Installed Pictures of ABM / LSL bar kit sold by Spiegler in the USA .

[c10]

Ill just start with Remove your factory mirrors , and have no plans to use them with this kit . Your Knuckles will touch the mirror , and if you cover the brake/clutch while turning full lock you will jam your fingers under the mirrors .

Over all it is pretty easy install . Obvious jack the bike up securely to remove the OEM top clamp . Now if you own a 2013 or later ABS model Busa make sure you have the correct ABS line in your kit . If you brake a line with dual banjos labeled brake master its incorrect . One end should have a flare fitting with nut to attach to the ABS pump on the left side of the bike .

Notes remove both side fairings , Tank , and air box . This makes line routing easier with the air box out of the way , and removal of the stock lines easy as well.
The left fairing alum bracket is also the clutch line holding/routing clamp . It will be to large for the New Spiegler steel line , but a slight crimp of it with pliers will secure the new line like the OEM line .

Top triple install . Make sure to install the half dollar size space correctly ! Bevel facing towards the frame not towards the new top clamp .

Your stock ing switch is now exposed , bare , and UGLY ! take the time to clean , and paint it gloss black or whatever color you desire .
FYI a ORANGE electrical wire nut works well to cover the Key hole from paint .

Follow all line routing instructions by the instructions . They work !

Wind screen trimming . Take your time , painters tape will give you a good guide line to follow for cutting . A course half round file works well for givine you a rounded shape where the two cuts intersect . Then the flat side can be used to make the leading edge rounded as well .

If you have Brembo 2013 plus brakes the bleed nipples are located in a bad location ! remove one at a time off fork leg , but leave your brake line attached .
A 16 mm wrench works well for keeping pads apart the same thickness of you rotor . Bleed / reinstall on fork leg . FYI good time to use a gun cleaning brush to clean pistons around seals on your calipers .

Also you dont want to screw up the location of your hand controls so measure carefully , and you dont need to drill all the way through the bar .

 

[nosbig]

Great write up. Looks good.

 

[c10]

Also something to NOTE you will not fit as much brake fluid into your mater cylinder due to the angle of them on the supplied bars . Use your judgment , and remember the black
diaphragm takes up space in the master so if you fill to high it will get pushed out of the edge of the master when you put all covers/diaphragms back together .

 

[Bus AZ]

Some good looking modifications you have there brother

That riding position looks good.

 

[Tony Nitrous]

If you swap the half moon clamps on the back of the mastercylinders with ones that have the upright posts you will be able to use bar mounted mirrors (Im not a fan of bar end mirrors) I used the half moon clamps from a GSX1400 and they were quite cheap from Suzuki. I'd guess some others like maybe a B-King? may fit too?

 

[Tony Nitrous]

When I bought my ABM top yoke they asked me what risers I wanted too.
They recommended slight pull back ones to clear the fairing, or more straight upright ones for a naked bike.

 

[Tony Nitrous]

I found all factory switch gear looms fitted with a little rerouting, as did the throttle and choke / fast idle cable. All stock and reused. The clutch and brake hoses just reached (I had Renthal 789 bars) but I wasn't happy with them being a little tight so changed both to braided lines whilst everything was in bits.

 

[sixpack577]

What is that thin black bar on the left/innner side of the throttle grip?
Not the flat throttle rocker on the outside.

 

[sixpack577]

If you swap the half moon clamps on the back of the mastercylinders with ones that have the upright posts you will be able to use bar mounted mirrors (Im not a fan of bar end mirrors) I used the half moon clamps from a GSX1400 and they were quite cheap from Suzuki. I'd guess some others like maybe a B-King? may fit too?

The clamps/mounts from a B-King DO fit.
But even with those, the mirrors would still hit the windsheild.

 

[RedBusarider]

What is that thin black bar on the left/innner side of the throttle grip?
Not the flat throttle rocker on the outside.

It's a throttle lock.

 

[c10]

Throttle lock / cruise control . Bar end mirrors work well for me . :-)

 

[Tony Nitrous]

The clamps/mounts from a B-King DO fit.
But even with those, the mirrors would still hit the windsheild.

With the right risers and bars they don't touch the screen or fairing.

The downside is you do end up with the bars slightly further back that doesn't suit everyone.
I've ridden one like it and thought it was OK.

 

[RedBusarider]

Throttle lock / cruise control . Bar end mirrors work well for me . :-)

I don't mean to rain on your parade - But unless your throttle lock can maintain speed going up and down hills (or even little rises and falls on a mostly level road)
Then you can't really call it a cruise control - That's why I only listed it as a throttle lock. Sorry just need to call it like it is.

I have a Vista Lock Throttle Lock that I modified to fit on my Busa. On a totally flat road (if that even exists) it will keep the speed pretty well for a while.
But the slightest rise or dip in the road and my speed will change - sometimes a lot. My Concours has a McCruise unit and it holds the speed even going up a fairly
steep hill even better then my 4 wheel vehicles do, which is saying something as they do pretty well too. Also with a throttle lock it would be almost impossible to change
speed by only 1 mph at a time, unlike a true cruise control unit can.

The nice thing you have going for you, is you have a Gen II Busa and a Rostra can be added to it and it will work.
I and many others have tried to install a Rostra on a Gen I and I never got it to work. Whereas many have installed them on a Gen II and they work well.

 

[sixpack577]

With the right risers and bars they don't touch the screen or fairing.

The downside is you do end up with the bars slightly further back that doesn't suit everyone.
I've ridden one like it and thought it was OK.

Yeah, I can see it work with the bars positioned back a little further.

 

[busafan08]

Nice work and thanks for the info but for me I like to keep a bike on its design briefs for example if you want a more comfortable bike get a bike thats more comfortable slow fast ect just saying

 

[bigoltool]

Good write up! I have always wanted to do a set of tubular bars on mine but the ergos with my Helibar/Genmar riser are so comfy it just gets overlooked for other goodies usually. That being said, I was looking at the new GSX-S1000F and it seems that Suzuki might just have almost all of the parts you might need to make this swap with OEM parts and get a FATBAR in the process.

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product...~/media/9AE628079FDF41A99EE9C9D1A1F21531.ashx

 

[bigoltool]

Heres a pic of the OEM Suzuki parts.

 

[Cantab]

The BKing looks as tho a way to go as well , triples etc - from mcanters (?) project. :agree:

 

[bigoltool]

The BKing looks as tho a way to go as well , triples etc - from mcanters (?) project. :agree:

Agreed, I just like the looks of the Fatbar personally.

 

[sixpack577]

Agreed, I just like the looks of the Fatbar personally.

I'de like to put those bars/clamp on a late model gsxr1k with no fairings.
I bet it would bolt up with little modifications.