I am not sure right now, I'll have to look at my slips when I get home but they were a little slower then previous runs in MAY. Probably about a tenth slower until 1000' then about 2-3 tenths slower by the end. I understand that the E.t. can jump around some but the trap speed should be around the same each time for the most part. When my bike was running right back in early May, I could run 9.80's at 145.5 or 146.5 and I could run 10.teens at 145.5 mph. Once I even ran a 10.30 at 144. Last night on one pass I lit'em on the start an ran a 10.35 but only at 141.10 mph. No two ways about it I am about 2-3 mph off of what I used to be. Its only slower in the ET by about a tenth or so but in reality it should be quicker than the 9.80's I used to run by a tenth! I did need to lower the air pressure in the tire down from the 40 psi I was at to get a better launch and possibly shift a little faster but I have been riding exactly the same as the runs it May so....I don't know. There has been about what a 10 degree increase in temps or so but, I don't think it would make that much difference, I mean, dude, thats 15 hp or so, $hit! I'll check my slips and the plugs and let you know something tonight. Later Johnny!
JCheese or Mhead?
- Thread starter OB_ZXALAN
- Start date
Hey Johnny, BTW what was the size hose you used to seal the airbox snorkels to the frame holes? Obviously something flexible so it will form an oval but ball park figures, what size clamps did you use? I dont want the hose too big that it overlaps itself. Anything I need to know>? Thanks buddy!
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
It is a secret but inner tube and I glue them to the plastic tubes comming thru the frame and then zip tie it to the air box
It has to be TIGHT
It has to be TIGHT
Well,I checked the airbox, it lined dead up with the frame spigots judging by the foam imprints. I pulled the plugs, they were very clean, too clean I believe. The outer shell of the plug just before the threads start had a small black ring on it but not sooty or flaky by any means. The porcelain was white and the electrode and ground were both silver metal colored. No brown or black anywhere really. I think its a little lean so I mapped it 10,10,10. Seems like it runs the same, no noticeable change at all. I pulled the fuel pump apart and check the screens, all of them were crystal clear as was my inline filter. The inside of the pump was spotless so I just reassembled it and let it go. I guess I need to track test it at 10,10,10 and see what it does. I did find a guy who does tuning on a dyno with air/fuel readings but it is an eddy current brake dyno, they read real low hp numbers, like 145hp on a piped Busa, but I guess as long as his adjustments improve the hp that is all that matters. He charges $200, My previous tuner had a DJ150 with no air/fuel but he really only maps them one way 5,5,0. He said "that has worked the best for all of the Busas he has done, even with cams" so I dont think he knows $hit. Thats the one mine did 159 hp on with everything I had on it.He charges $100 for a map and dyno So far dragstrip testing has worked best but thats hard on the bike, fun though!Thanks for the Help Johnny, if you come up with any more tuning ideas for me, please let me know!
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
I would go +5+10+10
That tuner thinks that due to no ram air and NOW YOU HAVE ALOT OF IT.
Save your pennies you need a PC2 just like me my plugs were still WHITE when I got home
That tuner thinks that due to no ram air and NOW YOU HAVE ALOT OF IT.
Save your pennies you need a PC2 just like me my plugs were still WHITE when I got home
Whats up Guys?, Went to the track Friday night. First time out with the 42 tooth on the rear. Definetly wheelies more but manageable if I could shift a little better.(Shifting in the air, I mean)anyway I wasn't really expecting to run well with the lower gear and stock height and wheel base and temps in the mid to low 90's but here's what I did.
I averaged 10.0's at 144 mph and ran 9.96 at 144 mph twice. These were with 1.76 60's. What is very weird though is my 1/8mi speed ranged from 116mph to 121mph but My ending trap speed was always just 144. If you remember back in Early May I Was running 9.80's with the same 60' and same 1/8mi speed(118-121mph) but was running 145.5 average and many 146.0's-.8's on best runs. Since then I have changed to the full box mod, fresh plugs, many different mappings with the Yosh box,but this night all runs were at 10,5,5, clutch mod and up two teeth in the rear. I am going through the traps about 10k in fourth gear. It seems to me that my trapspeed is falling off after the 1/8mi. I tried shifting at different RPMs but it seemed that about 10.8-11k got the best mph.I am going to pull the plugs tonight and check em out. I am wondering if it may be leaning out some on the big end. I may try going 10,10,10. Any Ideas? I was having a Hard time hooking up to, If I left hard it would spin, I left easy it would power wheelie at about 7500 all the way till shifting time. I think the quickness of shifts and the Rpm play a BIG part of mph. I was clutchless shifting but maybe a little sloppy and I botched the 1st to 2nd shift several times. Thinking about a PS 3 but too broke right now. Think the heat slowed me on top any? I just want my trap speed back in the 146's. It used to be there when I had the half mod and 5,5,0. Should it mph more with the full box and 10,5,5? I thought going to the 42tooth might hurt the trapspeed thats why I ran it the weekend before the sprocket change but with the full box and still only ran 144. I hate to have to dyno it again because after I dynoed it last time it hauled a$$ but ran like $hit when cruising in the city. I like the 42 tooth and I will leave it on there so I want the trap speeds in the 146-7 range. Any help guys I appreciate! Also M head, I may want one of your ignition kills for the PS 3, what are you charging for it? I want the PS 3, but dont want the FI light. THANKS GUYS
I averaged 10.0's at 144 mph and ran 9.96 at 144 mph twice. These were with 1.76 60's. What is very weird though is my 1/8mi speed ranged from 116mph to 121mph but My ending trap speed was always just 144. If you remember back in Early May I Was running 9.80's with the same 60' and same 1/8mi speed(118-121mph) but was running 145.5 average and many 146.0's-.8's on best runs. Since then I have changed to the full box mod, fresh plugs, many different mappings with the Yosh box,but this night all runs were at 10,5,5, clutch mod and up two teeth in the rear. I am going through the traps about 10k in fourth gear. It seems to me that my trapspeed is falling off after the 1/8mi. I tried shifting at different RPMs but it seemed that about 10.8-11k got the best mph.I am going to pull the plugs tonight and check em out. I am wondering if it may be leaning out some on the big end. I may try going 10,10,10. Any Ideas? I was having a Hard time hooking up to, If I left hard it would spin, I left easy it would power wheelie at about 7500 all the way till shifting time. I think the quickness of shifts and the Rpm play a BIG part of mph. I was clutchless shifting but maybe a little sloppy and I botched the 1st to 2nd shift several times. Thinking about a PS 3 but too broke right now. Think the heat slowed me on top any? I just want my trap speed back in the 146's. It used to be there when I had the half mod and 5,5,0. Should it mph more with the full box and 10,5,5? I thought going to the 42tooth might hurt the trapspeed thats why I ran it the weekend before the sprocket change but with the full box and still only ran 144. I hate to have to dyno it again because after I dynoed it last time it hauled a$$ but ran like $hit when cruising in the city. I like the 42 tooth and I will leave it on there so I want the trap speeds in the 146-7 range. Any help guys I appreciate! Also M head, I may want one of your ignition kills for the PS 3, what are you charging for it? I want the PS 3, but dont want the FI light. THANKS GUYS
OB_THE MOTORHEAD
Registered
you gotta make sure your airbox to frame holes line up first and formost.i charge 125 for my kill and switch to activate it .damn i gotta get to makin some soon y hs3 should be in soon.you should get a pc2 i don't like the results from the yosh only adjustments
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
Whem I got back from houston my plugs were white on big end and I was +10+10+10
I and you need a PC2 Period
The 42 can hurt you topend speed a bit I think you were too lean plugs will tell.
Which plugs did you use?
Type\number
I and you need a PC2 Period
The 42 can hurt you topend speed a bit I think you were too lean plugs will tell.
Which plugs did you use?
Type\number
yeah Mhead, I have checked it and it is pretty close but I think I am going to cut the flanges off of the airbox snorkels, get two pieces of hose and clamp it all together to the spigots that hang off of the frame a little. I have to measure and make sure there is enough hanging off of the frame to clamp to though. I think it only sticks out about a 1/4" off of the inside of the frame. I also want a PCII but I am too broke right now. I am going to pull the plugs and check them but they already have about 400 miles on them and I think that is enough to stain them just from city riding. I should have put in a fresh set at the track and made some runs then checked them immediately after but you know how that goes. Do you think I can get accurate readings off of the plugs with this many miles. They were fairly hard miles too!! I am also thinking of checking the screen under the regulator to check for plugging but I doubt it. My bike is a 2000 and has had an inline fuel filter in it since 700 miles and the filter is still clean. I still have the carbon stuff on the intake valves eventhough I have ran Redline several times. I think my bike is about 3 mph off of what it should be in the traps so thats what, 10-15 hp easy I have lost somewhere? Hey Johnny, How could the 42 tooth hurt mph if I am still barely at 10k going through the traps? I would think that going through at around peak power should net the highest mph? Am I wrong? Anyway I ran it with the fresh plugs BEFORE the 42tooth and still only 144, so I don't think its the sprocket, What I can't figure out is why it hauls a$$ at the 1/8 mark(speed wise not e.t.,several 120mph runs)but it just doesnt pull as hard I guess on the big end. Think I should pull the fuel pump apart and check it. I never have had it apart, I figured since it was a 2k model and I have had an inline filter it would be OK but maybe...Thanks for the suggestions guys!!
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
Some times a larger rear sprocket does hurt 1-2 mph.
What were your 330' and 1000' times that is were I was having trouble rear shock not right and pogoing hurt.
Example 1st run
60' 1.725
330' 4.393
1/8 6.548 114.78
1000' 8.396
1/4 9.976 142.00
Pass #3
60' 1.923
330' 4.571
1/8 6.704 116.17
1000' 8.537
1/4 10.089 144.71
Slower e/t on my bike produces more MPH.
What were your 330' and 1000' times that is were I was having trouble rear shock not right and pogoing hurt.
Example 1st run
60' 1.725
330' 4.393
1/8 6.548 114.78
1000' 8.396
1/4 9.976 142.00
Pass #3
60' 1.923
330' 4.571
1/8 6.704 116.17
1000' 8.537
1/4 10.089 144.71
Slower e/t on my bike produces more MPH.
G
Guest
How many miles on the plugs? I have full box, pc2, pipe, 2500 on OEM orig, they look fine.
Lanta, fuel makes horsepower, if you picked up mpg that means you leaned the bike out which does not make horsepower. The Mhead box will lean out some, I am not sure how much though. You are probably losing a few ponies yourself from running lean. Either that or your were riding different between mileage checks(i.e. not riding like a man) What parts you have dude? pipe?gearing? Have you had it at the track? What do you weigh? Can I see your numbers?
G
Guest
DOH!!! I wrote that backwards, sorry. 38 TO 34.
00 blue, Sato 4-2-1, PC2 w/ 007HARV map, full box, cruddy dyno w/ cruddy operator 160.6 rwhp 4th gear roll on.
dyno analyser stuff all broken, tach input inop...
180 indicated pulling like crazy. Lost courage and let off.
[This message has been edited by 'lantabusa (edited 27 June 2000).]
00 blue, Sato 4-2-1, PC2 w/ 007HARV map, full box, cruddy dyno w/ cruddy operator 160.6 rwhp 4th gear roll on.
dyno analyser stuff all broken, tach input inop...
180 indicated pulling like crazy. Lost courage and let off.
[This message has been edited by 'lantabusa (edited 27 June 2000).]
Yeah, that sounds much better, 38 down to 34. How do you like the PCII and the 007harv map? Any coughs or hesitations around 2500 to 3k? Describe what your your plugs looked like when you checked them> By mph,I meant trapspeed at the drag strip not your top speed. Usually the trapspeed is a good indicator of horsepower although there are many variables that can deceive those numbers.Most stock busas with the average weight rider 170lbs or so run around 140mph in the trap. My friend has a stock 99 that runs 142-3mph but he only weighs about 150lbs. Dynoes are BS and you can get BS numbers on all of them,the track is what I care about. People always brag about hp and torque #'s but it is all BS, who cares! After all what good is a "171hp with a pipe and airbox!" if you can only run 10.30's @ 142. Seen it happen A LOT. My buddy is gonna crack your A$$ on a stock 99 that runs 10.0's@143. On the street, were money is concerned it don't matter how much HP you got, But we'll be glad to take their money!
OB_GSXRTURBO1
Registered
If you make more air available you will turn the throttle less to make the same HP. What I mean is that you may need less throttle cruising around with MH box, which in conjunction with the TPS may give you better MPG with the full box mod. Just a thought.
I agree with you on the dyno v.s. dragstrip, but good HP will only ensure good MPH. The rest (ET) is up to the rider/chassis.
I agree with you on the dyno v.s. dragstrip, but good HP will only ensure good MPH. The rest (ET) is up to the rider/chassis.
G
Guest
Haven't had on the strip, closest to me is almost 2 hours and no trailer.
Plugs are a perfect light brown(tan), when I pulled them I looked, sniffed, said hmm, put em back. Didn't even need cleaning. I had asked TMH about a lil black puff on throttle whack from idle, "don't worry about it" something about air velocity yadayada. I trust the dude totally.
Got 2500 on it, every day it gets a lil looser, a lil stronger, and a lil louder. Thinkin' my can is breaking in some(repacked 750 can ran like turd for 2 weeks then started sounding/running great) plus the bike is still breaking in.
I'm gonna re-dyno at another shop after I get the cleaned up throttlebodies from tmh on it, will letcha know.
Plugs are a perfect light brown(tan), when I pulled them I looked, sniffed, said hmm, put em back. Didn't even need cleaning. I had asked TMH about a lil black puff on throttle whack from idle, "don't worry about it" something about air velocity yadayada. I trust the dude totally.
Got 2500 on it, every day it gets a lil looser, a lil stronger, and a lil louder. Thinkin' my can is breaking in some(repacked 750 can ran like turd for 2 weeks then started sounding/running great) plus the bike is still breaking in.
I'm gonna re-dyno at another shop after I get the cleaned up throttlebodies from tmh on it, will letcha know.
OB_GSXRTURBO1
Registered
Lose the inline filter for a run or 2 to see if MPH goes up. It's a longshot, but worth a try. BTW, what brand/type of filter?
Gsxr, The filter is a Pro Flow glass 3/8" id. with removable screen and is similar to the isolator screen inside the fuel pump. I have 3/8" H.D. hose and it is extended about 4" on the feed side and routed to where there are no kinking restrictions. It is the same filter I dynoed with and the same filter I ran 146.80 mph with in the past. And yes it is clean as is everything else in the fuel system except the intake valves, they are kind of crudy. BTW the Pro Flow filter is the same one I ran on my LOW 12 second Trans Am with a 406" and it flowed enough for that so I don't think it is restricting this thing, but hell you never know. Maybe since the FI is high pressure and the filter is not maybe it could affect it somewhat but I doubt it. I can run it and watch it flow quickly through the filter. Maybe, I'll check fuel pressure. Thanks though Gsxr!
OB_GSXRTURBO1
Registered
Yeah, filters for carbs are designed to flow a volume of fuel at low pressure, same filter may seemingly work with FI but could be down on volume AND pressure. Best to use filters designed with high pressure FI systems in mind. With a filter problem it would likely show up in higher gears at higher RPMs, just where your problem is at. Good luck, please keep us posted..Tom G.
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