99 - 2000 are prone to fuel probs!
Most likely blockage in the filters and injectors
From what I have read it is best to bin the filters and replace with "one" inline filter in the outlet line from the fuel pump
also replace the return line to the tank with a line less inclined to kinking
The filters are in the fuel pump and the injectors
You may also want to have the injectors cleaned while they are out
Once it is all done run a fuel system cleaner on a regular basis
If you just want to cclean them instead of removing them,
I tracked down a "how to" on the cleaning of the filter
It's from 200mph.org.uk
see below
CLEANING THE FUEL SYSTEM
These filters are all little buggers. There is a big one in the tank. Try to get it out without shaking tank too much. I took tank off completely. Its quite easy
1 under the regulator on the pump can be got to with everything in place. This is a little one and constantly gets blocked. 2 screw's and vacuum hose and off comes the regulator. It can sometimes be a problem to get O-rings to sit right on reinstall. Much easier with the pump and injectors off bike.
2 filters inside the pump and 4 in injector tops, all components need to be removed to get at them.
DO THE JOB PROPERLY!!
How to do it?? well let me see. This could take a while. Are you sitting comfortably?? LOL
1. Either plug both tank lines (bungs in tail section) or plug return and turn off petcock (loosen little screws and turn with needle nose pliers half way. tighten screws.)
2. Remove tank (bolts at back on hinge, fuel sender connector, tip over sensor connector and 2 hoses which need to be pulled up from the back and left attached to tank). Lay the tank the normal way up ready to remove the petcock filter after draining without too much disturbance.
3. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER. IF YOU DON'T YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW HEADS. THEY ARE SOFT AS BUTTER. I DID ON 2 THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. YOU ONLY HAVE 1 CHANCE SO MAKE SURE IT IS A GOOD FIT!!!! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!
4. Remove all 4 electrical connectors to injectors.
5. Remove all 4 screws holding injector bar in place. The injector rail will not come off yet due to the little hose at LH Side attached to pump. Don't panic!!!
5. Remove 5 bolts holding pump bracket to engine. (They are bolts with screwdriver fitting also)
6. For this bit having 4 hands is helpful!! lift pump, injector bar and all the gubbins off and away from the engine. (Try to leave injectors in place, if only for safety reasons. You don't want to drop them!! If they insist in coming out, okay, but be bloody careful. I had a large sheet scrunched up and placed over the G/box area just in case.
7. Separate all the injector bars (they will come apart easily so be careful!!) and injectors. Remembering where they all go!! Put the injectors to one side, ready for cleaning later. Remove banjo bolt on pump that holds the little fuel pipe on. Be careful not to loose washers.
8. Now to the pump. YOU MUST REMOVE THE BRACKET TO GET AT THE SCREWS PROPERLY!! TRUST ME. I HAD SCREWDRIVER AT SLIGHT ANGLE DUE TO NOT REMOVING BRACKET AND I CHEWED UP A SCREW HEAD. TOOK ME AGES TO GET THE THING OUT!!! So, slip heat cover off (see, you didn't need to cut it!!) and remove the bolts holding on the bracket. Remove bracket
9. Firmly gripping the pump housing, loosen the 2 regulator retaining bolts and remove the regulator and little filter underneath. This will be filthy!!! gaurenteed!!
10. Loosen all 4 bolts holding the 2 pieces of pump housing together...please be careful!! they are loctited in. Break pump housing in half.
11. The smaller "cap" bit will have a white plastic bit in it with an O-ring in a tube. pull this whole piece out. Mine required a lot of force as the O-ring holding it in is quite a tight fit. Be careful of the spring behind it!! it is quite big, but might shoot out. Remove paper filter and blast with carburetor cleaner to clean. Some say to leave this paper filter out. Check cap for grime and blow out with carburetor cleaner.
NB TRY NOT TO GET TOO MUCH ON O-RINGS. THEY WILL GO OVERSIZE QUICKLY ON CONTACT WITH AIR, BUT A LITTLE OIL SMEARED ON REASSEMBLY WILL SORT IT!!
12. Go to other pump part. Disconnect wires. Remove the notched retainer around the outside of the pump. Remembering how it fits. (recessed side inwards see it?? Notice how pump sits. Pull it out.
13. Behind the pump is a white plastic "carrier". Mine didn't' come out with the pump. IT IS A TOUGH ONE TO GET OUT!! O-ring holding it in. I got 2 fingers across the slots and managed to start it turning. Then I got some long nose pliers, gripped one of the long plastic bits and pulled. Mine needed a bloody good few tugs to get it out!!. In its end, when out, you will see a mesh filter. I BET THIS IS CLOGGED!!!! Its an job to clean ..the filter will pop out, but needs lots of attention...blow the crud off with cleaner. I managed to wipe most off, and kept blasting. Eventually it came clean. Do the same to the pump housing
14. Smear inside of bore with clean oil on a finger and smear oil on the o-ring. With twisting and persuasion it goes back in nicely. Line it up, you'll see how it goes.
15. Put the pump back in, twist in the carrier to fine align all. replace rubber spacer at top of pump, reconnect wires, replace paper filter, remember open end of paper filter inside cap. Spring then plastic cover, smearing O rings with clean oil as we go!! O ring in cover hole, or put on pump tube, it doesn't matter, as long as its oiled and can go in okay!!
16. Check connections are right on, smear final funny shaped O ring around 2 halves with some oil and put back together. Screws are 3 Nm (tight as I could get them) I changed the bolts to cap head stainless steel bolts as well...
17. Blast the little filter from under regulator with carburetor cleaner, then reinstall. Smear some oil on the regulator O rings. Be careful with the one that contacts the top of the little filter. It has a tendency to come out upon install (I haven't had this problem. A few have) if it does, redo it. It buggers everything if not right.
18. Screw regulator down, 3 Nm again, brackets back on (I think 3 or 5 Nm) and heat shield on.
19. Now to injectors. Filters do come out of the tops, but once out they are permanently out. I just blasted them with carburetor cleaner, then also up the other end. This seemed to yield quite a quantity of grime!!!!
20. Reinstall is tricky. Injectors must not be turned upon insertion, and getting 4 into holes at the same time while being careful of the needles is hard to say the least. I put injectors in first (oiling O ring cushions of course) when completely in I turned to desired position. Then I installed pump and bracket, but not pipe and bolt for injector rail.
21. Make up injector rail off bike, using light smearing of oil on the O rings (surprise surprise!!) then smear the tops of the injectors and push on all at once. (a little rocking back and forth seemed to do it for me!!)
22. Install screws for the rail holder, making sure that the connection to the pump is aligned correctly. Install banjo and washers for this connection.
23. Tighten all screws and bolts, make sure all goes down where it is meant to. reconnect injector electrics (4 connectors) and pump wires, and regulator vacuum hose.
24. Drain tank in normal position (from petcock is best as this is where fuel comes from and we want all the grime in the tank to be sucked onto the filter). Without turning over, remove the 2 bolts holding the petcock in place. pull it straight down. Filter inside is about 4 inches long. Blast with carburetor cleaner until clean. Swish tank around a bit to ensure all is out!!
25 Replace petcock.
26******###### RIGHT. NOW TURN PETCOCK BACK ON!! ON, LOOKING AT THE TURNING BIT IS FULLY CLOCKWISE. (IF YOU DONT AND START THE BIKE, PUMP WILL FRY!!)######********
27. Reinstall tank, poking the 2 rear tubes down in between frame and engine case, poke in later to position. Install 2 bolts holding hinged bracket on, I let tank down and put front bolts in to ensure correct alignment then torqued down hinge bolts. Prop tank, install both fuel lines REPLACE CLIPS ON RETURN LINE WITH FUEL INJECTION WORM DRIVE CLAMPS AND I REPLACED THE RETURN HOSE WITH BRAIDED AUTO STUFF. (8MM) ,sender and tip over sensor electrics, check everything is back in, looking right, nothing left over (I think I have remembered everything)
28. Lower tank, add fuel.
29. Raise tank, CHECK PETCOCK IS ON!!! neutral, and key on, pump should prime up. Check for leaks (you should be okay if it all went back together properly)
Job done!!
I had a clicking from my #4 injector for a while after installing, I think I dislodged some crud and it got stuck. Its not there now, so I guess it has gone!!
That's about it !!
