Yes folks it's true...I am that shameless and brash...but if you find that I'm insulting your intelligence?...then please accept my most profuse and sincere apology and feel free to add in your finest thoughts and expertise in any areas where I may have fallen short...and without further adue?...here's my first little tidbit offering as "Jinksters Tip Of The Week"...
"LEVERS": And by now you're probably asking yourself...
"What possible advice could anyone have to offer up regarding levers?...after all...they're only simplistic clevis arrangements that merely leverage and initiate the pumping action of our master cylinders to hydraulically actuate our clutch and front brake mechanisms via human finger power..what more is there to know?"
And to that I say..plenty...probably more than many here realize..hence why I take the time to type and share these few small but valuable hints/tips.
#1. Maintainence:
a. When's the last time you inspected your banjo fittings and inspected for any leakage?
b. Or took a glance at your fluid levels and/or color/condition?
c. Has it been over 2 Years or 20K miles since you last changed these fluids?
d. When's the last time you dis-assembled, cleaned and lubricated the pivot pins and bushings of the levers themselves? (levers can aquire a dirty/dry drag so incideousely slow over time you never realize just how smooth your levers aren't anymore until...you clean and lubricate them) and yes...you'd be surprised how smooth like newly lubricated they can be but aren't anymore.
Next?...
#2. "Proper Adjustment"
a. "Pinch Adjustment" is the tensioning that takes place when tightening up the nut on the pivot pins underside..as it closes the gap/slot which the actual cast aluminum lever mates to..to tight and it'll bind the lever...to loose?..and you'll be left with an excessive amount of verticle play which will yeild and transmit hand numbing vibrations which start at your fingers coverage of the levers themselves..adjust them for minimal play yet still demonstrate "Unimpeded Bind Free Movement"..your fingers/hands will thank you on the longer rides.
b. "Rotational Pitch Lever Adjustment" (And this is the one many folks ride all their lives and never figure out let alone benefit from)....as this is an ergonomic adjustment mating man to his machine...to operate together as one at optimum efficiency and effectiveness..and to achieve proper adjustment here you..
1. Loosen the lever assy. clamps so they will rotate on the handlebars.
2. Mount your bike and assume your natural/neutral upper body riding position/angle.
3. Now...with your fingers placed lightly atop the levers?...take notice of the angle of your fingers unto the top of your hand and...the angle of the top of your hand unto the top of your forearm..as with the levers properly adjusted for rotaional position?...THERE SHOULD BE NO ANGLES..and your fingers should be in dead alignment with your hand and your hand should be in dead alignment with your forearm...all in a dead straight natural position with all finger and wrist tendens in direct natural alignment ready for a clean straight back pull of the lever as the hands fingers naturally close their grip...straight in and...straight out...with no "Cocking" of the wrist or fingers to operate the levers...routing your controlling tendons much like a throttle cable...to exploit and maximize freedom of movement, comfort and control-ability and anything less IS less..
Rotate the levers to far downward?....and you'll find yourself straining to "reach over" for the levers and the pull will feel anything but.."Strong & Natural"...and will require excessive effort.
Rotate the levers to high up?...and as the wrist is now forced to be cocked downward?...this position places excessive pressure directly onto the heal of the palm of the riders hands resulting in increased felt vibrations and/or rapid wrist fatigue.
Hope that helps some and...L8R, Bill.
<!--EDIT|JINKSTER
Reason for Edit: None given...|1117643559 -->
"LEVERS": And by now you're probably asking yourself...
"What possible advice could anyone have to offer up regarding levers?...after all...they're only simplistic clevis arrangements that merely leverage and initiate the pumping action of our master cylinders to hydraulically actuate our clutch and front brake mechanisms via human finger power..what more is there to know?"
And to that I say..plenty...probably more than many here realize..hence why I take the time to type and share these few small but valuable hints/tips.
#1. Maintainence:
a. When's the last time you inspected your banjo fittings and inspected for any leakage?
b. Or took a glance at your fluid levels and/or color/condition?
c. Has it been over 2 Years or 20K miles since you last changed these fluids?
d. When's the last time you dis-assembled, cleaned and lubricated the pivot pins and bushings of the levers themselves? (levers can aquire a dirty/dry drag so incideousely slow over time you never realize just how smooth your levers aren't anymore until...you clean and lubricate them) and yes...you'd be surprised how smooth like newly lubricated they can be but aren't anymore.
Next?...
#2. "Proper Adjustment"
a. "Pinch Adjustment" is the tensioning that takes place when tightening up the nut on the pivot pins underside..as it closes the gap/slot which the actual cast aluminum lever mates to..to tight and it'll bind the lever...to loose?..and you'll be left with an excessive amount of verticle play which will yeild and transmit hand numbing vibrations which start at your fingers coverage of the levers themselves..adjust them for minimal play yet still demonstrate "Unimpeded Bind Free Movement"..your fingers/hands will thank you on the longer rides.
b. "Rotational Pitch Lever Adjustment" (And this is the one many folks ride all their lives and never figure out let alone benefit from)....as this is an ergonomic adjustment mating man to his machine...to operate together as one at optimum efficiency and effectiveness..and to achieve proper adjustment here you..
1. Loosen the lever assy. clamps so they will rotate on the handlebars.
2. Mount your bike and assume your natural/neutral upper body riding position/angle.
3. Now...with your fingers placed lightly atop the levers?...take notice of the angle of your fingers unto the top of your hand and...the angle of the top of your hand unto the top of your forearm..as with the levers properly adjusted for rotaional position?...THERE SHOULD BE NO ANGLES..and your fingers should be in dead alignment with your hand and your hand should be in dead alignment with your forearm...all in a dead straight natural position with all finger and wrist tendens in direct natural alignment ready for a clean straight back pull of the lever as the hands fingers naturally close their grip...straight in and...straight out...with no "Cocking" of the wrist or fingers to operate the levers...routing your controlling tendons much like a throttle cable...to exploit and maximize freedom of movement, comfort and control-ability and anything less IS less..
Rotate the levers to far downward?....and you'll find yourself straining to "reach over" for the levers and the pull will feel anything but.."Strong & Natural"...and will require excessive effort.
Rotate the levers to high up?...and as the wrist is now forced to be cocked downward?...this position places excessive pressure directly onto the heal of the palm of the riders hands resulting in increased felt vibrations and/or rapid wrist fatigue.
Hope that helps some and...L8R, Bill.
<!--EDIT|JINKSTER
Reason for Edit: None given...|1117643559 -->
