Installation of velocity stage 1, how to's?

[V8N3T]

Hi again, I've been quoted roughly 4,000$ - $4,200 for a Velocity Stage 1 kit. And $1,200 of labor to install, and $300 to Dyno before the Install and after mapping and setup they Dyno again to show Before and After results.

Now I'f I could save that $1,200, and put it towards an intercooler and/ or water injection to help from future problems. And do the Install my self, how hard is it to install this kit? Or any others, we have a place to do it here on Base with all the tools and stands needed. Also, is there a "How-To" out there?

Once installed, and not mapped out. Would it be possible to ride to the local shop here to get them to Map and Dyno it out? Or would that be to much of a risk. I am looking at doing this Stage 1 turbo Smartly. Not looking for any longterm problems.

I will be going fast on it, for long periods of time. So I'm trying to determine weather or not to get Stage 1, or 2. I want to get everything necessary to run turbo, on a day to day basic with NO PROBLEMS.

Please I'f you have any recomendations on which turbo to get, wether it be Stage 1 or 2, Installed my-self, or having the local shop install it for $1,200.....please let me know. Thanks.

I also wanted to ask, "What is the difference in the Stage 1 kits from Velocity, Ghetto, and 1320straightliners?

Velocity = http://www.velocityracing.com/core/turbos2005/hayabusa_stage_one.htm
Ghetto = http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID5118....HP.aspx
1320 = http://www.1320straightliners.com/PhotoGa....Stage+1



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[STUNNAH]

If you have the mechanical skill you can do the install on a stage 1...A stage 2 would require the motor being pulled for the install of a spacer plate...

If you do the install work out the same price for the dyno before and after...And the kit runs rich so riding it to the shop would not be and issue...

Only problem I see is that you mention that you will be going fast on it for lone periods of time???Can you help us out with that...

All the basics kit are about tit for tat...It's customer service that makes the sell...Motorhead/Burt...

 

[V8N3T]

ahh thank you, i thought it was just about that. And yes, I will be going fast for long bursts. Like when we rode in FL, we would ride for 6hours at a time some times. And thats including 180mph+ bursts in strait aways. Now of course if I installed a turbo I would be a bit more cautious about top end runs, but If I did want to do those I would like the bike to support it and not have heating issues.

Also, are there any detailed "How To's" out there? To install a turbo? Just from looking at the basic components of the turbo kit, it looks like its a bolt on kit. Need some more feedback please, trying to save some money on labor and use it in the important area's which I may have neglected here.



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[nitrousjunkie]

The Velocity stage one isnt hard to install,some of the directions arent covered in the book,but you'll get it,also you can call Velocity and talk to Barry.If youre gonna do top end blasts,I highly recommend an intercooler or water injection WITH straight C-16 racing fuel and some timing pulled out with a PC3R to prevent you grenading the engine.Feel free to PM me with any questions ref: the install.NJ.

 

[V8N3T]

ok, so to clarify. If I were to turbo, I wouldnt be able to do top end run's like you can do normally on a stock busa? Unless you do a intercooler? I dont understand the concept of putting a turbo on a busa if you cant do top end run's. Seems like a reverse on the bike. I want to increase performance, want to break 220hp+ without nos, but dont want to hinder the longevity of my bike's(engine) life.

 

[TurboProstreet]

Compressing air makes heat, hot air and cyl. pressure causes detonation. Hense the longer you top out the bike the hotter the air the more prone to detonate. Nitrous will detonate more quickly and violently usually throwing things out your motor instead of just a head gasket and maybe pistons like with a turbo most the time.
With an intercooler you cool the intake temps which will lets you top it out longer because the faster you go the more it cools the intake charge (to a point). When your intake temps get to hot your pump gas is not designed for the temps and can preignite from the heat and pressure in the cyl. with a turbo. hense you can lower the compression (less cyl. pressure), run an intercooler (cools intake temps), or run race gas (fuel is designed to burn slower and not ignite from temps and pressure) or all the above if you have to go to Bonneville. The turbo even with the temp issue for topping out will make far more reliable power then nitrous and is way easier on your motor for the long term. So basically to go faster, there is no free ride except to leave it stock.
I prefer the RCC kits which are the same as 1320's. The lines come precut and are routed correctly. If you get the volocity kit throw the fuel lines in the trash and start over. You want your fuel system hoses to be as straight as possible ( no kinks or 90 degree fittings) and run straight from the pump to the fuel rail. You don't want 90 degree fittings coming in and out of every piece in the system (restricts the fuel flow like putting kinks in your garden hose). It takes more work to do this but you get safer results in the long run.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST. Never trust any map that comes with any kit to be right under boost. It's good that your going to the dyno. If your not on boost your not going to hurt it riding it there. You may foul the plugs and need to change them before your tune but you'll be ready to go. Hope that all made a little sense?



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