busapilot911
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Does anyone know anything about these units? Once again I call on the Iceman for his opinion. There is a group buy deal for $179! Go to www.xenondepot.com/promo and where it asks for the code put in mkhid.
HID sale!
- Thread starter busapilot911
- Start date
I posted about this unit the other day. First. With out large reflector headlights the bulbs we need are D2R (they have silver paint on the glass to aim the light). Those are DS1. Find out about getting replacement bulbs when this place disappears down the road. Is it an instant on type kit once the bulb warms up or is it like gym lights and you have to wait for the bulb to cool down. Any high tension lines you cant fold, bend, or shorten/lengthen these. I dig up my other long detailed post on this.
JD
JD
busapilot911
Registered
I will do some research, The bulbs are philips (so they say) I would think they would be readily available (maybe). I will see what info I can get.
Thanks Iceman. I am sorry that I am such a pest about this subject, but, I am realy looking for an HID setup and I don't want to get the wrong thing.
Monty, I heard about this from another site and I think they got enough for the group thing so anyone else is just extra.
Thanks Iceman. I am sorry that I am such a pest about this subject, but, I am realy looking for an HID setup and I don't want to get the wrong thing.
Monty, I heard about this from another site and I think they got enough for the group thing so anyone else is just extra.
Monty
Registered
Good to know, thanks dude. Keep us posted on anything you find out, I'd really like to do something to improve the lighting.
busapilot911
Registered
This is the return email I recieved from xenondepot.
Hello Sean,
Thank-you for contacting XenonDepot.
As per your email:
1) In terms of D2S or D2R, most HID conversion kits use a D2S bulb. We have
done various experimentation over the past year and for a retrofit
application or OE application out side of Europe the D2R bulb is not
required.
The stripe on the D2R lamps helps hide the salts which would appear as
parasitic images in the light dark transition area of the European
Assymetric dip pattern. On a retrofit or DOT beam pattern (your headlight)
you do not have this light dark transition requirement and as such the D2S
is just fine for any application.
2) We always stock our products.
3) The HID system will work just like your regular halogens. The only
difference is that upon intial startup the bulb will require a couple of
seconds to reach its maximum light output. It is not a good idea to
repeatdely turn the bulb on/off/on/off as this is strenuous on the bulbs and
ballasts.
4) With our motorcycle line of HID conversion kits you will have approx 6
feet of slack going from the bulb to the ballast. This will make for easier
installations as you have more slack to work with. Regular car conversion
kits only provide you with approx 1 foot of slack. The wires are bendable.
We do not suggest modifying the wires as this will void your warranty.
Please let me know if you have any further questions =)
Regards,
Steve
Iceman, does any of this sound right?
Hello Sean,
Thank-you for contacting XenonDepot.
As per your email:
1) In terms of D2S or D2R, most HID conversion kits use a D2S bulb. We have
done various experimentation over the past year and for a retrofit
application or OE application out side of Europe the D2R bulb is not
required.
The stripe on the D2R lamps helps hide the salts which would appear as
parasitic images in the light dark transition area of the European
Assymetric dip pattern. On a retrofit or DOT beam pattern (your headlight)
you do not have this light dark transition requirement and as such the D2S
is just fine for any application.
2) We always stock our products.
3) The HID system will work just like your regular halogens. The only
difference is that upon intial startup the bulb will require a couple of
seconds to reach its maximum light output. It is not a good idea to
repeatdely turn the bulb on/off/on/off as this is strenuous on the bulbs and
ballasts.
4) With our motorcycle line of HID conversion kits you will have approx 6
feet of slack going from the bulb to the ballast. This will make for easier
installations as you have more slack to work with. Regular car conversion
kits only provide you with approx 1 foot of slack. The wires are bendable.
We do not suggest modifying the wires as this will void your warranty.
Please let me know if you have any further questions =)
Regards,
Steve
Iceman, does any of this sound right?
The information her replyed to your requests are "accurate" yet somewhat vague.
He is right about the D2R bulbs however this is my own personal experience speaking after fighting, retrofitting, researching etc etc... Ive had an HID on my busa since 2001.
Our large mirrored reflector that sits behind the stock bulb causes the light from the bulb to bounce forward. Filiment type bulbs like the stock bulb emit light in such a way that the amount of lost light to wierd angles, up, and to the sides is little noticed because the light sucks to begin with.
In an D2R set up, the bulb has that mirrored reflector strip on it, with our headlight housings this strip helps force the direction of light to be more useful.
bdm.com
Anyone who got one of my kits and I originally forgot to tell everyone to put that strip horizontal probably can attest to the light spotting for snipers in the trees more than on the road until they fixed it. DS1 bulbs will work fine it's just that D2R work better.
Ref them always having bulbs in stock. As long as their still in business thats probally true. The problem is with a modified bulb you have to USE THIER bulb and pay their prices. Not bad if they stick around a while.
This is a D2R bulb, and the strip if installed horizontal and on top causes the light to force downward onto the pavement and outward with no light loss going upward where you dont want it.
bdm.com
With the light forced outward and downward it lights the pavement up very nice at night. You can then raise the height of the beam with the stock headlight adjusters and get MORE distance of light without blinding folks.
Hope this helps.
Oh, 6 foot of unbendable, unmodifiable CORD is hard to conceal but can be done...
JD
<!--EDIT|ICEMANN
Reason for Edit: None given...|1090642022 -->
He is right about the D2R bulbs however this is my own personal experience speaking after fighting, retrofitting, researching etc etc... Ive had an HID on my busa since 2001.
Our large mirrored reflector that sits behind the stock bulb causes the light from the bulb to bounce forward. Filiment type bulbs like the stock bulb emit light in such a way that the amount of lost light to wierd angles, up, and to the sides is little noticed because the light sucks to begin with.
In an D2R set up, the bulb has that mirrored reflector strip on it, with our headlight housings this strip helps force the direction of light to be more useful.
bdm.com
Anyone who got one of my kits and I originally forgot to tell everyone to put that strip horizontal probably can attest to the light spotting for snipers in the trees more than on the road until they fixed it. DS1 bulbs will work fine it's just that D2R work better.
Ref them always having bulbs in stock. As long as their still in business thats probally true. The problem is with a modified bulb you have to USE THIER bulb and pay their prices. Not bad if they stick around a while.
This is a D2R bulb, and the strip if installed horizontal and on top causes the light to force downward onto the pavement and outward with no light loss going upward where you dont want it.
bdm.com
With the light forced outward and downward it lights the pavement up very nice at night. You can then raise the height of the beam with the stock headlight adjusters and get MORE distance of light without blinding folks.
Hope this helps.
Oh, 6 foot of unbendable, unmodifiable CORD is hard to conceal but can be done...
JD
<!--EDIT|ICEMANN
Reason for Edit: None given...|1090642022 -->
busapilot911
Registered
Thanks Ice, thats why we ask you. You are the HID guru. So if you had to go out and buy a kit, where would you get it. I don't seem to be able to find the right places. I am sure others are interested also.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
phatjoe
Registered
wizard peep what the watt output is if it is over 55w then prepare to fry your harness seen it happen dozens of times with those jap "hid look" bulbs and that blue foil tint on those bulbs will peel off in no time sorry if i pissed u off with the info just speakin on experience
I was lucky enough to aquire an Iceman HID setup, and man o man, what a difference it makes....there are some pics around on here, but I'll try to take a few...its raining nutz here now, so unless you just want pics of the inside of my garage, its not gonna be tonight, but I'll take some
wizard
Never Forgotten
..fortunately I didn't get this sh** of-a-hid imitation, just was checking up on it..
ICE, would you let us know how much would be for a PROPER HID system from you at REASONABLE "K" 's (not blue-ish, nor purple, just plain-ol' bright white, perhaps between 4-5k's ?.. )
Thanks..
ICE, would you let us know how much would be for a PROPER HID system from you at REASONABLE "K" 's (not blue-ish, nor purple, just plain-ol' bright white, perhaps between 4-5k's ?.. )
Thanks..
Gpirelli
Registered
True...I used to use those on my 9R because that's what dude that sold it to me used, so I kept it going. $20 for two bulbs and had to replace em about every 3 months. Never again...wizard peep what the watt output is if it is over 55w then prepare to fry your harness seen it happen dozens of times with those jap "hid look" bulbs and that blue foil tint on those bulbs will peel off in no time sorry if i pissed u off with the info just speakin on experience
From my experience with the HID's.
Most HID units out there will work fine on a bike. Some just have more draw backs than others.
The ones that have the SMALLEST, LIGHTEST ballast to conceal is easier to work with. Almost all of them use a high current draw from the ballast to ignite the bulb. Once that occurs the ballasts shuts off. The units I was getting that lasted about 7/10ths of one second give or take.
4300K is pure white with a hint of blue. I have had each "K" in my bike and the 4300K was the best with more light IMO. the higher the "K" the more blue, the less light, and the more the blueness filtered out shadows of moving animals which kept me from seeing them. BLUE laser lights, blue anything for that matter is nothing more than a filtering out of white light process which on a motorycyle you need less of IMO.
Any companys HID system will work. Just find out if their is another supplier of thier style of bulbs before you order so you a 2nd source. OR get 2 or more spare bulbs.
All HID bulbs are vibration resistant. I put one LIT UP on a paint shaker a lowes and shook the shyttt out of it. No problem. Rhythm gave the HID bulb the best road test that could ever be given and it still works too.
As long as the new companies HID modified bulb "center" lines up with the stock bulbs filiment when side by side focus should be the same. If the HID bulb's "CENTER" is longer or shorter when side by side then the BUSA's focus will be off. Thus you will a bright arse white light that is useless. A blurry spot light if you will.
The "HID" look alike bulbs are just that. They are to mimmick the blue look that BMW offers in their car not the light output. JUST LOOKS. Awww man that looks cool! yet is worthless. A true HID is a bulb, socket, igniter and or a seperate ballast that has the igniter built in.
$179 isnt bad but if you think of it.. it's just a car kit with TWO hid's split in half and resold as a single unit meaning that the car kit with two is probabbly cheaper.
I might be wrong but I remember Fred from "SHOWPARTS.COM" was something like $150. it's been awhile and dont quote me, but he will do a group buy and I think his were hella german brand ballasts which are really good.
JD
Most HID units out there will work fine on a bike. Some just have more draw backs than others.
The ones that have the SMALLEST, LIGHTEST ballast to conceal is easier to work with. Almost all of them use a high current draw from the ballast to ignite the bulb. Once that occurs the ballasts shuts off. The units I was getting that lasted about 7/10ths of one second give or take.
4300K is pure white with a hint of blue. I have had each "K" in my bike and the 4300K was the best with more light IMO. the higher the "K" the more blue, the less light, and the more the blueness filtered out shadows of moving animals which kept me from seeing them. BLUE laser lights, blue anything for that matter is nothing more than a filtering out of white light process which on a motorycyle you need less of IMO.
Any companys HID system will work. Just find out if their is another supplier of thier style of bulbs before you order so you a 2nd source. OR get 2 or more spare bulbs.
All HID bulbs are vibration resistant. I put one LIT UP on a paint shaker a lowes and shook the shyttt out of it. No problem. Rhythm gave the HID bulb the best road test that could ever be given and it still works too.
As long as the new companies HID modified bulb "center" lines up with the stock bulbs filiment when side by side focus should be the same. If the HID bulb's "CENTER" is longer or shorter when side by side then the BUSA's focus will be off. Thus you will a bright arse white light that is useless. A blurry spot light if you will.
The "HID" look alike bulbs are just that. They are to mimmick the blue look that BMW offers in their car not the light output. JUST LOOKS. Awww man that looks cool! yet is worthless. A true HID is a bulb, socket, igniter and or a seperate ballast that has the igniter built in.
$179 isnt bad but if you think of it.. it's just a car kit with TWO hid's split in half and resold as a single unit meaning that the car kit with two is probabbly cheaper.
I might be wrong but I remember Fred from "SHOWPARTS.COM" was something like $150. it's been awhile and dont quote me, but he will do a group buy and I think his were hella german brand ballasts which are really good.
JD
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