How to build a stock ECU wiring harness from scratch?

HayabusaSandCar

Registered
Question 1:
I want to build a brand new wiring harness from scratch. Completely eliminating anything and everything that will cause the ECU to prevent the engine from starting and running normally. The car is using a stock ECU, stock gauge cluster, Toggle switch on/off ignition, and push button start. I want to make it as simple as possible. Ive read that there are certain resistors that need to go in certain places and certain wires need to be grounded, and some need to connect in other places. Can anyone help with some solid information on how to do this? Or a diagram that you have used that you know is legit?

Question 2:
Suzuki America is telling me that based on my engine number, it is a year 2000 engine. That being said, i don’t believe the ecu or wire harness is from the same year. Comparing serial numbers on ECUs on ebay and judging by a few wire color differences on the harness, I think my ECU and wiring is 2005ish. Is there a way to identify the model year of the ECU in case i need to buy a replacement?


Ive been reading posts on this forum for weeks now trying to figure out how to fix what i did with no luck. This is what i did… i tried to “clean up” the wiring that looked like a big mess on a perfectly fine running engine. In the process i must have removed, or changed something i shouldnt have, because now i have a flashing F1 light and the engine will no longer start. Its very possible that i fried the ecu somehow when i originally rewired it. (This was BEFORE i started reading this forum and learning that there are switches that need to be bypassed and things that need to be wired a certain way to trick the ecu into letting the engine run) After i failed at the wiring job i found someone on a facebook group that had a diagram print out that i believe had all the bypasses done for all the “safety switches”. He sent me the diagram and i wired it to match. Still wont start. No spark. Dont know if the diagram was bogus or missing something or If I missed something. Ive triple checked everything. Could be a bad ECU. Its just very confusing to me because the way it was wired before it did not have the “turn signal/side stand relay”. The diagram i used had the relay so i wired that relay back in so it matched to make sure it mirrored the diagram. Im at the point where i wana just start over from scratch.
 
Welcome, your request for help on this project is not an easy ask…. We are really bike guys with standard or slightly (ahem) modified engines in bike chassis.
Sand rails and Busa powered car owners show up here occasionally looking for info similar to your needs, but honestly it’s pretty in depth and bordering on impossible diagnosing faults as you’ve described (and your problems are self created) over a forum such as this.
The 1999 and 2000 model Busas had an external fuel pump mounted into a bracket bolted to the throttle bodies above the crankcase right hand side. Also those models had an 8 bit ECU and not compatible with the 2001 to 2007 mag rotor and pickups.
To identify your wiring harness the early 99 and 2000 have a 2 pin connector on a short lead coming off the harness adjacent to the injector connectors that runs the fuel pump
The later harness has a different connector with more wires to the in-tank fuel pump.
The ECU identification between 8 bit and the later 16 bit I’m not aware of, but they are not interchangeable unless the corresponding mag rotor and stator with pickup is changed.
To read the fault code that makes your FI light flash, here’s the way to display the code… I know yours is not a bike, but find that connector and put the pin in it as shown in the vid.
The code will show in the upper LCD display on the dash.

Use the search function to find the codes, I recommend you get the manual downloaded (free) for the codes and the relevant causes of the faults and how to rectify these issues.
Also, get the wiring diagram from the manual.
That’s as much as I can tell you, there may be others here with more info but good luck
With sorting the harness etc.
 
Last edited:
Question 1:
I want to build a brand new wiring harness from scratch. Completely eliminating anything and everything that will cause the ECU to prevent the engine from starting and running normally. The car is using a stock ECU, stock gauge cluster, Toggle switch on/off ignition, and push button start. I want to make it as simple as possible. Ive read that there are certain resistors that need to go in certain places and certain wires need to be grounded, and some need to connect in other places. Can anyone help with some solid information on how to do this? Or a diagram that you have used that you know is legit?

Question 2:
Suzuki America is telling me that based on my engine number, it is a year 2000 engine. That being said, i don’t believe the ecu or wire harness is from the same year. Comparing serial numbers on ECUs on ebay and judging by a few wire color differences on the harness, I think my ECU and wiring is 2005ish. Is there a way to identify the model year of the ECU in case i need to buy a replacement?


Ive been reading posts on this forum for weeks now trying to figure out how to fix what i did with no luck. This is what i did… i tried to “clean up” the wiring that looked like a big mess on a perfectly fine running engine. In the process i must have removed, or changed something i shouldnt have, because now i have a flashing F1 light and the engine will no longer start. Its very possible that i fried the ecu somehow when i originally rewired it. (This was BEFORE i started reading this forum and learning that there are switches that need to be bypassed and things that need to be wired a certain way to trick the ecu into letting the engine run) After i failed at the wiring job i found someone on a facebook group that had a diagram print out that i believe had all the bypasses done for all the “safety switches”. He sent me the diagram and i wired it to match. Still wont start. No spark. Dont know if the diagram was bogus or missing something or If I missed something. Ive triple checked everything. Could be a bad ECU. Its just very confusing to me because the way it was wired before it did not have the “turn signal/side stand relay”. The diagram i used had the relay so i wired that relay back in so it matched to make sure it mirrored the diagram. Im at the point where i wana just start over from scratch.
H[. Check out Boost by Smith he is a sponsors on hear. you can get a new MAXX ECU.
 
Welcome, your request for help on this project is not an easy ask…. We are really bike guys with standard or slightly (ahem) modified engines in bike chassis.
Sand rails and Busa powered car owners show up here occasionally looking for info similar to your needs, but honestly it’s pretty in depth and bordering on impossible diagnosing faults as you’ve described (and your problems are self created) over a forum such as this.
The 1999 and 2000 model Busas had an external fuel pump mounted into a bracket bolted to the throttle bodies above the crankcase right hand side. Also those models had an 8 bit ECU and not compatible with the 2001 to 2007 mag rotor and pickups.
To identify your wiring harness the early 99 and 2000 have a 2 pin connector on a short lead coming off the harness adjacent to the injector connectors that runs the fuel pump
The later harness has a different connector with more wires to the in-tank fuel pump.
The ECU identification between 8 bit and the later 16 bit I’m not aware of, but they are not interchangeable unless the corresponding mag rotor and stator with pickup is changed.
To read the fault code that makes your FI light flash, here’s the way to display the code… I know yours is not a bike, but find that connector and put the pin in it as shown in the vid.
The code will show in the upper LCD display on the dash.

Use the search function to find the codes, I recommend you get the manual downloaded (free) for the codes and the relevant causes of the faults and how to rectify these issues.
Also, get the wiring diagram from the manual.
That’s as much as I can tell you, there may be others here with more info but good luck
With sorting the harness etc.
Kiwi, Thank you for the reply and info! Got me thinking alittle. I believe my wire harness is gona be either a 2001 or 2002. My harness has 2 identifying factors. A light gray wire from the gauges that powers up the lights in the gauges which the 03 and later models dont have. And also, a black/light green wire that the diagrams show going to the fuel level portion of the fuel pump wiring that the X and Y models dont have. With that being said, do you think my wiring harness should be compatible with an 01-07 ECU?
 
I have built two "harnesses" for my stand alone
BARE minimum stuff and the factory ECU works
NOT a quick and simple thing
Totally understand itll be time consuming. Ive went through the entire harness already and shortened wires and got rid of more than i should have . Looking for someone that might have a diagram or would be willing to give me a list of changes that need to be made. Would be greatly appreciated
 
You can download the service manuals free here.
A used wiring harness and ecu can be found on ebay, and occasionally here.
Also from online motorcycle salvage yards.
This may be your least expensive route.
As aside from incorrectly rewiring something, the odds are that you have damaged the ecu...which there is no way to test, aside from putting it into a compatible year bike and trying it.
Also, you may have a different wiring harness from a different year on your engine.
Reason being; 1999 and 2000 ecu's/wiring are the same.
2001 ecu is of it's own, it works with no other years.
2002-2007 are all the same.
99-00 have no factory restrictions, but the ecus cannot be flashed.
2001 Does have restrictions, and also cannot be flashed(you need a smartTRE to eliminate lower timing and top speed).
2002-2007 have restictions as well...but their ecus Can be flashed.
You can also retrofit 2002-2007 on 99, 00, and 01.
You need the 02-07 ecu, and a few other parts.
There is a 'how-to' thread here explaining the fairly simple process.
So, you may very well already have the ecu and a few other bits from an 02-07.
You may not, but it is a common mod, for it's tuneability, and could explain the differences in years between the engine and the harness.
 
Michael, thanks for the reply. Ive seen him lot on here and have checked out his page. Thatll be a “if all else fails” direction. That set up aint cheap im hoping to fix what i have. Just gota figure it out. It was running fine before i messed with it.
Hi. I know my MAXX Race H2O was $2,100.00 and my MAXX PDM was another $2,100.00 and that is not doing the wiring. I also went with all mill spec wiring. As I am controling a Garrett G 42-1200c turbo with NOS.
 
Michael, thanks for the reply. Ive seen him lot on here and have checked out his page. Thatll be a “if all else fails” direction. That set up aint cheap im hoping to fix what i have. Just gota figure it out. It was running fine before i messed with it.
You could get by with one of the lower cost Maxx ECU's. The Mini would work, but I'd want the Street so that you get wideband closed-loop functionality. You would have a few extra things to buy like a coil driver and maybe some sensors, but you would have more capability with the Maxx than with the stock ECU. They are easy to wire up if you take your time.

 
Totally understand itll be time consuming. Ive went through the entire harness already and shortened wires and got rid of more than i should have . Looking for someone that might have a diagram or would be willing to give me a list of changes that need to be made. Would be greatly appreciated
This is the pinout for my standalone megasquirt
These are what is needed to run

Tip over, side stand and whatnot switches are all not to ecu but fuel pump relay coil voltage ect
Busa 60 pin connector FOR MS3.png
 
You can download the service manuals free here.
A used wiring harness and ecu can be found on ebay, and occasionally here.
Also from online motorcycle salvage yards.
This may be your least expensive route.
As aside from incorrectly rewiring something, the odds are that you have damaged the ecu...which there is no way to test, aside from putting it into a compatible year bike and trying it.
Also, you may have a different wiring harness from a different year on your engine.
Reason being; 1999 and 2000 ecu's/wiring are the same.
2001 ecu is of it's own, it works with no other years.
2002-2007 are all the same.
99-00 have no factory restrictions, but the ecus cannot be flashed.
2001 Does have restrictions, and also cannot be flashed(you need a smartTRE to eliminate lower timing and top speed).
2002-2007 have restictions as well...but their ecus Can be flashed.
You can also retrofit 2002-2007 on 99, 00, and 01.
You need the 02-07 ecu, and a few other parts.
There is a 'how-to' thread here explaining the fairly simple process.
So, you may very well already have the ecu and a few other bits from an 02-07.
You may not, but it is a common mod, for it's tuneability, and could explain the differences in years between the engine and the harness.
 
Thanks for the info six pack!! I have the factory manual and i think a good diagram showing how it needs to be wired to run a on/off switch and push button ignition. I believe i have it wired correct. I was able to jump the white/red and black/white wire to get a code on the dash. Showing C23 tip over sensor. Manual says it needs 60-64ohms resistance. I had incorrect resistor (68ohm) bypassing it. I just replaced it with 2 parallel 120ohm resistors and tested it and its right at 60.5-61ohms so it SHOULD be good now, but its still showing code C23 on the dash and wont start
 
Thanks for the info six pack!! I have the factory manual and i think a good diagram showing how it needs to be wired to run a on/off switch and push button ignition. I believe i have it wired correct. I was able to jump the white/red and black/white wire to get a code on the dash. Showing C23 tip over sensor. Manual says it needs 60-64ohms resistance. I had incorrect resistor (68ohm) bypassing it. I just replaced it with 2 parallel 120ohm resistors and tested it and its right at 60.5-61ohms so it SHOULD be good now, but its still showing code C23 on the dash and wont start
68K Ohms (68,000), not 68 Ohms
 
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