Kickstand

Hamlet2020

Registered
My gen 1 hayabusa leans too much for my liking. I just bought it and noticed it was lowered 3". I raised it back to stock with OEM rear suspension links and raising front forks back to stock. It was leaning about 40 degrees on the stand. I noticed the stand had been torched and bent some. I tried to heat it and rebend it but did not have the heat to do it. I called a guy in Tampa at a salvage yard and he pulled an OEM kickstand for me off a Gen 1 hayabusa. I remounted this one, and the lean is barely improved. I see that if I widen the foot plate, it will hit my muffler. So, I called a guy at a fabrication shop, and he said that he could lengthen either one of my stands. I am new to this stuff. Do you think this is a good idea? Any other thoghts?
 
Mine is fine but on another bike the leg was bent (bowed) a bit so I took it to a welder who heated it, straightend it and added a steel rod to the back of it which strengthened it even more. Good luck.
 
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I had to replace both the bracket, stand and the bolt on my Gen 2 as the holes had become enlarged and the stand had way too much movement. Once I replaced the 3 items, the bike straightened up from its "way too far" lean to a more normal lean. Plus I feel better knowing there's less chance of the stand snapping at some random time, (unlikely, but you never know)
 
Ok. I measured the lean on the hayabusa and it was high. With 1.25" of block under footplate it came out to be 10 degrees. My zx10r is 13 degrees with 190/55 like my busa has. I went to a welder shop, actually a guy who builds race cars here in Florida. He cut side stand then welded a 3" piece of steel into the stand, sanded and painted the area. Here are the results.
IMG_0015.jpg
 
The new lean angle on the sidestand is 10 degrees. I used the kickstand that came with the lowered bike because it bent around the muffler. The other unused one is stock. It cost 80$.
 
Also, I put new tires on it. Rear went to 190/55

a little info to the usual available sizes for the standard 6 x 17 rim and
what thy cause compared to the standard size 190/50-17 :

1. the 190/55-17 size raise the rear about 9.5 mm / ~3/8"

2. the 200/55-17 size raise the rear about 15 mm / ~5/8"

3. the 200/50-17 size raise the rear about 5 mm / ~1/4"

what then logically allways make a bigger inclination at the kick stand

and even my special "downgrade" at the gen1´s rear to 180/55-17 on a 5.5 x 17 rim cause a raise of 4 mm / ~ 3/16" and also a bigger inclination

all that i calculated with my special excel-sheet ;)
____________________________________________________________________________

now i digress a little, but more or less belongs here as well

in addition to the "downgrade", I built in 10 mm shorter links, which raise the gen1 by another 20 mm at the rear. (gen1 ratio is 1 : 2.0 , the gen2´s ratio is 1 : 2.3)

further on, I also lowered the nose 15 mm by pushing the fork further up.

on the one hand, all of this has led to the gen1 being much more agile
and
on the other hand, the angle of inclination has been brought back close to the original.
____________________________________________________________________________

something else about the angle of inclination on the side stand:
personally, i wouldn't reduce it that much, because the more vertical a motorcycle come, the easier it is for it to tip over to the right.
 
an in addition to my post above to an extension of the original stand :

what I see as an enduring lurking danger is
that the stand seems to be made of steel cast (its surface is incredibly rough) and ,
as a matter of fact ,
that steel cast is very, very difficult to weld
and
if this weld was not made by a very specialized welder,
this weld could break and the motorbike could tip over,
what could then lead to severe damage to the fairing.

taste or not - personally i would never expose my bike to this risk.

but as like as so often - each at his own ;)
 
a little info to the usual available sizes for the standard 6 x 17 rim and
what thy cause compared to the standard size 190/50-17 :

1. the 190/55-17 size raise the rear about 9.5 mm / ~3/8"

2. the 200/55-17 size raise the rear about 15 mm / ~5/8"

3. the 200/50-17 size raise the rear about 5 mm / ~1/4"

what then logically allways make a bigger inclination at the kick stand

and even my special "downgrade" at the gen1´s rear to 180/55-17 on a 5.5 x 17 rim cause a raise of 4 mm / ~ 3/16" and also a bigger inclination

all that i calculated with my special excel-sheet ;)
____________________________________________________________________________

now i digress a little, but more or less belongs here as well

in addition to the "downgrade", I built in 10 mm shorter links, which raise the gen1 by another 20 mm at the rear. (gen1 ratio is 1 : 2.0 , the gen2´s ratio is 1 : 2.3)

further on, I also lowered the nose 15 mm by pushing the fork further up.

on the one hand, all of this has led to the gen1 being much more agile
and
on the other hand, the angle of inclination has been brought back close to the original.
____________________________________________________________________________

something else about the angle of inclination on the side stand:
personally, i wouldn't reduce it that much, because the more vertical a motorcycle come, the easier it is for it to tip over to the right.
I might call on you one day for something very important.
 
The used kickstang cost $25. The fabrication, cutting and welding, cost $80. The guy who did the work may or may not know what he is doing. I was impressed by his shop where he builds race cars and restores muscle cars. He seems to hand fabricate frames, exhausts and other parts that he can't get anymore. I hope his welding is good. As an aside, when I raised the hayabusa back to stock and put on the 190/55 the handling has seemed to improve.
 
@Hamlet2020

it´s easy and allways a matter of fact

4 general rules

1. the more you raise the bike´s ass (as 1st step), how ever you cause it, the more the handling improves

2. the more you drop the nose (as 2nd step) the handling improves again

3. a (~760mm wide) superbike bar (as 3rd step) supports the whole handling improvement (see before) additionally

4. a rather flat tire profile at the front, seen in cross-section, will react less handy / manageable than a rather more pointed profile.

but

if you overdo it, a motorcycle can also lose some of its directional stability and behave unsteadily - the wide sb handlebar have no effect on this, as far as I know.
 
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