can do that for $500 easy or spend $3500-$4000 on a good head, adjustable cam sprockets and some street cams and try to make 210.
 
Roll racing = Rolling starts in high HP cars usually at 60 mph or higher speeds . They run out to sometimes well over 200 mph from half mile to mile in distance . On the Freeways or back roads .
Many of these cars would destroy themselves trying to leave the line with 1200 hp plus , with drive line parts that only hold 500 to 600 hp at best . Roll racing is usually just a few shifts , and not having to go through the gears . Not sanctioned or legal , and a darn good way to end up in Jail with no bike/car or DEAD .
There wont be one person hanging around if you crash or get stopped by the police .
 
Dooms - Drag racing here on the streets is called dig racing, from a dead stop.

We do a lot of roll racing so no to n2o at this time as a bottle will run out pretty quick.

Jake - N20 isn’t out of the question, just something I’m not into at this moment.
.........I still foot shift and it’s Dyno tuned with a full Brock’s alien head setup only, no power adder.

So is 210 rwhp all a heads and cam package will give you? Like a setup from Carpenter or Lee.
 
FILT166 said:
Dooms - Drag racing here on the streets is called dig racing, from a dead stop.

We do a lot of roll racing so no to n2o at this time as a bottle will run out pretty quick.

Jake - N20 isn’t out of the question, just something I’m not into at this moment.
.........I still foot shift and it’s Dyno tuned with a full Brock’s alien head setup only, no power adder.

So is 210 rwhp all a heads and cam package will give you? Like a setup from Carpenter or Lee.
Click to expand...
Yup some might get a little more that’s why everyone goes forced induction.
 
FILT166 said:
Dooms - Drag racing here on the streets is called dig racing, from a dead stop.

We do a lot of roll racing so no to n2o at this time as a bottle will run out pretty quick.

Jake - N20 isn’t out of the question, just something I’m not into at this moment.
.........I still foot shift and it’s Dyno tuned with a full Brock’s alien head setup only, no power adder.

So is 210 rwhp all a heads and cam package will give you? Like a setup from Carpenter or Lee.
Click to expand...
Hi. The faster you want to the more money you will spend!
 
FILT166 said:
Dooms - Drag racing here on the streets is called dig racing, from a dead stop.

We do a lot of roll racing so....
Click to expand...

Got it, we have a bunch of non riding squids (squirrely kids) around here that want to race from a rolling start, lol. They might as well just say, "I can't ride, wanna race from a 50mph punch?" or they have some ridiculous 18" over swingarm bike that won't hook because it's as long as a bus and has a stock shock with a spring to keep it off the ground. Lots of excuses around here.
 
A lot of high hp cars/trucks won’t from a dig (drag race) cause they can’t hookup. So in that dyno tune did they derestict/flash the ecu??
 
The days of dig racing are just about over all around the streets as roll racing has taken over.
I’ve been drag racing since I was 15yrs old, since we have no drag strip, it’s all about the rolls now.
Times have changed and evolved so you have to go with the flow or drag race solo in the streets.
We do all of this roll racing mostly out the city limits.
Yeah powerhouse and others it seems boost i the best option for top end performance
 
If you are looking for roll on power it is hard to beat at turbo. Guy I know at the CO mile with a Gen I turbo hit the 1/2 mile at 167 and run 237 at the mile. My pretty well built1340 NA Gen II (220 hp MR12) ran 178 at the 1/2 and 204 in the mile. Proof is in the numbers, turbos have the legs.
 
I’d like to be there in September :race:
mjl3truck said:
If you are looking for roll on power it is hard to beat at turbo. Guy I know at the CO mile with a Gen I turbo hit the 1/2 mile at 167 and run 237 at the mile. My pretty well built1340 NA Gen II (220 hp MR12) ran 178 at the 1/2 and 204 in the mile. Proof is in the numbers, turbos have the legs.
Click to expand...
 
mjl3truck said:
If you are looking for roll on power it is hard to beat at turbo. Guy I know at the CO mile with a Gen I turbo hit the 1/2 mile at 167 and run 237 at the mile. My pretty well built1340 NA Gen II (220 hp MR12) ran 178 at the 1/2 and 204 in the mile. Proof is in the numbers, turbos have the legs.
Click to expand...

Impressive comparison.
You gained 26mph in the 2nd half of the mile...and he gained 70, and with taller gearing!
And made an awesome bike look bad.
 
Yeah us N/A guys need to cane 'em pretty hard in the first 1/2 to get any speed out the back. Shane Stubbs on his turbo naked ran 200 in the 1/2 then 248 at the mile so that is close to +50 on a unfaired bike.
For his type of roll on racing I think a hairdryer is hard to beat. If he wanted to go stoplight to stoplight I'd go big N/A with a little nitrous.
 
mjl3truck said:
Yeah us N/A guys need to cane 'em pretty hard in the first 1/2 to get any speed out the back. Shane Stubbs on his turbo naked ran 200 in the 1/2 then 248 at the mile so that is close to +50 on a unfaired bike.
For his type of roll on racing I think a hairdryer is hard to beat. If he wanted to go stoplight to stoplight I'd go big N/A with a little nitrous.
Click to expand...

I know the turbo had to have taller gearing, and launch at a similiar pace to keep traction, but I was suprised that the half mile was so close, with the turbo actually slower(alot of variables, I know).
But then, the 2nd half of the mile is absoloutely incredible. The sheer acceleration from that point is amazing.
Really gives a new perspective to the turbo illiterate like me.
Thanks for posting this!
 
words of advise from someone that loves this stuff and money.
I would do nitrous for now. they make big bottles or run 2x 2.5lbs bottles.
do a wet shot. wet is better imo since you can run you bike on motor tune and if you need extra power hit the button and off you go.
look for a built motor used and buy it. much cheaper then having one built.

I bought my 1397 for 2500 and sold my stocker for 1500.
I do lots of roll racing and have laid the law down in my neck of the woods.


look at my other videos
 
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