LAST QUESTION ON TENSIONER,PLEASE HELP!!!!!

O

OB_c_rod2000

Registered
ok i have read numerous posts on this subject. i dont want to be paranoid but i am almost positive im hearing a little noise now. if i rev it up real quick to like 5k and let off i can hear it. does that sound like the tensioner. anyway what is the TRUTH on how often you have to adjust it?I dont do very many highspeed runs or dragstrip runs. i mainly just cruise or screw around(burnouts,ect). Point is i dont want to put in the manual tensioner if im gonna have to adjust it every day!So if i do , which one should i get the a.b.e??how can i get a hold of him??
 
I bought a manual from John at APE, nice piece but it didnt come with a freakin gasket, WTF? anyway I havent installed it yet but they told me if you run it hard, adjust about evey thousand miles but keep your ears open for noise!! If yours is making noise, I'd change it! $58 to your door, cheap piece of mind, I don't want to be in the hills, out of cell phone range when it blows up!! My bike has made noise since new as has my buddies 99 with the 3 dot tensioner. Rattles at idle(slow) when cold but goes away when warm, it ain't the valves clattering, it ain't the clutch chattering, it is loudest right by the tensioner area, sounds kinda like a rod knockin but not quite as deep sounding. I guess this is the tensioner but I am not sure, I am changing it though. Good Luck!!
 
zxalan, so what did you do about the gasket? doesnt shcnitz have one? so it would probably be alright to check every oil change?? i change mine about every 1500-2000 max.
 
ZXALAN

Please do not take any offense, but this is b.u.l.l.s.h.i.t.

This is a problem with Suzuki and we all have to team together and make them solve the problem... There is enough of us here to make them listen.
 
someone post pics of stock then manual tensionser installed please? Side by side pics to see how and what. Thanks
Lee
 
I'm installing mine today. Suckzuki is already backorder hell, I don't want my bike sitting in the shop for months while they wait on parts. adowell, I can understand the 'its a principle thing', BUT...I love to ride.

"manual tensioner boy"
 
I am with Lanta and Adowell, Shitzuki should stand behind their product and discover the problem, or reimburse us for the cost of the manual tensioner and give is free lifetime adjustments on it by their dealers!!!
Not take a chance on our lives and wait for the bomb to go before repairing them. They are just trying to wait for all of our one year warrantees to run out then charge us to fix them, then they still won't do it correctly, whats next a "4 dot tensioner, guaranteed to last a full month!" But I dont want my bike sitting in a dealer, waiting two months for parts, only to be assembled by some zit faced little punk who used to work on briggs and stratton mini bikes to rebuild my 165hp motor. I have spent over $300 in dyno tuning alone, not to have it blow up and have to be rebuilt and re-tuned!!! It would probably never be as strong again!! Fukk these people, I am going postal!!!!

The manual tensioner is easy to put on but I am still not sure what is the easiest way and most accurate way to adjust it. The instructions say turn the motor over while adjusting and as soon as you feel the chain guides rub the chain, back it off 1/4 of a turn and lock it. I don't have a stand for the swingarm so How can I turn it over?? I am thinking of pulling the spark plugs and using the starter to crank it over and snug as necessary!!! I guess I'll try to use the old gasket unless it breaks coming off!POS! :(

[This message has been edited by ZXALAN (edited 25 July 2000).]
 
ZXALAN
If you crank it and the tension adjuster isn't inside its limit, well, its just like having no tension adjuster (or a failed one.) is this not right??

This is what I am going to do.
Remove old one. Install new one.
tighten it finger tight, (prety tight finger tight I think)
If I am not mistaken, the chain should still be in the same position as when you took the old one off, thus finger tight should give you about 28 odd LBS of force on the tensioner.

put in gear, like 3rd, rock bike forward a bit re check to see if it is still finger tight. don't undo it, but if really slack tighten again. Start bike (cross fingers first) if it knocks tighten a bit, if it whines, undo a bit.

There.
Anyopne else think this is a good or a bad procedure???
 
Nuts, your procedure would probably work too but if I used the crank it with the starter method, I would preload the chain as you describe, then turn it over a few times, check it, see if its still tight, then start it up and adjust as necessary. I also heard that you take the cam cover off along with the top chain guide, and adjust the tensioner till you have only 1/4" of play between the cam gears.

Here is what I am going to do:
Leave the stock tensioner in place, pull cam cover, measure the slack in the chain between the two sprockets with the stock tensioner in place.
Then simply leave the motor in the exact position that it is in(correlation to TDC or BDC), Install the new tensioner and adjust it until you have the same amount of slack as the stock tensioner. I may go a tad tighter just incase my tension is off because I will be doing this with the bike cold and my bike makes noise when cold.

If anyone else has suggestions for ADJUSTING THE CAM CHAIN, feel free to enlighten us!!
 
ZXALAN

Terminology (I got caught out on this one!!)
the item failing is the Cam Chain Tension Adjuster

The Cam Chain Tensioner is the long plastic strip inside the engine casing that the adjuster pushes on......

Okay.
If you crtank and its not done up reasonably as it should be (ie all the slack at the front of the chain, will it not be a problem??

If you just rock back and forward, you won't actually be turning the motor that far, just 1/4 turn max on the crank.....( and thats a bloody big rock!!)

hmmmmm

Nuts ;)
 
I just spoke to John at APE, he said you can either take off the cam cover and check the tension on the chain with the stock adjuster in place and then install the manual and adjust as necessary to get the same amount of slack in between the sprockets.

Or put the manual tensioner in, turn it finger tight, snug the jam nut slightly and start the motor. Back out on the adjuster bolt until you hear chain noise then tighten it JUST until the noise goes completely away, then lock the jam nut."There is no torque,tension, or clearance spec on this, each one is different."John.

I think I'll try the finger tight preload and adjust it while running method. Hope this helps yall!!
 
Oh yeah, forgot, Check for noise and adjust every thousand miles. Either method will work to check the tension, just back it off till it makes noise, tighten till it goes away and lock it. You're done!! Like setting valves on a car.
 
I set my valves on the car with the engine off and to a specified "tappet clearance"

Would.nt want my fingers in there I can tell you

Good procedure for the finger tightening job

Which is roughly similar to the above.

Excellent

(might be worth, running it by the finger tight and ear method untill its time to check tappets, then just check to see if there is 1/4 inch slack between sprockets)

Good one ZXALAN

Nuts ;)
 
There are as many ways to adjust the tensioner as there are mechanics. The objective is simply screw the bolt in until it is snug against the gude/chain and then loosen it 1/4 turn and lock it in place. Here is the way I did it. (1)removed original tensioner. Used a ball end allen wrench since there is little room to work. Do not turn the engine over without a tensioner in place against the guide/chain. (2)installed the manual unit and tighten the mounting bolts. (3) Screwed in the bolt as tight as possible by hand only. (4)started the engine and slighty loosened/retightened the bolt again several times by hand until I was sure it was fully against the guide/chain. (5)shut the engine off, loosened the bolt 1/4 turn and locked it in place. If you have any rattling type chain noise when you bip the throttle it is likely is too loose. If it has a constant noise from the chain it likely is too tight. If you don't feel comfortable doing this I would recommend a good mechanic.
 
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