davidl9953
Registered
i was doing the pair mod, and happen to look into the throttle body, seen this...... what should i do to clean the valves off, without taking the motor apart !
help please
- Thread starter davidl9953
- Start date
I would find a shop that has a true "Motor-vac"; which is a stand alone fuel cleaning system from Snap-on, Matco, or Mac, that has a cleaning agent mixed with it's own fuel supply and see how that works. We use one in our shop, but we are an automotive repair facility; tho, GENERALLY speaking, a combustion chamber is a combustion chamber. I do know the BG 44K kits do work well, but I think the Motor-Vac system is a bit more thorough. We actually have both systems in our shop and depending on the problem, could resort to the use of both. It is truly hard to actually remove all carbon deposits, but you GOTTA run a premium fuel to HELP avoid it. I don't know much about Shell gasolines so I can't knock it, other than I didn't like the way it ran in my 450 hp sb Chevy in my Monte or the 425 hp sb I had in my Z-28. I personally run either BP 93 or Sunoco 94. I've got 9800K on my '06 and don't have any build-up.
mike1180
Banned
Good advice.
Try the Shell in your bike, it works excellent in mine.
What is good enough for Ferrari is good enough for me!
Johnnycheese
Registered
WHAT????
techron additive and in two tank of gas it is gone
What don't you understand Johnny? I'll be more than glad to elaborate for you! The one thing I do know about "additives" that you put in your fuel tank that are "SUPPOSE" to clean actually don't. Believe me, i've been a wrench for a looooong time and those fuel additives are proven not to work because they have to be diluted immensely or else they would mess up the veins in the fuel pump and potentially plug your injectors; whereas the motor-vac chemical is balanced so it can effectively clean without the potential follow-up harm. Now, on the other hand, it does depend on the amount of carbon build-up you are trying to remove. In lighter cases such as this, the techron additives MAY help, but I just truly don't believe; thru research and trial and error, that fuel tank additives just don't work.....my personal, professional opinion....
Cadillac runs Mobil1 in there engines and is "RECOMMENDED" by top engineers. The funny thing is, I thought engineers drove trains
, and if engineers had it so down pat, why tech's and engineers never see eye to eye? It's because things look so great on a piece of paper, then you get to open the actual hood, and o.m.g., what the flip happened? Anyhow, I once tried mobil1 in my monte, and it literally ATE 2.5 qts. in 1,000 miles, but the conventional Castrol GTX....only 1/4 qt gone in 1,000 miles ..... things that make you go hmmmmmm. But hey, what works for 1 may not for another, and that is why timmy is timmy, jeff is jeff, beth is beth, and i'm kevin
Johnnycheese
Registered
techron $7.00
now how much is that cleaning?
what don't you understand
now how much is that cleaning?
what don't you understand
$7.00 x 2 = $14.00 + tax where applicable. and again, IF it works. And the motor-vac clean is 29.99. I was asking what you were asking "WHAT?" about. And like I had mentioned before, from all the research thats been done on these so-called "fuel tank cleaning additives" they just don't work as efficiently or effectively as a true cleaning system does.
The following is a "Use at your own Risk" item... this is an old remedy I have used for 25+ years.. works like a charm and if done correctly, will not hurt a thing.. done incorrectly, you can shorten a connecting rod, blow head gaskets or generally trash a motor in short order.. if you feel you may have "hydraulic" on a cylinder (motor stalls and wont turn over) stop and pull the spark plugs... and spin motor over..
I have left parts of the below rather vague for a reason.. if you do not understand what is going on, then you probably should not use the system..
excessive carbon build up removal:
needle valve assy (to adjust the flow of solution)
rubber vacuum line
1 qt water
4 oz ATF
1/2 oz dawn dishsoap
mix and agitate
Slow slow feed into vacuum port on running motor until solution is almost completely spent.. increase flow until motor starts to miss.. kill engine..
let sit for at least 4 hours/ refire motor and hot lap the thing..
I have left parts of the below rather vague for a reason.. if you do not understand what is going on, then you probably should not use the system..
excessive carbon build up removal:
needle valve assy (to adjust the flow of solution)
rubber vacuum line
1 qt water
4 oz ATF
1/2 oz dawn dishsoap
mix and agitate
Slow slow feed into vacuum port on running motor until solution is almost completely spent.. increase flow until motor starts to miss.. kill engine..
let sit for at least 4 hours/ refire motor and hot lap the thing..
Wow....didn't think any1 still used the old school cleaning system. And yes, this way is not for the faint of heart. I actually watched my old instructor "shorten" a rod as you said by not 'paying' attention. It was not a good day
. ike you said tho.....IF YOU DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOUR DOING, DO NOT ATTEMPT!HUMMM , I like the old school of Marvel mystry oil.. My last truck was Run very very hard, it had 340k miles when I sold it used about a pint of oil B/T changes , I sold it to a friend a few years ago , and it still runs like scalded ape.. Mobil1 and Marvel oil & BPfuel. I guess it being a chevy ( 350 ) helps..
HUMMM , I like the old school of Marvel mystry oil.. My last truck was Run very very hard, it had 340k miles when I sold it used about a pint of oil B/T changes , I sold it to a friend a few years ago , and it still runs like scalded ape.. Mobil1 and Marvel oil & BPfuel. I guess it being a chevy ( 350 ) helps..
love Marvel mystery oil. have a bottle in my tool box locker at work and on the shelf at home; like BP fuels also; Mobil1 tho.....NAW, done many comparison over the years of different oils in different vehicles and applications and PERSONALLY, I wouldn't put Mobil1 in anything; worst oil i ever used. My old 400 hp sb chevy in my 86 Monte "ATE" 2 1/2 qts in 1,000 miles; whereas, conventional Castrol GTX 10w-30 only 1/4 shy after 1,000 miles. Tested and tried 6 major oils on that engine and Castrol was the best, and of course I waited for a good break in of 5K before I started trying different oils. Even Amsoil didn't work that well.
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