Homemade Manometer

pward76

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I made this based on pics I saw on another site.

1/4" ID clear tubing (32 feet - 4 8 ft lengths)
5/32" vacuum hose (16 feet - 4 4 ft lengths)
connectors
pegboard
zip ties

the fluid is ATF

mano1_smaller.jpg
 
Wow, that's big! No squinting to see that! How much ATF did it take for that level?
 
(Poppy @ Apr. 01 2007,18:12) Wow, that's big! No squinting to see that! How much ATF did it take for that level?
surprisingly little.

I didn't measure it, but less than a quarter of a quart...

I took the pic in my driveway, which is not level, hence the different heights in the tubes
 
sweet.... let us know how it works.
 
(pward76 @ Apr. 01 2007,21:19)
(Poppy @ Apr. 01 2007,18:12) Wow, that's big! No squinting to see that! How much ATF did it take for that level?
surprisingly little.  

I didn't measure it, but less than a quarter of a quart...

I took the pic in my driveway, which is not level, hence the different heights in the tubes
I did notice the progressively different levels. Looks good.......
 
Great job.

Just so you know, the Motion Pro design, which basically is the same thing you did, has little blockers in the tubes basically making the effective diameter of the tube about the size of a pin hole.

Just be very careful the first time you connect and and start the bike up. Post back with your results. This is a great idea. Good job.
 
(fstbusa @ Apr. 02 2007,04:25) sweet.... let us know how it works.
I guess I should have mentioned that I have already sync'ed my t-bodies with it. I was kind of tired when I posted originally, and just wanted to get the pics up.

It is VERY sensitive. I could get cyls 1 & 2 balanced to each other, and I could get 3 & 4 balanced to each other, but as soon as I tried to get 1 & 2 to balance to 3 & 4, 1 & 2 would lose their sync, and so would 3 & 4.

I though I might have small leaks at the point where the tubes are joined, so I taped those. I put spring clamps on the hoses where they connect to the t-bodies, just in case. Not sure if that helped much.

I read other posts that said how touchy those adjustment screws are, but you have to experience that to get the full effect.

It took LOTS of adjusting, re-adjusting, and adjusting again. At one point, I had them looking pretty good, and I held the throttle open to see how they looked at higher RPM, and I started to get some popping on decel.
No worries about sucking anything into the engine when revving it (which is why I went with 8 foot tubes). The bike pulls the most vaccuum at idle.

I started over, and finally got them pretty close and no popping. I am waiting for some decent weather, and a new set of tires so I can check the mileage, but the bike is much more responsive to the throttle.

I am going to have to re-define what "smooth" is on the throttle - it's like learning all over again. The fact that I have new gloves and haven't ridden for 4 months isn't helping. (I bought a pair of the closeout Held gloves from New Enough - kangaroo leather - VERY nice!).
As soon as the weather co-operates, and the new tires get mounted, I'm going to give it my full attention.

If anyone in the Des Moines area is interested in syncing their throttle bodies, let me know. I can literally "hook you up".
 
(thebbbusa @ Apr. 02 2007,05:30) Great job.

Just so you know, the Motion Pro design, which basically is the same thing you did, has little blockers in the tubes basically making the effective diameter of the tube about the size of a pin hole.

Just be very careful the first time you connect and and start the bike up.  Post back with your results.  This is a great idea.  Good job.
Good point. I had read all the warnings about that, so I was ready. My first set of adapters for joing the tubes were crap, and I think there was a leak in one or more of them, because when I started it up, the AFT climbed up one tube at an alarming rate. With 12 feet of tubing on each t-body, Iwas able to get it shut off in plenty of time.

Once I had better adapters (and taped them just to be extra sure), there were no issues.
 
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