Installing a Purolator Pure One oil filter on a Gen I Hayabusa

AJAY

Registered
This is a writeup on the hows and whys of installing a Purolator Pure One oil filter on my 2007 Suzuki Hayabusa. This writeup was inspired by the analysis done by Mike Lawrence on his Oil Filter Comparison web page (Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison, the “CalSci†page).

I’ve separated this into two separate postings. The first is posting below is a detailed technical discussion (fairly long). If you like techie stuff like I do, maybe this will help you decide if you want to bother with this mod for your Busa. That choice is entirely up to you and I am not advocating anything.

The posting following this one is on the mod installation. (much shorter)

DETAILED TECHNICAL DISCUSSION

Suzuki uses a filter with an uncommon 20 x 1mm thread, which somewhat limits which filters can be used, in contrast to most other motorcycles, which use a more common (and coarser) 20 x 1.5 mm threaded filter. The author of the CalSci page cuts apart and studies the construction details of more than 10 oil filters, and concludes that most of the filters are, at best, mediocre. He also states that the Purolator Pure One model PL14610 is by far superior than all other filters available, stating “This is how an oil filter should be made. The anti-drainback valve is double the thickness of any other here, and obviously seals very well. The media is the best available, and there's a lot of it. The bypass valve is made from a laser-cut piece of stainless steel, and just can't bind or jam.â€

Unfortunately, the Purolator PL14610 uses the standard 20 x 1.5mm thread that doesn’t work on the stock Suzuki engine. The CalSci page references Bales Technical Services, which makes an oil filter adapter to convert a Suzuki to the standard 20 x 1.5mm thread, Bales Technical Service Oil Filter Adaptor for a mere $15 (shipped). Shipping was incredibly quick.

On to the details……

First, I reformatted the table in the CalSci web page to compare only the stock Suzuki filter and the recommended Purolator Filter. Note that some of the data is the opinion of the original author. I added the filter dimensions and the bypass valve pressure to the table, as I think these are relevant. Going through the table, you will see that the Purolator filter is half the price, so this conversion will cost you about $21 with the Bales Tech adapter, and you will reach break even on cost at approximately the second filter change. Cost, however, is a secondary consideration.

AREA OF THE FILTER MEDIA: For a given filter “fabricâ€, the resistance to oil flow will decrease as the area of the filter increases. Thus, a bigger filter will flow more easily, with less pressure drop for a given flow. You will see that the Suzuki filter has 71 sq. in. of media and the Purolator has 92 sq. in. This is a substantial 30% difference.

MEDIA QUALITY: I haven’t torn the filters apart, haven’t examined the filter material under a microscope, and have not assessed the capability of the filter to trap small particles. The rating of “C†for the Suzuki filter and “A: for the Purolator comes from the CalSci website. With that said, Purolator is often considered a top of the line filter. You can read up on that filter here: PureONE Oil Filters

BY-PASS VALVE SETTING: I added this to the table. By-pass valves allow oil to flow to the engine in the event that too much oil pressure is lost across the filter media. This can occur when the engine is cold and the oil is too thick to flow freely. It can also occur when the engine hits peak revs and the oil flow and pressure goes highest and its oiling needs are the greatest. Finally, it can happen when the filter is ridiculously clogged (which will never happen with anybody here on this forum!). Basically, if you could make the filter big enough, you would not need a bypass valve, but since the filter needs to be packaged on the engine somewhere, a bypass valve allows a smaller filter to be used, as most of the time your engine is warm and generally loafing along.

Quoting myself from another posting:
You do not need 100% filtration from the filter. Indeed, particle filtration quality is determined by both single pass and multi pass measurements. Most of the time, your oil is passing through the filter. The bypass valve just makes sure your engine has adequate oil flow through a wider range of engine operational conditions without requiring a huge filter to accomplish the task or the use of too coarse a filter that does not provide adequate filtration.
the filter IS indeed still proving oil filtration when the bypass valve opens; it's just diverting some of the oil flow past the filter so that the maximum filter restriction is equal to the bypass pressure.

It's sort of like a blowoff valve (BOV) in a turbocharger setup, where the exhaust pressure through the turbine is capped at some value (peak flow) and excess exhaust is ported around the turbine. The turbine still has flow through it. Just substitute "filter" for turbine and "oil" for exhaust and the analogy holds.

Back to the table, the Suzuki filter is set to bypass at 11 PSI and the Purolator filter is set for 14 to 18 PSI. To be honest, this bothers me a little. Indeed, I had selected a different filter, the Purolator PL14459 which bypasses at 12-14 PSI, but the can OD was too fat to fit past obstructions for installation on my Busa. So now I’m stuck with the higher bypass pressure of the PL14610 filter. This worried me at first, but upon further consideration, this filter has 30% more filter area than the Suzuki filter and is probably less likely to go into bypass in the first place because it should flow more oil for the same pressure drop as the smaller filter. I don’t have any hard data. Lots of people are using this filter on Honda and Kawasaki motorcycles. You’ll have to judge for yourself if this is a mod you want to do.

FILTER DIMENSIONS: The cans of the two filters are the same outside diameter, but you’ll see that the Purolator filter is a full inch longer. I was worried that it wouldn’t fit, but it does fit with room to spare and is quite simple to install.

Next, the installation...........

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THE INSTALLATION:

Full installation instructions are given on the Bales Tech website for removing the stock fitting and installing the new adapter.
Bales Technical Service OFA Installation Instructions

1) Remove right side fairing, drain oil, and remove the old oil filter.

2) At the suggestion of oRg member Wheelsinaz, I heated the fitting with a torch to soften the threadlocker from the OEM installation. I’m not sure this helps, as the fitting cooled off very rapidly after each heating, but it didn’t hurt either. I wrapped the nearby hoses in aluminum foil as a safety precaution in case I hit them with the torch accidently. (which didn’t happen :))

3) There is an oil line in the way and there is no way you’d get a pipe wrench in there without removing it or pulling the exhaust pipes. Instead, use a pair of Vice Grips to grab the threads of the old fitting and wrench it out. I originally grabbed the fitting at the base to save the threads and had successfully broken it free. It did not take all that much force, but it does take continued pressure to remove the fitting and you don’t have a lot of swing with all the plumbing in the way. Rather than risk damaging sealing surfaces on the engine block, I ended up just grabbing the threads of the fitting.

4) Clean the threads before installing the new Bales Tech adapter. I used acetone to help soften the old Loc-Tite.

5) Apply high-strength red Loc-Tite on the threads of the new adapter.

6) I think it takes a 21 mm socket. Torque to 120 in-lbs (10 ft pounds). This is a very light torque and was too light to really feel with my ½â€ drive click-type torque wrench. I ended up using an old 3/8†beam type torque wrench just because I was paranoid about stripping the threads.

7) I like to pour a few tablespoons of oil into the new filter to pre-saturate the filter media. Just don’t pour in so much that oil wants to come out of it as you install the filter. Roll the filter around to thoroughly wet the filter paper. Wipe a little fresh oil on the sealing gasket.

8) The Purolator PL14610 filter fits in easily. There is just a little more than 3-1/2 inches of clearance between the end of the adapter and the exhaust pipes. Even better, you can slide the filter up between the pipes as you orient it for installation, so there is a ton of room. The filter can be hand tightened very easily. After installation, there is about 1 inch clearance between the filter and the pipes.

9) Wipe off any dripped oil and use some brake cleaner to clean off your exhaust pipes.

10) I found a perfect funnel for filling with new oil. The threads on the Techron bottle aren’t a perfect match, but they screw in very firmly into the oil filler hole. Best funnel I’ve found yet!

So that’s all of it. I think this is an acceptable mod. I’m not making a yeah or nay recommendation. That decision is entirely up to you. All I’ve done here is definitively shown it can be done to a Gen I Busa and try to give some technical details. - AJ

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Although with my previous luck with threads breaking I think I will just hold off for a long time... It will take a long time to get my nerve back....
 
Although with my previous luck with threads breaking I think I will just hold off for a long time... It will take a long time to get my nerve back....
LOL! One downside is that once you go this route, you can't go back. Right now, I see no reason to. But then, the guinea pig doesn't know it until it hits him! :rofl:
 
LOL! One downside is that once you go this route, you can't go back. Right now, I see no reason to. But then, the guinea pig doesn't know it until it hits him! :rofl:

Well I will keep track of this and be sure and get your up to date opinion if I choose to do this... The part that scares me is the vice grip on the stock threads... What if I cant get the stock one out? Oops crunched threads! :banghead:.

That was the first things that came to my mind.... The horror....
 
Well I will keep track of this and be sure and get your up to date opinion if I choose to do this... The part that scares me is the vice grip on the stock threads... What if I cant get the stock one out? Oops crunched threads! :banghead:.

That was the first things that came to my mind.... The horror....
That was one of wheelinaz's concerns too, and why I heated it with a torch. It actually came out pretty easily. The biggest problem was the short amount you could turn the wrench (vice grips) between the oil line in front and the exhaust pipes. Really, was quite easy to do.

Oh, and that bigger filter does look nice in there. (pride goeth before the fall)
 
p.s......the original piece removed is available on bikebandit.com so I assume you could go back if desired?

desc. # 40: UNION,OIL STAND
part # 1516353(485637-001)
$5.32
 
i tried to figure out a way to get that filter to fit a while back after seeing his oil filter comparison! glad to see someone makes an adapter now
 
So, basically how much are you saving by going with this filter?? In the long run.
 
Also to the facts of the filter media, most of use change our bike oil long before it is due! SO the benefit is now minimal to even due this!
I could see it if i where going to start changing the oil on my bike at 5k intervals, but not at normal service intervals! :2cents:
 
Go to Advance Autoparts. They have a motorcycle listing with all types of oil filters. No modding needed.
 
Won't work with after factory headers, not enough room for the longer filter. Just enough room to get the factory filter out, at least with Ti Force pipes...
 
It's raining here :( so instead of riding I've been reading up on using car filters and the Purolator Pure One in particular on motorcycles. Lots and lots of users on the forums, many long distance Gold Wingers and such, 100,000 mile types, no reported problems. It appears cutting apart oil filters has become a freakin' national hobby!

My only concern has been about the bypass pressure setting being too high. Now I'm thinking it's probably a non-issue, especially if you run semi- or full-synthetic oil like I do. The "CalSci" website certainly thinks this is not a problem. Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters There's a ton of information here and his research is more extensive than I recognized earlier, even if I have a few (very few) quibble points on technical matters.

As I've been searching the web for more data, I found that quite a few of the filters marketed for motorcycles, even the ones specifically for Suzukis (including our Busas) have been tested and found to have really high bypass pressures, like 20 to 30 PSI! If those aren't damaging engines, then I'm comfortable with the bypass pressure setting of the Purolator.

As for "being stuck" with my decision to make this mod, well, not really. As one responder pointed out, I could reinstall the stock filter fitting (thanks Poppy!). Or even easier, I can just use the motorcycle-specific filters offered in the standard sized thread (e.g., Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha). I do need to clearly mark my bike somewhere that Suzuki filters will not work in case I ever sell it to someone else, which is not in the cards for the foreseeable future.
 
Looks like the Hy-Flo filters I've been using for years got a decent review, so that's probably what I'll continue to use. I use top quality synthetic oil and change it at 4000 mile intervals (sometimes sooner). Momentarily thought about swapping the filter screw adapter if I ever had the exhaust off, but after reading about clearance problems with aftermarket exhausts (the only reason I'd take the stock exhaust off), nix the idea.
One thing of interest I found was the example of the Wal Mart house brand Supertech 7317 filter getting rated as "better than average" for quality. The 7317 happens to be the exact filter my Mitsubishi pickup takes, and solves my dilema over saving a coupla bucks by using them.:thumbsup:
 
I have put about 400 miles on my bike since completing this changeover and no problems thus far. Bike has been redlined a couple of times, lots of spirited riding. Happy so far!
 
Idk yes the puroilator might filter better cause of its size but we're talki. About 1.50 difference in price between that and a gram 6018 and the adapter is 15 plus shipping so after 10 oil changes u might break even Idk if the work is worth the money
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