Im a virgin

bosshogg12

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Whats up folks. Today I will attempt to do a oil change. Never done it myself before. Anyone have any tips to make sure I dont screw up. Thanks.. in advance.

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I use exam gloves while doing oil changes. With a car oil change, I used to spend just as much time washing the crap off my hands than doing the actual oil change. The gloves also give me more grip as I only hand tighten oil filters.

The rest of the org will chime in with more mechancal advice.
 
You'll need to remove the brake side fairing. Small push pin near the radiator under the nose, large push pin near tank under speedo, allen screen in same area, all allen screws in fairing, make sure you look underneath. Remove front seat and lift tank. pull fairing up and back carefully not to scratch it or the nose.

If the bike is on the side stand - just pull the oil plug and let it drain for a while. I do mine with the bike hot for a good drain. Then loosen the filter until it starts to drain. It should drain between the tubes. When it is completely drained, remove the filter carefully turning the open end up and removing it from the engine area.

Put some oil on the o-ring of the new filter and spin it on. I hand tighten mine. Six oil changes no drips. Replace oil plug. Snug it good, but don't get carried away. Fill with close to 4 quarts of oil. Ride like you stole her. She'll knock for a few seconds after cranking.
 
BLUE PAINTERS TAPE !!!!! Very important whenever you are removing fairings, because the screw clips will scratch when trying to get the fairing loose. ( I know this ) tape anlong the edge where fairings meet.

I personally dont remove the seat or lift the gas tank. Place a rag on top of the headers below the oil filter as it will drip when you take it loose.

I only hand tight the new filter firmly as I can but dont crank it down with an oil filter wrench. Then of course check for leaks before replacing the fairing.

Most of KEEP THAT beautiful bike BEAUTIFUL!
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Small tip...when removing the oil filter, you'll drip oil on the pipes unless you're MacGyver up there (aka dadofthree) and it'll smell when it burns off. I kind of like this
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but many here cover said pipes with aluminum foil or a piece of cardboard to avoid the mess...

P.S. I've never had to lift the tank to remove fairings 'cause I've got skillz...
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Alot of people overtighten the drain plug and strip it out. Get a tourqe wrench and do it right. If you strip it, you will kick yourself.
 
When I did my oil change for the first time I had trouble getting the oil filter off, as it is in a tight spot and I am kind of weak  
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...  But my oil filter wrench was too big to get in there so I used my belt to get it off.  If you have this problem just get an old belt, wrap that sucker around the filter and crank down on it and it'll come off.  This may be alittle obvious for some.
 
Alot of people overtighten the drain plug and strip it out. Get a tourqe wrench and do it right. If you strip it, you will kick yourself.
+1 on this one. I personally do it by feel - 1 ft long wrench and about 10 lb of force, and another notch just a tad stronger makes it around 10 - 15 ft lb. Spec calls for 16 ft lb IIRC.

Warm up the engine for a few min so the oil is warm and drains easier.

Don't try to catch the drain plug - let if fall into the pan. Get it out later. If the oil is still hot, you can burn yourself trying to catch this baby.

Once you are done, wipe out oil from around the plug and around the filter. Let the bike idle until it goes to operating temp, and wait till all oil burns from the pipes. While the bike is still running, get a good flashlight and look carefully around the drain plug and the oil filter to make sure there are no real oil leaks.

Check your oil plug before and after each ride - make sure it's still there and there are no leaks - make it a part of your pre-flight/post-flight checks.

I also use K&N oil filters - they have a nut right on the filter so it's easy to unscrew/tighten them with a regular wrench (I think 19 mm, not sure). Just do it slowly as the wrench may slip.

Good call regarding aluminum foil. I used that a couple of times. Most of the oil doesn't go on the pipes, still a little bit manages to get on it - burns away in a few minutes after the bike gets to the temperature.
 
Small tip...when removing the oil filter, you'll drip oil on the pipes unless you're MacGyver up there (aka dadofthree) and it'll smell when it burns off.  I kind of like this
laugh.gif
but many here cover said pipes with aluminum foil or a piece of cardboard to avoid the mess...

P.S.  I've never had to lift the tank to remove fairings 'cause I've got skillz...  
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u might want to partially fill the filter so when u start your engine it dont run dry for very long
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It's as easy as the manual says,you do have a manual right? Small flat band type oil wrench works best(buy one,you'll thank your self)and when the filter contacts the mounting surface-make a mark on the filter and case with pen, no more than two full turns like the manual says. Don't over do the drain plug,the oil pan is made out of aluminum.

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I make a mark on plug and pan so to know where I'm at, does not necessarily line up when crushing new or using old was washer, helps me not strip it out if not using torque wrench.

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I use aluminum flat washers, comes off the plug easy after they've been crushed. Notice the dark stuff on the napkin,thats what was stuck on drain plug magnet.

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Great advice by everyone, but check that Damn crush washer on oil pan bolt. Thats the problem with oil pan strippage. Learned the hard way.
 
Making a mark when filter contacts mounting surface really helps to know how far your turning the filter.

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