How do I drain the gas on the busa
- Thread starter clrd2lnd
- Start date
Good luck ...take your seat off and unbolt the 4 bolts off the back of the tank first, then unbolt the too front ones....have someone hold the tank up as you disconnect the two lines, disconnect your wiring first...then when you pull them have a gas container beside you with a funnel....pull fingers out of hose ends and let it drain..lol thats how I do it....basic
Johnnycheese
Registered
Good luck ...take your seat off and unbolt the 4 bolts off the back of the tank first, then unbolt the too front ones....have someone hold the tank up as you disconnect the two lines, disconnect your wiring first...then when you pull them have a gas container beside you with a funnel....pull fingers out of hose ends and let it drain..lol thats how I do it....basic
what? four bolts. pull the seat and the two in the front of the tank hindge it up and if it is a 99-00 which I doubt it would be a ptetcock to turn off. but I think you have a 01-05 which disconect the fuel line in stall a long hose to the tank and turn the key on till the pump cycles and then repeat till tank is empty,(or trip the fuel pump relay) if you need to remove the tank the rear is held down with (2) bolts not four.
foresteronw
Registered
This is exactly what I did a couple of weeks ago.Good luck ...take your seat off and unbolt the 4 bolts off the back of the tank first, then unbolt the too front ones....have someone hold the tank up as you disconnect the two lines, disconnect your wiring first...then when you pull them have a gas container beside you with a funnel....pull fingers out of hose ends and let it drain..lol thats how I do it....basic
what? four bolts. pull the seat and the two in the front of the tank hindge it up and if it is a 99-00 which I doubt it would be a ptetcock to turn off. but I think you have a 01-05 which disconect the fuel line in stall a long hose to the tank and turn the key on till the pump cycles and then repeat till tank is empty,(or trip the fuel pump relay) if you need to remove the tank the rear is held down with (2) bolts not four.
old thread...but seems Johnny's way is best. I syphon it out with a manual pump...but I am messy.
Manual syphon pump.
J'Man
Registered
what? four bolts. pull the seat and the two in the front of the tank hindge it up and if it is a 99-00 which I doubt it would be a ptetcock to turn off. but I think you have a 01-05 which disconect the fuel line in stall a long hose to the tank and turn the key on till the pump cycles and then repeat till tank is empty,(or trip the fuel pump relay) if you need to remove the tank the rear is held down with (2) bolts not four.
+3, I even tried turning the tank upside down and nothing would come out. I used one of the vacuum hoses on the tank to run into a gas can and then flip the switch on and off till it was dry.
Use one of these. Sold at Pep Boys.
'Shaker Syphon'
Hose with a metal end. Inside end is a captured little ball .
Insert and jiggle. When I was there and the guy was telling me about it I was like yeah right.
Thought I would be back in ten pissed.
If I had not seen it and used it I would not believe it.
The metal has added benefit of allowing you to hear how far down in tank it is .
Stick it in there and wiggle a bit you can hear it on the inside of tank.
This thing sucked ALL 5 GALLONS OUT IN LESS THAN A MINUTE !
'Shaker Syphon'
Hose with a metal end. Inside end is a captured little ball .
Insert and jiggle. When I was there and the guy was telling me about it I was like yeah right.
Thought I would be back in ten pissed.
If I had not seen it and used it I would not believe it.
The metal has added benefit of allowing you to hear how far down in tank it is .
Stick it in there and wiggle a bit you can hear it on the inside of tank.
This thing sucked ALL 5 GALLONS OUT IN LESS THAN A MINUTE !
might hit up greg and see how this is made or buy one if youre draing the tank often. mr9 and such.
btw this is gen2 related, but im sure its pretty much the same. prob diff pug or something
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...re-need-interested-fuel-draining-harness.html
btw this is gen2 related, but im sure its pretty much the same. prob diff pug or something
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...re-need-interested-fuel-draining-harness.html
vandyman71
Registered
Re: How do Easily and Effectively Drain and Replace Bad Gas in a Hayabusa
For lack of sufficient riding, the gas in my 2002 Hayabusa went bad and the engine would not start. I took the approach given below to empty the bad gas from the tank and, also, the fuel pump. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the bad gas in the fuel pump be removed along with the bad gas in the tank, since it's the gas in the fuel pump that first enters the combustion chambers when turning the ignition on and starting the engine.
I started by checking the spark plugs and noticed that they were wet from the unignited bad gas. I decided to replace them before starting the process of replacing the bad gas, so that the plugs would be fire-ready when new fresh gas entered the chambers. NOTE: after changing the plugs, do NOT turn the ignition on or start the engine until AFTER having removed the bad gas from the tank and fuel pump; doing so will contaminate the new plugs with bad gas again. The ignition should not be turned on (except as noted in the steps below) or the engine started until after the bad gas in the tank and fuel pump has been replaced with fresh gas.
To remove the bad gas from the tank, I initially considered removing the tank and turning it upside down. However, based on previous posts, this would be time consuming and a very messy process, requiring a bucket to catch the splattering gas. Also, not all gas would be removed because of the inner lip on the tank gas spout.
Here's the approach I decided to take, which I think worked quite well. It is relatively easy, straight-forward and effective:
1. Siphon the bulk of bad gas from the tank. There are several ways to do it as covered in previous posts. I decided to purchase and use the Flotool "Shaker Siphon", Part # 10801, available for about $15 at Pep Boys. After siphoning as much as possible, bad gas will remain in the fuel pump and a small amount will remain in the bottom of the tank.
2. Remove the bad gas from the fuel pump and the small amount of bad gas remaining in the bottom of the tank. Do this by making use of the fuel pump in operation itself. Follow these steps:
a. Remove the seats.
b. Remove the two bolts at the top front of the fuel tank and prop up the front end of the fuel tank using the prop rod contained in the tool compartment under the passenger seat.
c. At the bottom of the tank, locate the attached fuel pump and where the bike's fuel hose connects to it.
d. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump by pinching the white plastic connector on both sides and pulling the fuel hose off the male-end metal tube extending from the fuel pump.
e. Connect a two-feet section of fuel hose to the male-end metal tube from the fuel pump. I used a spare piece of 5/16" (7.9mm) fuel injection hose that I had previously obtained at Pep Boys. The hose fits snug enough to the metal tube to not require additonal fasteners, for the purpose at hand.
f. Put the other end of the fuel hose into a gas container to be used for draining the bad gas.
g. Gently lower the tank. If the weight of the tank pinches the fuel hose too much, place a small block of wood or other material between the tank and frame so that the weight of the tank doesn't pinch the hose. The thickness of the block should only be slightly larger than the diameter of the hose so that the tank can be lowered as much as possible to its normal position.
h. We are now ready to drain (actuallly pump) the bad gas contained contained in the fuel pump as well as the small amount of bad gas remaining in the tank. Set the Ignition Stop Switch on the right handlebar to its OFF position. With the key, turn the ignition ON but do NOT start the engine. Next, press the Ignition Stop Switch to its ON position. The fuel pump will operate for approximately 3 seconds and you should be able to see fuel flowing into the gas container. Cycle the Ignition Stop Switch between its OFF and ON position until all of the bad gas has been pumped into the gas container. On my bike, I had to go through about 15 cycles to empty all of the remaining bad gas.
i. Turn the ignition off with the key.
j. Disconnect the spare fuel hose from the fuel pump and reconnect the bike's fuel hose to the fuel pump. Remove the prop rod and lower the tank, securing its front end with the two bolts.
3. Add at least one gallon of fresh gas, preferably two gallons, to the fuel tank. You should now be able to start the engine and enjoy a ride!
Hope you find this posting useful. Cheers.
For lack of sufficient riding, the gas in my 2002 Hayabusa went bad and the engine would not start. I took the approach given below to empty the bad gas from the tank and, also, the fuel pump. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the bad gas in the fuel pump be removed along with the bad gas in the tank, since it's the gas in the fuel pump that first enters the combustion chambers when turning the ignition on and starting the engine.
I started by checking the spark plugs and noticed that they were wet from the unignited bad gas. I decided to replace them before starting the process of replacing the bad gas, so that the plugs would be fire-ready when new fresh gas entered the chambers. NOTE: after changing the plugs, do NOT turn the ignition on or start the engine until AFTER having removed the bad gas from the tank and fuel pump; doing so will contaminate the new plugs with bad gas again. The ignition should not be turned on (except as noted in the steps below) or the engine started until after the bad gas in the tank and fuel pump has been replaced with fresh gas.
To remove the bad gas from the tank, I initially considered removing the tank and turning it upside down. However, based on previous posts, this would be time consuming and a very messy process, requiring a bucket to catch the splattering gas. Also, not all gas would be removed because of the inner lip on the tank gas spout.
Here's the approach I decided to take, which I think worked quite well. It is relatively easy, straight-forward and effective:
1. Siphon the bulk of bad gas from the tank. There are several ways to do it as covered in previous posts. I decided to purchase and use the Flotool "Shaker Siphon", Part # 10801, available for about $15 at Pep Boys. After siphoning as much as possible, bad gas will remain in the fuel pump and a small amount will remain in the bottom of the tank.
2. Remove the bad gas from the fuel pump and the small amount of bad gas remaining in the bottom of the tank. Do this by making use of the fuel pump in operation itself. Follow these steps:
a. Remove the seats.
b. Remove the two bolts at the top front of the fuel tank and prop up the front end of the fuel tank using the prop rod contained in the tool compartment under the passenger seat.
c. At the bottom of the tank, locate the attached fuel pump and where the bike's fuel hose connects to it.
d. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump by pinching the white plastic connector on both sides and pulling the fuel hose off the male-end metal tube extending from the fuel pump.
e. Connect a two-feet section of fuel hose to the male-end metal tube from the fuel pump. I used a spare piece of 5/16" (7.9mm) fuel injection hose that I had previously obtained at Pep Boys. The hose fits snug enough to the metal tube to not require additonal fasteners, for the purpose at hand.
f. Put the other end of the fuel hose into a gas container to be used for draining the bad gas.
g. Gently lower the tank. If the weight of the tank pinches the fuel hose too much, place a small block of wood or other material between the tank and frame so that the weight of the tank doesn't pinch the hose. The thickness of the block should only be slightly larger than the diameter of the hose so that the tank can be lowered as much as possible to its normal position.
h. We are now ready to drain (actuallly pump) the bad gas contained contained in the fuel pump as well as the small amount of bad gas remaining in the tank. Set the Ignition Stop Switch on the right handlebar to its OFF position. With the key, turn the ignition ON but do NOT start the engine. Next, press the Ignition Stop Switch to its ON position. The fuel pump will operate for approximately 3 seconds and you should be able to see fuel flowing into the gas container. Cycle the Ignition Stop Switch between its OFF and ON position until all of the bad gas has been pumped into the gas container. On my bike, I had to go through about 15 cycles to empty all of the remaining bad gas.
i. Turn the ignition off with the key.
j. Disconnect the spare fuel hose from the fuel pump and reconnect the bike's fuel hose to the fuel pump. Remove the prop rod and lower the tank, securing its front end with the two bolts.
3. Add at least one gallon of fresh gas, preferably two gallons, to the fuel tank. You should now be able to start the engine and enjoy a ride!
Hope you find this posting useful. Cheers.
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