how to lower a busa
- Thread starter 07blubusa
- Start date
I'm 5' 7" and lowered mine last year. Only regret is not doing it when I bought the bike in '04.
I dropped the front 1.25" using spacers that allow the forks to slide up in the triple tree. Dropped the rear 2" by replacing the factory dog bones with aftermarket. Plenty of vendors on ebay sell these parts. Total cost was about $50 bucks. Then you need another kickstand which can be bought on ebay for around $20. Grind the stop areas so it swings further foward and gives the bike the additional lean it needs (same as the kickstand mode everybody does but just remove a little more material). Keep your original stand in case you decide to put it back to stock height.
There are more expensive ways such as custom triple tree top clamps or screw type dog bones that allow infinite adjustments vs. the 2" or 3" or stock settings on mine.
Straps can be used on the front forks but that's a hillbilly option when used outside a drag strip.
I dropped the front 1.25" using spacers that allow the forks to slide up in the triple tree. Dropped the rear 2" by replacing the factory dog bones with aftermarket. Plenty of vendors on ebay sell these parts. Total cost was about $50 bucks. Then you need another kickstand which can be bought on ebay for around $20. Grind the stop areas so it swings further foward and gives the bike the additional lean it needs (same as the kickstand mode everybody does but just remove a little more material). Keep your original stand in case you decide to put it back to stock height.
There are more expensive ways such as custom triple tree top clamps or screw type dog bones that allow infinite adjustments vs. the 2" or 3" or stock settings on mine.
Straps can be used on the front forks but that's a hillbilly option when used outside a drag strip.
I am 5'9" and have a 29" inseam. Dropped the front 1" originally with reaper 1" risers (slid the forks back up to the top clamp cover, but now I have an aftermarket that they can slide through.
Going down 1" in front and buying a TOBIN seat that takes away a bunch of seat material (but is still comfy) was enough for me to be on firm balls of my feet...can't quite touch down both heels when at a stop. However I can lean slightly to one side and have one flat.
However keep in mind that all you need to be concerned with when lowering is getting it low enough to get the balls of your feet on the ground so you don't tip over at a stop. Getting flat footed shouldn't be the point. Balls of your feet are just as good at everything except maybe backing the bike up, however I can manage fine...
Going down 1" in front and buying a TOBIN seat that takes away a bunch of seat material (but is still comfy) was enough for me to be on firm balls of my feet...can't quite touch down both heels when at a stop. However I can lean slightly to one side and have one flat.
However keep in mind that all you need to be concerned with when lowering is getting it low enough to get the balls of your feet on the ground so you don't tip over at a stop. Getting flat footed shouldn't be the point. Balls of your feet are just as good at everything except maybe backing the bike up, however I can manage fine...
Aside from the usual lowering methods using spacers or some type of triple tree clamp replacement for the front along with dogbones for the rear a person of your stature could benefit from a cut seat. You could gain another inch or so by having your seat Tobinized. My bike is lowered 1.25 in the front and 2 or so in the rear. But there is a big difference between by buddies bike and mine which are lowered the same. The reason why my bike feels so much higher to him is because his seat has been cut down an inch.
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