Headwork complete....got numbers if ya want

G

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Friday the flow work was completed on the new head. I am using stock sized, aftermarket stainless steel valves and had all intake flow numbers taken at .400" and all exhaust flow numbers taken at .380" and 10" of H2O. Before any porting the intakes flowed between 137 and 139 cfm. Exhausts were in the 88-90cfm range. All I wanted was a good cleanup of casting flash and a smoothing of the short turn radius. The results gave intake numbers at 145 and exhaust numbers at 94. A good pipe will help to bring up the exhaust flow. Now if I can just find someone who can get that Wyvern 4-2-1-2 pipe for me.
 
Tom,are you using stock cams? If using different cams,why didn't you put bigger(next size up)valves in since you went with SS valves anyway? How fast are you looking to go?
 
Kawabuser,
Im willing to look at other exhaust systems. I would like a full ti with a 4-2-1-2 configuration.

Martin,
I looked at the 2 brothers site. I was under the impression they were 4-2 systems. Maybe I didnt read it well enough. I dont think its all that light though.

Wronglane,
No stock cams. Using the 483/536 Web cams. For my purposes the stock sized valves (at a greater lift than stock) with a little port work provides more than enough airflow.
This is a street motor and port velocity is very important. That is why I am not using oversized valves or adding a lot of volume to the ports. We can use the Superflow dyno formulas to make a predictive analysis here. 145 cfm is enough airflow to support approx 248 HP. This is simple (and well documented) math. However, the average airflow thru the port will be somewhat less than the total. On my 1500cc motor, this head will produce ~220 HP at ~11000. As I do not plan on changing the bikes factory RPM limiter, I will be shifting slightly before the peak. There are a lot of variables I have not mentioned, but the power figures I quote should be within a couple of percent.
 
Tom--Thanks for the information and good thread. Velocity is the key and must be matched to your combo.

Glad to see some numbers finally.

Did you the check the CC's of the chambers??
Suzuki claims them to be 18.8 cc. I am curious how accurate they are as it will affect end compression on the stock bike.

Also curious to know if you checked how far down the piston is in the cylinder? If at all.

[This message has been edited by Bob (edited 20 March 2000).]
 
That 65% may have been a good reason to use a 1mm over exhaust valve. But as Tom mentioned this is a street motor and he wants the velocity (read torque) kept up. Very good thread. I'm curious wronglane, what percentage of exhaust to intake flow would you want for a forced induction engine? What would be the best way to do that: oversize exhaust valve or porting or both?
 
Tom,
I just got back from visiting Lazer Porting in Pa. They had good things to say about the Busa head. No real port work needed just a clean up and a valve job.
Man I like the sound of your project! I wish you lived next door, we could have all kinds of fun!
Jamie
 
We will cc the head and the piston to determine where the deck should be set at to achive a 12.5:1 CR. The exhaust flow is a little weak, but a good pipe can improve this somewhat. In a normally aspirated engine, you would try for exhaust ports that flow about 74% of the intake. This motor can use a single pattern camshaft (intake and exhaust valve events are the same). If the exhaust ports were a little weak, you can add a little lift and duration to the exhaust lobes and get things closer to being in line.
In a motor using a substantial amount of NOS (where more than 25% of the total power is coming from the squeeze) you want the exhaust to be closer to 80% of the intake, and a little more duration on the exhaust lobe wont hurt either. A motor with a supercharger on it works under pressure instead of vacuum. As long as the exhaust valve is adequately sized and the header pipes/exhaust system is big enough the blower will force the air out. Balance is pretty much irrelevant, it becomes a volume problem. I dabble in big street motors. Check it out;

http://www.inficad.com/~tmcqueen
 
Thanks for the informative info Tom.Most people do not know that when you know flow numbers,you can calculate the horsepower and be extremely close.My brother builds very fast street cars and race motors for a living.After he ports a head he will tell the customer the motor will make x amount of horsepower before it is dynoed.He is usually within 10-15 horsepower on a 600 horsepower smallblock,so yes it works.It is then proven on the dragstrip where the clocks have a funny way of humbling big mouth boasters of 9 and 10 second street cars for the "clocks don't lie"!How many times have you heard a guy say my car has 500 or 600 hundred hp,runs low 10's and when raced at the track, he's lucky to break into the 12's(lol)?If your making horsepower,the traps will show it.Wow,I got a little off the subject,didn't I?
Keep us posted Tom.One more note.Your exhaust is flowing 65% of your intake.We always shoot for 80% even on a street motored bike or car for exhaust flow is just as important as intake flow and when you see a bike or car that makes people look twice at the trap speed posted,you can bet the exhaust port or ports are flowing close to 80% or in some cases better(I am talking normally aspirated motors).We have done nitrous motors with the exhaust at 90%!Getting 80% or better does take quite a bit of time and is for very experienced porters though.Most shops will play it safe as not to poke holes into water jackets.
 
GSXRTURBO1,
"what percentage of exhaust to intake flow would you want for a forced induction engine? What would be the best way to do that: oversize exhaust valve or porting or both?"

If you put a turbo on a bike like the Busa,I would just bolt it on since you will have all the power (too much really)you need in a street application.

If you wanted to go faster than that,I would want very close to or 80% exhaust flow compared to the intake.

The best way to achieve 80% would be porting and yes,putting in a bigger exhaust valve will help this be realized.
 
GSXRTURBO1,
"That 65% may have been a good reason to use a 1mm over exhaust valve. But as Tom mentioned this is a street motor and he wants the velocity (read torque) kept up"

When I first read this thread,I didn't realize Toms' bike was going to be 1500cc's.It sounds closer to a race bike only because of the compression and due to the size of the motor,I would put the biggest valves(intake and exhaust) that would fit.Velocity loss if any would be negligible due to motor size and compression.Even if stock compression was 11:1,a good porter can keep velocity high through shaping of the port keeping torque low in the powerband.
In his quest to make more horsepower,Tom has put his money in the best place......the cylinder head!
 
I think you would want to shift around thirty thousand, but that would be before the boost comes on :)

Jay
 
Tom McQueen,

When you are ready to ride drop me an email. I'm in Mesa working at Willilams Gateway Airport. Love to see your bike.
My email is in my profile under HOMEPAGE.

Ride Safe, RJ

[This message has been edited by Roberto Jorge (edited 21 March 2000).]
 
Ferrea has on the shelf 1mm over in intake and exhaust...you can put 1.5 mm over in intake seat but valve will have to made from a blank.Thier valves if I remember correectly when we wieghed them were 4 grams lighter than stock....
 
Stay away from Lazer. He will take your money and do nothing. He really screwed a friend with a GSXR head. Said it would flow in the high 140s when he was done and flowed about 120 after checking. Then would not make good on it.
 
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