Since some of you are doing the low beam HID upgrade, can I get a pic of the lowbeam mounting clip installed (Close-up shot). Like I said yesterday, I launched mine across the room & can't figgure out how to get it back on. Yes Ive done a search, but not much info, and cant find any pictures of the clip properly installed & the haynes manual doesnt photo the part well enough to figgure it out.
HID people
- Thread starter MN72Busa
- Start date
I don't have a pic, but my first mistake was to unscrew both screws. Anyway, I don't have my camera handy, but I'll describe what you should see.
The rectangular part faces to the right. It will fit in the groove below the right screw. If you put it in backwards, the metal end will stick out in a wierd way. Once you have the right side in that channel, screw the right side down.
So now if you put the left side down, you should see how the top and bottom of the retaining clip will lay across that foam pad.
When clipping the left side down, the left screw, and that piece of metal the screw holds should either be almost all they way screwed in, or all the way in. You should then clip the left side under the little lip on that piece of metal the left screw holds down.
Call me, and I can walk you through it if nobody posts a pic.
919 363 8308.
Good luck.
The rectangular part faces to the right. It will fit in the groove below the right screw. If you put it in backwards, the metal end will stick out in a wierd way. Once you have the right side in that channel, screw the right side down.
So now if you put the left side down, you should see how the top and bottom of the retaining clip will lay across that foam pad.
When clipping the left side down, the left screw, and that piece of metal the screw holds should either be almost all they way screwed in, or all the way in. You should then clip the left side under the little lip on that piece of metal the left screw holds down.
Call me, and I can walk you through it if nobody posts a pic.
919 363 8308.
Good luck.
Juggler...Thank You so much Bro! I can't believe how simple you made it for me, Let me know if there is anything I can do for ya.
Here's a few pics of the 6K HID from the group-buy & ICEMANN's Yellow bulb - I know the lamp is dirty, but was excited to take some pics & post
Here's a few pics of the 6K HID from the group-buy & ICEMANN's Yellow bulb - I know the lamp is dirty, but was excited to take some pics & post
www.thevmc.com Link no longer workswww.thevmc.com Link no longer worksheck, I dont even have the nose on the bike - since I need to order a new Uncracked nose...lol, thus the ballast is sitting on a table right now.
Not sure where Im gonna mount the ballast at this point, but after running the HID for about 20 minutes last night to break in the bulb her's what I observed. The ballast got hot, but not hot enough to melt plastics in my opinion. However I don't think I would feel comfortable mounting the ballast directly to the fairing. I know there are some posts on this site about ballast mounting locations & Im gonna look into those threads for the best possible option for mounting. Might get a small bracket to mount it....if you have any ideas, post up your suggestions.
valium,
That is the same setup I'm going to have; 6000K low with Icemann's yellow high beam. Looks pretty good!
I've seen other installs that mount the ballast right to the plastic and I've not heard of anyone having problems with melting. PM Vic_E55_2001. He has both high and low HID kits mounted. Ask him how he mounted his or if he has problems with heat melting the plastic.
Just talked to Vic this morning on the phone - Heck of a good guy. Next time I chat with him I will ask him about mounting. Not sure, and I have to look again, but didn't Vic already post something about how he mounted his HID Ballast's
Not sure if he posted his install. I just sent him a PM asking how he mounted and if he has any problems with melting.Just talked to Vic this morning on the phone - Heck of a good guy. Next time I chat with him I will ask him about mounting. Not sure, and I have to look again, but didn't Vic already post something about how he mounted his HID Ballast's
When I installed my Iceman HID setup, he recommended mounting the ballast to the ram air tube
You can secure it with velcro or whatever but Ice said to use some size 0 Hoover vacuum cleaner belts. Guess what.... worked perfectly. Almost 2yrs with it so far and damn thing never moves and no heat issues since the tube stays cooled with constant air movement
GOOSH!..
<span style='font-size:17pt;line-height:100%'>MOUNTING TIPS FOR HID BALLAST</span>
1. Mount ballast to right (as seated on bike) ram air tube diaganal part. Test fit with cheap double sided tape, sliding nose section on/off to ensure fit.
2. Prior to perm mount clean ram tube with alcohol and let disolve. Use provided double sided tape pad.
3. Get a package of two enclosed, hoover #60 flat vacuume cleaner belts at about $1.99 - $3.00 for the two. (GIANT RUBBER BANDS)
4. Make sure you can "unplug" or "Seperate" wires between ballast and lighting igniter or socket depending on model. You dont want to be removing nose section and have to stop and untape wires to ballast due to light being on nose and ballast on ram tube. If there are no connectors put one in. Note ram air tubes get less vibration and are flater and thicker than inside nose section. Less likely to get damaged in minor crash. *PUT TOWEL ON FRONT FENDER TO AVOID SCRATCHES*
5. Mount igniter on shelf above headlight. Perfect fit. Clean shelf with alcohol. Decent double sided tape works.
6. DONT TOUCH GLASS HID BULB PERIOD. Clean with alcohol lightly and let disolve completely.
7. Stock headlight wiring works but not totally suggested for HID power source. Wont hurt the wires but it's going thru the entire headlight circuit with other stuff on it.
8. Consder putting an on/off switch in to take low current shortage away from ballast during bike start up (starvation).
9. Use a 12v relay. Get power from the bikes battery to power relay. Use headlight wire to "trigger" relay to turn on ballast. Put on/off switch on ground side of main power from battery to relay. Relay power will work all the time bike on or off however headlight wire will only trigger relay to light ballast with key on or bike running. No drain thru bike smaller wire configurations. No flickering due to bad grounding/connections.
10. Do not use HID kits with high tension lines (spark plug wires) and BEND THE LINES.
11. Do not mount ballast in trunk area and run LONG ASSS wires to the front.
12. Re-aim headlight while sitting on bike before putting inner panels back on.
13. Try not to use cheap crimp on connectors, solder it. Too much vibrations.
14. Use silcone to completely cover all the contacts on the relay once your satisifed with your hook up to keep moisture out and vibration shorts to a min.
15. Suggestions of relay mounting location. BACK SIDE OF INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FRAME.
16. Glad I could help.
<!--EDIT|ICEMANN
Reason for Edit: None given...|1137001055 -->
<span style='font-size:17pt;line-height:100%'>MOUNTING TIPS FOR HID BALLAST</span>
1. Mount ballast to right (as seated on bike) ram air tube diaganal part. Test fit with cheap double sided tape, sliding nose section on/off to ensure fit.
2. Prior to perm mount clean ram tube with alcohol and let disolve. Use provided double sided tape pad.
3. Get a package of two enclosed, hoover #60 flat vacuume cleaner belts at about $1.99 - $3.00 for the two. (GIANT RUBBER BANDS)
4. Make sure you can "unplug" or "Seperate" wires between ballast and lighting igniter or socket depending on model. You dont want to be removing nose section and have to stop and untape wires to ballast due to light being on nose and ballast on ram tube. If there are no connectors put one in. Note ram air tubes get less vibration and are flater and thicker than inside nose section. Less likely to get damaged in minor crash. *PUT TOWEL ON FRONT FENDER TO AVOID SCRATCHES*
5. Mount igniter on shelf above headlight. Perfect fit. Clean shelf with alcohol. Decent double sided tape works.
6. DONT TOUCH GLASS HID BULB PERIOD. Clean with alcohol lightly and let disolve completely.
7. Stock headlight wiring works but not totally suggested for HID power source. Wont hurt the wires but it's going thru the entire headlight circuit with other stuff on it.
8. Consder putting an on/off switch in to take low current shortage away from ballast during bike start up (starvation).
9. Use a 12v relay. Get power from the bikes battery to power relay. Use headlight wire to "trigger" relay to turn on ballast. Put on/off switch on ground side of main power from battery to relay. Relay power will work all the time bike on or off however headlight wire will only trigger relay to light ballast with key on or bike running. No drain thru bike smaller wire configurations. No flickering due to bad grounding/connections.
10. Do not use HID kits with high tension lines (spark plug wires) and BEND THE LINES.
11. Do not mount ballast in trunk area and run LONG ASSS wires to the front.
12. Re-aim headlight while sitting on bike before putting inner panels back on.
13. Try not to use cheap crimp on connectors, solder it. Too much vibrations.
14. Use silcone to completely cover all the contacts on the relay once your satisifed with your hook up to keep moisture out and vibration shorts to a min.
15. Suggestions of relay mounting location. BACK SIDE OF INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FRAME.
16. Glad I could help.
<!--EDIT|ICEMANN
Reason for Edit: None given...|1137001055 -->
I haven't yet mounted it. I wanted to mount everything in the nose, so I don't have to worry about disconnecting a bunch of stuff when I remove the nose, but I am worried about melting my plastic.
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