Gen II Air box mod - set it straight

[outlawbusa]

Ok, OK ... I know this subject has probably been beat to death, but...now I am a little confused so here's the big question.

I was going through some threads today about the air box mod. We'll some of the links were not working and then I notice most of them are from 2004 era.

Anyway, I thought for sure the air box mod could be done on the 2008-09 Busa's. I printed out the process and getting ready to break down and get er done and then BAM~!~ I look at Brocks web site and found this.


Answer :
You can perform most of the previous Busa mods to the new 08 Busa with a few exceptions. There is no air box mod, and the pair system is different (it only requires a plug on the airbox not the four plates). As for the dry kit we do not recommend it because it is very unforgiving and you will need two maps to run it, one for the primary injectors, and another power commander on the secondary injectors for the spray. You will also need a custom map for this application because we do not have one.

Can anyone say that you have done the mod on the 08?

 

[Got-Busa?]

Which airbox mod are you wanting?

There is no flapper valve in the Gen-II so the old airbox mod that most speak of isn't possible with the new bike. The only airbox mod for the Gen-II is sealing of the ram-air tubes and maybe short velocity stacks. This I have done and recommend but it's a major PITA. A better mod could be designed for the Gen-II but I haven't seen one yet.

Click my sig for pics and info on the airbox mods available for the Gen-II...

 

[GPW]

There is no flapper valve on the GEN II. A simple vacum plug does the job of eliminating the sucking ability of the reed valve, there is no parve valve on the Gen II Busa. If you remove the REED valve it will trigger an FI code.

If you already have a PCIII with larger NOS shots and zero air filter coupled with a high flowing exhaust you may need to channel additional fuel to the secondary injectors (UPPER) with another PCIII.

Some use GSXR1000 velocity stacks which will help mid-range power with proper tuning but top end power may suffer..

 

[stephenm]

I have ordered these air box block off plates from Schnitz

Block Off Plates, Air Injection, Suzuki Hayabusa   Schnitz Motorsports Inc

Am in right in thinking I don't need these? - just a thought after reading this thread.

Thx!

 

[jphilipson]

I have ordered these air box block off plates from Schnitz

Block Off Plates, Air Injection, Suzuki Hayabusa * Schnitz Motorsports Inc

Am in right in thinking I don't need these? - just a thought after reading this thread.

Thx!

You don't "need" to have the whole kit, just blocking the airflow from the box will work. The only thing the block off plates allow you to do is remove the extra components of the pair system and save 4 Lbs or whatever it is.

 

[California Kid]

Hey Greg ,
I thought the short stacks gave you better mid range and better top end compared to the factory velocity stacks .


Bill

 

[Got-Busa?]

Some use GSXR1000 velocity stacks which will help mid-range power with proper tuning but top end power may suffer..

Hey Greg ,
I thought the short stacks gave you better mid range and better top end compared to the factory velocity stacks .


Bill

Bill,

You are correct...

 

[California Kid]

Thanks Josh ,

I thought I was wright . So you won't make it to texas .


Bill

 

[Mythos]

After my tip over a couple months back, I noticed a grommet that the side fairing protrusion plugs into had disappeared from its place in the side of the left ram air tube. This same grommet was missing from both sides of the ram air when I got the bike and I replaced them at that time.


Never found the grommet laying on the driveway where tip-over happened. I'm sure I will find loose grommets rolling around inside the ram air tubes which bugs the heck out of me.... so I will be disassembling the ram air this weekend. Might as well seal the tubes while I'm at it.

Q#1: What exactly needs to be sealed on the ram air tubes and how would I go about sealing them?

Q#2: Can anyone direct me to what page of the service manual details ram air removal? Might be pretty straightforward but I like to see what ever info is provided by the manufacturer when doing any wrenching job for the first time.

 

[Boosa Barry]

I have discussed this topic with some guru freinds of mine and I have come to the conclusion for my Gen 2 busa is to leave all of this crap alone! I'm having a full system Akro put on next week and a K&N air filter, PCV with a Bazazz "Z-bomb TRC" and that is all I need done.

I'm even leaving in my O2 sensor and pair valve, it should help on gas mileage and if I ride in the winter time, I would miss the pair valve function when staring up a cold engine. I think the only advantage would be shedding a speck of dead weight but we must all ask ourselves just how much benefit do you really get by messing around with these stupid little modifications? Extremely minute!
Now I could be wrong about the O2 sensor but there is a place for it on the Akrapovic full racing line exhaust??
But back to air box changes, I would never fool with it, just get a high flow filter for your street bike.

also I think velocity stacks are a joke, not worth the time & energy and confusion it brings. Also having 2 power commanders sounds ridiculous to me.

 

[Mythos]

Awesome fuel module you have there with the TRC. I have the basic Bazzaz Z-Fi. Personally I would get the one with the quickshifter. Very nice shifter and if you add a separate one it will end up costing more than the BAzzaz Fuel management + TRC + QS anyway.

On the topic of tiny weightloss mods, I have shed almost 100 lbs from my 08 ZX-14. Exhaust and wheels were major weight loss but all the tiny stuff adds up to a LOT. If you do it all, it matters. The PAIR removal/block off plates was about a half lb weigh reduction if I recall. Do a search here on the org, I wrote a tutorial with weight documentation .

here found it for ya. PAIR REMOVAL/blockoff plates is a net 12 oz weightloss. Not bad. Do a few more like that and it really will add up.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168731-gen-2-pair-solenoid-reed-cover-removal-block-off-plates.html

"Now I could be wrong about the O2 sensor but there is a place for it on the Akrapovic full racing line exhaust??"
IDK?? My Tsukigi CANNON for my 08 busa had a bung welded into it but that was for the Bazzaz Z-AFM O2 sensor I am putting in. I got rid of the stock O2 sensor. I did not have any codes and I don't recall needing to mod anything to avoid codes. Just unbuckle the stock O2 sensor and plug in the terminator plug that was supplied by Tsukigi.

"get a high flow filter for your street bike."

Have a BMC race. I'm not in favor of running those continually on the street. They are high flow and they are low filter. Not real rliable in construction zones or farmers plowing up field dust etc. JMHO. I would use only OEM except for serious racing. A race air filter will only add 1-2 hp. Never know the dif iunless you are racing competatively. No real need to remap for a race filter, no real significant gain in flow.

"also I think velocity stacks are a joke, not worth the time & energy and confusion it brings."
You may be right but I am still very curious about those nifty little devils.

"Also having 2 power commanders sounds ridiculous to me."
Me2 but that is because we got BAZZAZ which handles all 8 injectors instead of PC which handles only 4....well they say the secondary injectors only come on at WOT anyway.....IDK? I went with Bazzaz because Suzuki has the 8 injectors. My PC5 works great on my 14 for four years. Bazzaz is also a great product. ...except it weighs more than a PC5

 

[Mythos]

....and to return to my original querry...

Q#1: What exactly needs to be sealed on the ram air tubes and how would I go about sealing them?

Q#2: Can anyone direct me to what page of the service manual details ram air removal? Might be pretty straightforward but I like to see what ever info is provided by the manufacturer when doing any wrenching job for the first time.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

After my tip over a couple months back, I noticed a grommet that the side fairing protrusion plugs into had disappeared from its place in the side of the left ram air tube. This same grommet was missing from both sides of the ram air when I got the bike and I replaced them at that time.


Never found the grommet laying on the driveway where tip-over happened. I'm sure I will find loose grommets rolling around inside the ram air tubes which bugs the heck out of me.... so I will be disassembling the ram air this weekend. Might as well seal the tubes while I'm at it.

Q#1: What exactly needs to be sealed on the ram air tubes and how would I go about sealing them?

Q#2: Can anyone direct me to what page of the service manual details ram air removal? Might be pretty straightforward but I like to see what ever info is provided by the manufacturer when doing any wrenching job for the first time.

Click Got Busas sig. It will show his build thread which shows him sealing off the tubes and how.
And yes those grommets are inside forward of your tubes. Mine have been there for four yrs
I've often dreamed of getting them out, cutting off stud on fairing that goes in there and sealing up the holes but I lazed out and didn't. I don't think it would affect it at all as they have just been studs in a large hole with no contact for yrs.

 

[Mythos]

thanks, yep about 1/3 of the way down page 2 of Got Busas link in his signature. I see Schnitz makes some sort of plastic seals that go between the airbox and the tube on each side.

"I've often dreamed of getting them out, cutting off stud on fairing that goes in there and sealing up the holes but I lazed out and didn't."
I may squirt a bead of silicone around the outside of each grommet since they seem prone to getting pushed in.

Now, anyone have any idea where the service manual covers ram air tube removal? I have removed the airbox before but I think the tubes will actually need to come off if I am going to inspect for grommets that have been pushed inside.

 

[cheferman65]

thanks, yep about 1/3 of the way down page 2 of Got Busas link in his signature. I see Schnitz makes some sort of plastic seals that go between the airbox and the tube on each side.

"I've often dreamed of getting them out, cutting off stud on fairing that goes in there and sealing up the holes but I lazed out and didn't."
I may squirt a bead of silicone around the outside of each grommet since they seem prone to getting pushed in.

Now, anyone have any idea where the service manual covers ram air tube removal? I have removed the airbox before but I think the tubes will actually need to come off if I am going to inspect for grommets that have been pushed inside.

It's easy, once the nose has come off it's a matter of a few push pins to remove.

 

[Mythos]

It's easy, once the nose has come off it's a matter of a few push pins to remove.

Thank you Cheferman65. I have the sides off. I've had the nose and dash pieces off a few times too but right now they are on. ...so I did not remember how the rams air tubes were fastened. Sounds like it is so simple maybe it is not even covered in the Gen2 SM? If there are no torque specs, I should no trouble removing or installing the tubes. I will take pics. Love to do write ups and have several unfinished cuz I have been pretty busy this season.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Got-Busa?]

WOW,...back 4-years...

The seal is the opening where the tubes go through the frame and enter the airbox. That's the part you are sealing...

Another area to seal is the ram-air tubes. If you take a flashlight to them in a closet, you will see that it has all kinds of holes and openings from the factory and plenty of air leaks out. If you want, take some sealer and run it along all the seams on the tubes and seal it up nice and good. Re-check with the flashlight later. Or you can do it with air and a low psi compressor, whichever is easier for you...

No need for two PC's and short stacks do work. But whatever, I always recommend you do your own testing and prove your own results. Especially when guys like GPW were putting out so much bad info at the time...

 

[outlawbusa]

Never found the grommet laying on the driveway where tip-over happened. I'm sure I will find loose grommets rolling around inside the ram air tubes which bugs the heck out of me.... so I will be disassembling the ram air this weekend. Might as well seal the tubes while I'm at it.

.

Have you looked in your airbox for the grommets? They are most likely sitting in there waiting for you.

If not you can probably reach up the air tube from the air box side once removed.

 

[Mythos]

WOW,...back 4-years...

The seal is the opening where the tubes go through the frame and enter the airbox. That's the part you are sealing...

Another area to seal is the ram-air tubes. If you take a flashlight to them in a closet, you will see that it has all kinds of holes and openings from the factory and plenty of air leaks out. If you want, take some sealer and run it along all the seams on the tubes and seal it up nice and good. Re-check with the flashlight later. Or you can do it with air and a low psi compressor, whichever is easier for you...

No need for two PC's and short stacks do work. But whatever, I always recommend you do your own testing and prove your own results. Especially when guys like GPW were putting out so much bad info at the time...

Thanks Got-Busa. Old info is still very relevant to those of us who have just barely gotten started with the modding game. If I am going to seal the ram air tubes (I see they fit very loose where they pass through the frame), might as well seal the air tubes themselves. Silicone seems to be a wise choice since it is easy to remove.

I got the nose off this evening and I can see the whole ram air tube. Yes, there is a non-sealed snap-together seam along the whole perimeter of each tube so that one half of each tube may be disassebled from the other half. I imagine there is some reason that one would find it necessary to dissemble the ram air tube halves but it would definitely be the hard way to remove foreign objects.

The SM shows a diagram of the ram air parts on page 9D-18. Also an exploded view including ram air, p 9D-2. To remove the ram air tubes, it is just one bolt on each that holds them in place. Also, two bolts should be removed from the LH ram air tube to take off the fuse box bracket.

 

[Mythos]

Have you looked in your airbox for the grommets? They are most likely sitting in there waiting for you.

If not you can probably reach up the air tube from the air box side once removed.

I will have a look in the airbox but it seems much ,more likely that the mysterious grommets would fall into the low spot of the ram air tube and just stay there. That may be why Suz put that dip in the tube--sort of a trap for any foreign objects that might get past the screen on the front ofthe ram air tube...maybe? .

The easy way to get at that dip in the ram air tube would be to reach in from the air box or to remove the screen from the front of the tube. Either case, you will need some skinny arms and hands to get in there. I don't think I can even do it and my hands are sorta on the smaller side (size 8 Medium glove). ...but I will try and if that does not work, I'll take 'em off and pour out whatever is in there. As mentioned above, unsnapping the halves of each tube would be a lot more work and I do not want to do anything to make that seam fit any loser than it already does.

Sorry for going off topic on this very helpful thread about air box sealing. Really, my topic is air box grommet recovery. I will post further info about that closely related topic on this thread I started quite some time ago.https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/161658-ram-air-grommet-hole.html

I'm sure I will return this thread, Gen2 Air box Mod to address issues specific to air box sealing.

Thanks for all the help, everyone.