Hayabusa Misfire At Low Rpm

[jsutherman]

Just took my 2012 out of storage the other day and took it for a spin, noticed a consistent miss/hiccup at about 2000-2500 RPM, which only happens when I let the engine slow itself down (if I engage the clutch to drop revs it doesn't happen). Every once in a while it will throw the FI light on and once it killed the motor. The bike is scheduled for maintenance and recall work coming up but it is about an hour away from my residence. Bike runs fine through all rpm range during acceleration, and only hiccups at the previously mentioned rpm range during decel. If I keep it from reaching that low of an rpm, it runs perfect. Any thoughts on what it could be or if I am cool to drive it at all if I avoid the low rpm? Daily driver is currently being repaired from and accident and it would be nice not to have to arrange other transportation to get to work.

BTW I have considered putting it into dealer mode but for some reason my plug looks considerably different than the plugs I have found in other threads (of maybe I am looking at the wrong one) so I don't want to fry anthing when it is going to a dealer shortly anyway.

 

[GIXERHP]

Is your clutch master cylinder an oem one?

 

[jsutherman]

As far as I know it is (bike has 8500 miles, I have had it for 2500 of them). It is interesting that I did just install new ASV shorties. Now I am not a genius when it comes to engine/clutch mechanics, but how would the master cylinder cause the problem? Could it quickly or slightly engage and disengage the clutch causing the hiccup? And if so, why at that given RPM, why not at a higher range or during accel?

 

[GIXERHP]

If you had a Brembo RCS master with a hydraulic switch, it will cause the same problem.
But if your master is oem,, your all set!
Now you need to put the bike in dealer mode, it sounds like a c41 code, but you need to have the bike with the FI light triggered to tell

 

[jsutherman]

Update, I took a look at the actual clutch lever assembly and noticed that when the clutch lever is pulled in all the way, it pushes out on the plug that is behind the reservoir. Not sure if it has to do with anything. Couple of pictures below. Also, I have never put it into dealer mode, but I have done a little investigating and want to make sure I have the right plug. If so, is it the black wire with the white stripe and the white wire with the red stripe that I jump together?

 

[GIXERHP]

Yes the Black with white trace, and the white with red trace
White plug
Lever is fine

 

[GIXERHP]

Jump the wires and go for a ride till you trigger the FI light, then you will see code

 

[jsutherman]

Thanks so much for the help! I will update tomorrow hopefully with the code!

 

[GIXERHP]

Ok sounds good

 

[jsutherman]

So it took my about 20 miles of driving around to throw the code and it threw a C40-Idle Speed Control. Any idea where to go from here?

 

[GIXERHP]

How long is it been doing this for? Besides the levers, anything else new done to the bike.
If your interested i have a ISCvalve that i bought, let me know.
JFYI there is 3 different versions of C40 code. and you need the Suzuki SDS scan tool to know what is going on.

 

[jsutherman]

Bike started just this year. As far as new stuff, just EBC pads and bar end mirrors, nothing with the motor or electronics. Only other thing the bike has is exhaust (had it since I bought it). Couple of questions though...

1) How difficult is it to replace this valve?
2) Could something else be causing the valve to malfunction?
3) Again, bike has service schedule and recall work coming up, would it hurt it at all to drive it-about an hour/hour and a half?

 

[GIXERHP]

Riding is not going to hurt, just shut if off and restart when the fi light comes on.
As for replace the valve, its on top of the throttle bodies.
Do you have the service manual, and a multi meter. If you do you can diagnose it to see if it needs to be replaced, new from the dealer they cost over $175

 

[jsutherman]

I ordered a service manual (only bike I have ever owned without having the service manual). I don't have a multi meter but I am going to consider one. As far as the valve, where would be a good place to buy one if need be? Sounds like it isn't a terribly difficult repair, should be able to do that myself. Thanks for the help by the way. Nice to know it is nothing extremely serious.

 

[GIXERHP]

I have the one i bought only to find out it was not my problem. I paid $185 shipped for it. I would sell it for half, $93 tyd! I had it plugged in for 15 mins and put the original one back in!

 

[jsutherman]

Sorry for keeping everyone uninformed, I have been out of town for some time. So I pulled out my old ohm meter, took apart the bike, and inspected the valve. No leaks or blockages that I can tell in the hoses, and the wiring appears fine. Leads me to think that the valve is fine, as I have found a lot of compelling evidence that suggests my new ASV levers could be the problem because they are not hitting the clutch switch right, leading to what the ECU thinks is a high idle, thus, throwing the code. Any suggestions?

 

[dave s]

Put your oem one's on , easy free test