Hayabusero, there are several ways to go, so I'll give you general directions , and if you have a problem get back to me.
The simplest way to wire it is to pick up the power from a wire under the small fiber panel on the left side below the instrument panel. That's where the fuse box is. You can pick up the power either at the fuse box or at one of the wire bundles. If you are good at reading wiring diagrams you can look in the owners manual,but not really necessary.
You need a simple tester for 12v.,the one with a light and 2 wires coming from it; one wire has a pointed steel probe on it and the other usually has an alligator clip. Available at any auto parts store for less than $5. While you are there pick up a wiring kit if you don't have one. You know, the little pliers-like tool that comes with the plastic connectors? Pick up a few tap-in connectors if the kit doesn't have any. Also a bit of wire, #16 works well. Most important, pick up an in-line fuse holder with some fuses to match, anything from 3 to 10 amps will work. Zip-ties also.
You want to pick up the power from a wire which is controlled by the ignition. Use the tester to find one that lights the bulb when the probe is inserted (with the alligator clip on a good ground)and the ignition is on, and does not light it when the key is off. Use a tap-in connector and a short length of your new wire(about 3"-4").Install your in- line fuse on your stub of wire; this will insure that you don't fry anything if you make a mistake or if a wire chafes and shorts years from now. You now have a choice. You can run your detector's wiring down and connect it to your new lead from the fuse, or you can run a wire from the fuse to the instrument area and connect with your detector there. You can pick up a good ground from the instrument panel screw on the lower left side. Whatever you do, use zip-ties to secure any loose wires. You can run your leads between the fiber panel and the instrument panel on either side.There is foam there, so clearance is no issue, although you can notch the panel if you choose. I have put 2 plastic clips on the fiber panel below the windscreen on the side. It keeps the lead to the detector out of the way and secured, leaving only enough slack to reach the unit.
This is the easy, traditional way, and will work on most installations except some Valentine 1s. There is an outside chance that your detector could pick up some induction current from some of the powerful electrical sources near the fuse box. If it does, you will experience false alarms under power, usually between 3 and 4 thousand rpm in lower gears. The solution to this is to go to the back of the bike and use the tail light wire, or run a lead directly from the battery, crossing over to the right side of the bike to stay away from the fuse area. The best ground on the right side is the throttle cable clip on the frame.
Anyone wiring a Valentine should check with me first.
A final thought is to avoid directional signal wires as a source of power. The fluctuation in power could cause false alarms.
I have probably over-simplified, assuming that you had never wired before, although that's likely not the case.
Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by SlowHand (edited 23 December 1999).]
