KTmoto headlights?

Blacksmith

Registered
Anybody use these? They look awesome and claim to be 300% brighter but they're kinda high. I'd like to have some personal reviews before deciding on them. I know I'm not satisfied at all with my stock lights and we've got quite a few deer and pigs around here when coming home in the evening/early night.

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Ive wanted one of those headlights since I got the busa but just couldn't find the extra cash, like @04LE said you could do it yourself and ive read a bunch of those threads but I feel like if I was gonna do it it'd spend the money and buy one already done
Yeah me personally I'd be more comfortable pulling and rebuilding the engine than I would be messing with electrical and lighting stuff like that. But when I pulled up the site and listed what I wanted it came up to $650 so that'll definitely have to wait a little bit. Idk though birthday was the 5th and Fathers Day is coming soon, maybe it'd make a good combo present from my 2 year old!
 
Yeah me personally I'd be more comfortable pulling and rebuilding the engine than I would be messing with electrical and lighting stuff like that. But when I pulled up the site and listed what I wanted it came up to $650 so that'll definitely have to wait a little bit. Idk though birthday was the 5th and Fathers Day is coming soon, maybe it'd make a good combo present from my 2 year old!

You would need to do the same amount of electrical work buying that one as you would doing it yourself.

Quick rundown of steps after headlight off bike:
1) put in oven to separate the glass from the plastic backing
2) get a dremel and remove some of the oem headlight so the new projector can fit in highbeam spot
3) inset new projectors in both spots
4) heat up the headlight again so you can glue the glass and backing together

The rest is all the same as buying a new headlight, running wires because you now have 2 spots that no longer take the oem size bulb. Then you need to mount the hid ballasts.

Don't think that for $650 you are alleviating some work they are not plug and play.
 
You would need to do the same amount of electrical work buying that one as you would doing it yourself.

Quick rundown of steps after headlight off bike:
1) put in oven to separate the glass from the plastic backing
2) get a dremel and remove some of the oem headlight so the new projector can fit in highbeam spot
3) inset new projectors in both spots
4) heat up the headlight again so you can glue the glass and backing together

The rest is all the same as buying a new headlight, running wires because you now have 2 spots that no longer take the oem size bulb. Then you need to mount the hid ballasts.

Don't think that for $650 you are alleviating some work they are not plug and play.
Ok thanks for the heads up I assumed they would be pretty much plug and play. Idk why but DIY electrical stuff always made me a bit nervous.
 
I just bought the v2 led headlight. Didn't realize that it didn't include the drl, just ordered those as well. It's a pretty nice looking unit, however, the wiring harness has three big blades that would fit in the high beam connector, but the high beam connector only has two contacts. I wire stuff for a living so it's not the end of the world, a little disappointing though. I had already pulled the fairings to dyno tune the bike, ordered the speedo healer, quick shifter, clearwater aux lights in addition to this headlight. Figured i would do everything possible while the fairings were off. I imagine they will be off longer than I had initially planned. I'm still on the fence about this headlight, but it does look very nice. I personally feel it looks much better than stock. I considered the v1 with hids and demon eyes but I read a couple reviews saying some people had problems with moisture in that version. I typically do hid low beam and led high beam in every vehicle i drive for best of both worlds, best directional brightness with hid low beam and instant on, extremely wide throw with the LED high beam. I believe returns are accepted through the end of January in case I don't end up looking this setup. I will update as i install.
 
Btw big shout out to boosted cycle performance...... Made 212.2 horsepower and 122.9 tq with Brock's ct dual titanium exhaust and a sprint air filter on the dyno on Friday. I am beyond thrilled, way more than I was expecting.
Just those two bolt-ons only, no ceramic bearings, CF rims, etc....??

That's modified ZX14R hp and torque....pretty impressive for a Hayabusa...considering with those sorts of bolt-ons we are in the 186-190 hp range normally.

Well done-you got a good one.
 
Yep, that's it. Bought it brand new a couple months ago. I would have been ecstatic to hit 200, and was shocked at the baseline pull being 199.7, even running incredibly rich. I was also surprised that you can just turn on launch control and enable quick shifting in the factory ECU.

Still figuring out the best way to wire up this light. Quite a lot of giblets to run two solid state lights.

IMG_20201208_174126.jpg
 
Yep, that's it. Bought it brand new a couple months ago. I would have been ecstatic to hit 200, and was shocked at the baseline pull being 199.7, even running incredibly rich. I was also surprised that you can just turn on launch control and enable quick shifting in the factory ECU.

Still figuring out the best way to wire up this light. Quite a lot of giblets to run two solid state lights.

View attachment 1630426
Launch control and quick shifting through the ECU? Is this a Hayabusa we are talking about?

Those are incredible hp figures for simple bolt ons...my bike made 186 with a full pipe, filter and Bazzaz system (new plugs, oil, fresh chain cleaning and lube) so your bike is very impressive to get a baseline of those numbers...
 
Yes, it is a hayabusa. ECU editor gives full control of the ECU. Apparently it will even do boost by gear and everything if you want to get into forced induction.

Just to clarify, baseline pull with those two mods, i have no idea what it was putting out off the showroom floor.

2017 and on apparently more commonly make more power... Someone else on this forum made even a little more than that with a different titanium exhaust.
 
Got my fairing wiring done, it's velcro'd in a big wad at the moment, i imagine said wad won't fit as is and will take some finagling to make everything work out. I used tap splices on the turn signal hot wires for the headlight led turn signal triggers, a tap splice to a bullet crimp from the running lights for the ignition relay trigger for my clearwater aux driving LEDs, i cut the new headlight high beam wire a couple inches back and added an insulated blade connector on each side of where it was cut, on the side not attached to the headlight, i ran another wire with a bullet crimp for the clearwater high beam trigger. I also got a Harley h9 to h7 adapter so I could use the 3/8 blade terminals that came on the new headlight. The unused h9 connector is just zip tied to the harness out of the way, and i ran the new headlight led turn signal triggers to a phoenix connector (i would normally use a male phoenix on one side and female on the other for a quick disconnect, but I have no female phoenix connectors available here. If I remember, I'll grab one when I go home over the holidays) where they meet the wires tap spliced into the turn signal hot wires. Everything has a disconnect, should anything ever need to be removed

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