Hi all.
Here is a list I've been working on.
I post this here in this forum so I can get feedback for any additions or changes from all the 'busa experts in here.
The initial tools list and break-in proceedure are just my personal thoughts. I broke an older gixxer this way and had a very stout engine that lasted many years enduring redline operation daily.
I also start with ins/reg and mods/changes before ever going to the track as most will begin using the unit as a streetbike.
I will update the list in this first post as suggestions come in. Together we can make this a good list for all to follow on the long journey to real fast no-bar dragrace times.
Thanks.
Hayabusa to Pro Street
Initial
- New Suzuki Hayabusa - GSX1300R Pick best color
- Insurance
- Registration - Licence Plate
- Riding Gear
Helmet - Shoei
Leather Jacket
Leather Pants
Boots
Gloves
Earplugs
- Tools
Metric Socket Set
Metric wrench set
Torque wrenches - 150 foot pound / 250 inch pound
Metric allen set
Engine mount locknut socket
Swingarm locknut socket
Multi-tester
Ratchet tie-downs
Dealer mode select switch - so codes can be read
Bike stand - hydraulic
Carb sync styx
Fork disassembly tools
- initials metal stamp into frame - bottom near sidestand
- Initial setup
Change to reverse shifting
Set lever heights and distances to bars
Set shifter and rear brake heights
Set 6 suspension values
- Break-in
1 - Oil change before first start - 10w-40 petroleum based
2 - First ride - 2 or 3 1/2 throttle bursts to seat rings
- Drive mode selector on C (low power)
3 - To 200 km - less than 4000 rpm and 1/4 throttle
- short rides - keep engine cool - minimum stress
- vary speed as much as possible - bed brakes in easy
4 - To 400 km - less than 5000 rpm and 1/3 throttle - longer rides
- engine to full temp but not hot - parameters applied
regularly - vary speed with no droning
5 - 400 km - Oil and Filter change
6 - To 800 km - less than 7000 rpm and 1/3 throttle - parameters
applied regularly - vary speed
7 - 800 km - Oil and Filter change - Sync throttle valves
- Drive mode selector to B (med. power)
8 - To 1150 km - less than 8000 rpm and 1/2 throttle - use
parameters lots - vary speed some
9 - To 1500 km - less than 10,000 rpm and 3/4 throttle - apply
stress at will - vary speed some
10 - 1500 km - Oil and Filter change to synthetic oil - Sync
throttle valves - Valve clearance check and adj. if nec.
- Do complete 2000 km maintenance list
- Drive mode selector to A (full power)
11 - Over 1500 km - Bike is now fully broke-in
- Full throttle / redline operation must be applied
and at will to finish the break-in proceedure
Never lug engine during or after break-in
No pulling under 3000 rpm and untill temp is off bottom
No hard pulling below 5000 rpm and untill up to full temp
After break in switch to full or semi synthetic 10w-40 oil
Oil and filter changes every 4000 km and/or every spring after break-in
Fluid changes every spring - coolant, brakes/clutch, forks, st. dampener
- Race stand and spools
- Oil temp guage - senser in place of main gallery plug - bracket for guage up
near instrument cluster
- Aftermarket air filter
- Skins change to sticky - after originals used up
- Braided lines
Front brakes - 2 into 1 with double banjo bolt at master cylinder
Rear brakes
Clutch
- Paint all plastic - figure out a scheme
- Flush mount signal lights
- Screens over rad and oil cooler
- metal valve caps for tires
- LED rear tail light
- Rear fender eliminate - small licence plate bracket
- Chain guard - aluminum plate
- Relocate rectifier - bracket under tail
Performance
- Timing Retard Eliminator - removes lower gears timing retard
and top speed limiter
- Power commander / maps
- Header
- PAIR mod
- Airbox mod - flapper remove
- Adjustable cam sprockets - degree cams
- shift kit - heavy shift detent spring
- Kevlar clutch pack
- Steering dampener - adjustable
Dragracing
Early
- remove rear pegs and supports
- Remove headlights, turn signals, horn, etc.
- Drag seat - lower than stock
- Remove header can
- Remove mirrors - make aluminum plates
- Remove kickstand
- tether kill switch - plugs into sidestand switch
- Top triple - allows tubes to slide through - lower 1 inch
- Lowering links - adjustable
- Shorter fork spacers - lower internally 2 inches
- Front fender - cut off back for clearance
- One piece leathers
- Dragrace rear tire - Shinko or Mickey
- Chain / sprockets - gear ratio as nec.
Later
- Air shifter - electric over air
- Shift light - Dyna shift minder
- Racing trailer - camper/toy hauler
- Sidewinder header and megaphone
- Extended swingarm - 6 inches over
- Chain / sprockets - longer chain for extended swingarm - gear ratio as nec.
- Race chainguard - for extended swingarm
- Tranny undercutting
- Clutch - lockup
- Turbo kit - Stage 1
ProStreet
- Extended swingarm - 10 inches over
- Rear shock
- Fork shortening
- Triple trees
- Engine work
Block - 1500 cc
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Studs
Bearings
Head port and polish
Cams - adjustable sprockets - degreed
Valves
Tranny output shaft
High volume oil pump gear
Braided oil and cooler lines
- Turbo kit - Stage 3 - incl. multi-stage boost controller (AMS-1000) - all recommended
options and engine upgrades
- Extended tail section
- Bodywork - for extended tail
- wider rear rim with beadlock - 6.75 inch
- ceramic wheel bearings
- Chain / sprockets - longer chain for longer arm - gear ratio back to stock or higher
Here is a list I've been working on.
I post this here in this forum so I can get feedback for any additions or changes from all the 'busa experts in here.
The initial tools list and break-in proceedure are just my personal thoughts. I broke an older gixxer this way and had a very stout engine that lasted many years enduring redline operation daily.
I also start with ins/reg and mods/changes before ever going to the track as most will begin using the unit as a streetbike.
I will update the list in this first post as suggestions come in. Together we can make this a good list for all to follow on the long journey to real fast no-bar dragrace times.
Thanks.
Hayabusa to Pro Street
Initial
- New Suzuki Hayabusa - GSX1300R Pick best color
- Insurance
- Registration - Licence Plate
- Riding Gear
Helmet - Shoei
Leather Jacket
Leather Pants
Boots
Gloves
Earplugs
- Tools
Metric Socket Set
Metric wrench set
Torque wrenches - 150 foot pound / 250 inch pound
Metric allen set
Engine mount locknut socket
Swingarm locknut socket
Multi-tester
Ratchet tie-downs
Dealer mode select switch - so codes can be read
Bike stand - hydraulic
Carb sync styx
Fork disassembly tools
- initials metal stamp into frame - bottom near sidestand
- Initial setup
Change to reverse shifting
Set lever heights and distances to bars
Set shifter and rear brake heights
Set 6 suspension values
- Break-in
1 - Oil change before first start - 10w-40 petroleum based
2 - First ride - 2 or 3 1/2 throttle bursts to seat rings
- Drive mode selector on C (low power)
3 - To 200 km - less than 4000 rpm and 1/4 throttle
- short rides - keep engine cool - minimum stress
- vary speed as much as possible - bed brakes in easy
4 - To 400 km - less than 5000 rpm and 1/3 throttle - longer rides
- engine to full temp but not hot - parameters applied
regularly - vary speed with no droning
5 - 400 km - Oil and Filter change
6 - To 800 km - less than 7000 rpm and 1/3 throttle - parameters
applied regularly - vary speed
7 - 800 km - Oil and Filter change - Sync throttle valves
- Drive mode selector to B (med. power)
8 - To 1150 km - less than 8000 rpm and 1/2 throttle - use
parameters lots - vary speed some
9 - To 1500 km - less than 10,000 rpm and 3/4 throttle - apply
stress at will - vary speed some
10 - 1500 km - Oil and Filter change to synthetic oil - Sync
throttle valves - Valve clearance check and adj. if nec.
- Do complete 2000 km maintenance list
- Drive mode selector to A (full power)
11 - Over 1500 km - Bike is now fully broke-in
- Full throttle / redline operation must be applied
and at will to finish the break-in proceedure
Never lug engine during or after break-in
No pulling under 3000 rpm and untill temp is off bottom
No hard pulling below 5000 rpm and untill up to full temp
After break in switch to full or semi synthetic 10w-40 oil
Oil and filter changes every 4000 km and/or every spring after break-in
Fluid changes every spring - coolant, brakes/clutch, forks, st. dampener
- Race stand and spools
- Oil temp guage - senser in place of main gallery plug - bracket for guage up
near instrument cluster
- Aftermarket air filter
- Skins change to sticky - after originals used up
- Braided lines
Front brakes - 2 into 1 with double banjo bolt at master cylinder
Rear brakes
Clutch
- Paint all plastic - figure out a scheme
- Flush mount signal lights
- Screens over rad and oil cooler
- metal valve caps for tires
- LED rear tail light
- Rear fender eliminate - small licence plate bracket
- Chain guard - aluminum plate
- Relocate rectifier - bracket under tail
Performance
- Timing Retard Eliminator - removes lower gears timing retard
and top speed limiter
- Power commander / maps
- Header
- PAIR mod
- Airbox mod - flapper remove
- Adjustable cam sprockets - degree cams
- shift kit - heavy shift detent spring
- Kevlar clutch pack
- Steering dampener - adjustable
Dragracing
Early
- remove rear pegs and supports
- Remove headlights, turn signals, horn, etc.
- Drag seat - lower than stock
- Remove header can
- Remove mirrors - make aluminum plates
- Remove kickstand
- tether kill switch - plugs into sidestand switch
- Top triple - allows tubes to slide through - lower 1 inch
- Lowering links - adjustable
- Shorter fork spacers - lower internally 2 inches
- Front fender - cut off back for clearance
- One piece leathers
- Dragrace rear tire - Shinko or Mickey
- Chain / sprockets - gear ratio as nec.
Later
- Air shifter - electric over air
- Shift light - Dyna shift minder
- Racing trailer - camper/toy hauler
- Sidewinder header and megaphone
- Extended swingarm - 6 inches over
- Chain / sprockets - longer chain for extended swingarm - gear ratio as nec.
- Race chainguard - for extended swingarm
- Tranny undercutting
- Clutch - lockup
- Turbo kit - Stage 1
ProStreet
- Extended swingarm - 10 inches over
- Rear shock
- Fork shortening
- Triple trees
- Engine work
Block - 1500 cc
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Studs
Bearings
Head port and polish
Cams - adjustable sprockets - degreed
Valves
Tranny output shaft
High volume oil pump gear
Braided oil and cooler lines
- Turbo kit - Stage 3 - incl. multi-stage boost controller (AMS-1000) - all recommended
options and engine upgrades
- Extended tail section
- Bodywork - for extended tail
- wider rear rim with beadlock - 6.75 inch
- ceramic wheel bearings
- Chain / sprockets - longer chain for longer arm - gear ratio back to stock or higher
