genmar risers

lonner

Registered
hi all do these bar risers make much difference ?
ive read a few post's but just wanted to know if it really works on the stiff neck as its a pain in the neck lol

im actually getting more neck arm ache with the busa than my gsxr1000 k1 :banghead:

i dont want to do the renthal bar conversion and the vario's are stupid price so any thoughts on the item below or anything else that works ?

thanks leon

GENMAR SUZUKI HANDLE BAR RISER GSX1300 Hayabusa 99 - 07 | eBay
 
Like i've said before many times, a set of risers (and helibars and buell pegs) will help someone acclimate to the Busa's riding position which takes some seat time. After your body adjusts, I'm of the opinion it doesn't matter nearly as much...
 
The GenMar risers are very nice. Made from solid billet aluminum. They will greatly increase your comfort.

For a good bit less money, you can buy the Soupy's risers
Hayabusa Front Lowering Kit, Hayabusa Handlebar Risers, Hayabusa Comfort
These are plastic with aluminum inserts in the important places.

For a LOT less money, like only $20 USD, you can buy just the aluminum tubes and longer bolts, but I don't much like the look and the fact that the upper handlebar " triple tree" is not well supported like it is with either the GenMar or the Soupy's risers.

The ultimate, of course, is the Helibars solution, which looks super clean, moves the bars up and back a little, plus angles the bars to a more comfortable position. More expensive, but very nice.

I have had both the GenMar riser - big improvement over stock bar position - and the helibars which I now have. The helibars are clearly the best, but the GenMar or Soupy's solution is quite good if you want to save some money.
 
thanks for the replies.:thumbsup:

im 5" 8 so leg position is perfect just the reach but as said i get more pain with the busa than a k1 1000 which is odd as more upright on the busa.

i like the heli option most as not keen on having big holes where the preload adjusters are.

ive recently taken up mountain biking to improve fitness and strengthen my shoulders neck etc so hoping that helps.
 
Does the heli bars and the genmars risers when fixed,your stock length brake steel braided hoses,clutch and throttle must changed?

Due to increase in length perhaps??
 
my opinion, yes! i have had the buell pegs for years which i swear by and recently put on the soupy's 1" risers. i realize these are not the genmar risers but i wanted to make a point that risers will improve the ergo's for a better ride. the difference was night and day. the $96 price tag stung a bit for a piece of aluminum block but i am over it. no more dead hands and VERY little back ache. also, there are no changes to the forward control lines and throttle cable. my bars do not make contact with the windscreen fully extended left or right for piece of mind.

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Does the heli bars and the genmars risers when fixed,your stock length brake steel braided hoses,clutch and throttle must changed?

Due to increase in length perhaps??

Nope, I've had .75" risers and heli-bars on my 08 with stock, and now stock length ss lines. At least 5k or more miles with no issues and enough length, as none of the lines are stretched or in a bind in any position. The master cylinders also just clear the inside of the winsheild.
It's a great improvement over stock too. I've tried them both individually and they work even better together. If you don't like the spacers then get a block like Schsim has posted above.
I'm 5' 10" and flatfoot the bike fine also. I would be alot more comfortable if the bars were just a little closer than they are now too. I can rest my knuckles, fists closed on the handlebars(with risers/heli-bars)and that's a huge improvement in comfirt and position for me personally. So I've decided I'm definately going to switch to the Speigler top clamp and dirtbike style bars(BigE has them and alot of good info about them).
Heli-bars $208, spacers $30, block $100. So roughly $238 to $308.
Speigler, roughly $600 to $700.
That's alot more, but I realize that making the bike fit me personally is what I need to enjoy it. It would cost me more to sell mine and buy a B-King(which I've seriously considered). The Busa is the perfect "does everything well" bike, and it has a huge aftermarket to support it. I've ridden enough bikes over the years to know those bars are what I need, even without trying them yet.
It's all in what you want to spend of course, but I'de deffinately at least do the risers and heli-bars. They will still be a very noticeable improvement even if it turns out they aren't quite as much as you'de have hoped.:beerchug:

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I also have Vortex adjustable rearsets now, as I've had on other bikes. Of course they move the pegs back and up as opposed to the Buell pegs that are lower. Personally the adjustables are more comfortable, and that may sound strange to some people. I like them because with your foot and knee higher you have more ass and thigh on the seat. The seat supports me more, and my knees aren't cramped as there's less pressure on them now. The added clearance is also great in the curves!
I'm not knocking the Buell pegs either as they work great for alot of people. I'm just passing along some of what I've done in the last couple of years getting my bike closer to fitting ME better.
Seats also can make or break a bike, and I've been through a few different ones and made several modifications to each.:beerchug:
 
I have the 1 1/4 inch Genmar risers. As far as control and break line routing I think this is as far as the stock set up will go. I did notice the clutch and brake reservoirs contacted the wind shield at full lock. I just had to tip them forward a little to stop the contact. I didn't notice much change in the numb hands department. The thing that fixed that was using my lower back to hold my self up.

As far as what risers to use be careful of the ones that just use steel spacers with bolts through them. Not only do they look a little cheese but they can present some problems down the road. The thread blames the Canyon Dancer strap system but I think the failure was a result of the upper portion of the triple tree being unsupported.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/151200-so-you-like-canyon-dancers-huh.html
 
. So I've decided I'm definately going to switch to the Speigler top clamp and dirtbike style bars(BigE has them and alot of good info about them).
Heli-bars $208, spacers $30, block $100. So roughly $238 to $308.
d.:beerchug:

Yep - I'm in exactly the same situation as you - 5 10, and my Bus has Helis and 1 inch spacers. If I could just get the bars about an inch closer.....it isn't the height, but the stretch that pisses me off.

So, an ABM kit is on the way.

The Heli/spacer combo is fantastic for the twistes, but a pain in the arse (literally) for the highway drone.
 
I have the 1 1/4 inch Genmar risers. As far as control and break line routing I think this is as far as the stock set up will go. I did notice the clutch and brake reservoirs contacted the wind shield at full lock. I just had to tip them forward a little to stop the contact. I didn't notice much change in the numb hands department. The thing that fixed that was using my lower back to hold my self up.

As far as what risers to use be careful of the ones that just use steel spacers with bolts through them. Not only do they look a little cheese but they can present some problems down the road. The thread blames the Canyon Dancer strap system but I think the failure was a result of the upper portion of the triple tree being unsupported.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/151200-so-you-like-canyon-dancers-huh.html

Not so. When you remove the top clamp that the bars bolt to you will see underneath that there are raised circlular areas in the casting where the bolts go through for added strength. The rest of the top clamp doesn't make any contact with the upper tiple tree, aside from a thin edge all the way around. There is not enough strength in the material in contact around the edge to make any real difference in the part's overall strength. Even without spacers installed you have a large area between the top clamp/bar mount and upper triple tree that never touch.
Now if you want to crank a strap down tight on a thin unsupported piece of cast aluminum(with spacers installed), then you could easily cause a problem.
I myself don't care for the look of the spacers, but there function is great. I had them at 1.5" before having them cut down to .75" so they would clear the windsheild when I added the heli-bars. Over 12k miles of each without any issues, and I ride my bike hard and on some very rough roads.
 
Yep - I'm in exactly the same situation as you - 5 10, and my Bus has Helis and 1 inch spacers. If I could just get the bars about an inch closer.....it isn't the height, but the stretch that pisses me off.

So, an ABM kit is on the way.

The Heli/spacer combo is fantastic for the twistes, but a pain in the arse (literally) for the highway drone.

Yep, it's the stretch to bars that gets me too. I look forward to seeing your setup and hearing what you think. It's gonna take me a couple months before I can afford to buy the bars.
 
Hi,
Looking at the reply's for genmar risers, they seem to work.
My question is at 6ft 3 would a riser at 3/4 of an inch help me or would I be better to go for a 1inch.
Thank you
 
Hi,
Looking at the reply's for genmar risers, they seem to work.
My question is at 6ft 3 would a riser at 3/4 of an inch help me or would I be better to go for a 1inch.
Thank you

for a few quid more just get the heli's:thumbsup:. my bike is just so much better with them and its a better wrist angle too with the heli
 
Hi,
Looking at the reply's for genmar risers, they seem to work.
My question is at 6ft 3 would a riser at 3/4 of an inch help me or would I be better to go for a 1inch.
Thank you

Heli-bars AND .75" risers are great, and the highest you can go with stock lines(see post #8).
 
If you want comfort you need to really think about getting those bars up like a BKing. Maybe 5 inches higher? I have my King bars an inch higher and still could use another 2 inches to get them perfect. There is no hope for me and the pegs though. I need 3 to 4 inches for the legs and there is no way to get it. Oh well!
 
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