Main Bearings

scrappy

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For the guys doing heavy HP applications, did you use OEM main bearings / rod bearings or an after market bearings?
 
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I really haven't seen an aftermarket offering but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

I put OEM back in mine but is not a turbo bike.
 
Looking on the interwebs and not finding hardened busa bearings.. was thinking the turbo might be too much for the OEM rod bearings and perhaps the mains...

Anyone know if hardened bearings exist for the busa or should the OEMS be good enough?
 
You can have the bearings coated with DLC or some other type of Dry Film. As JC stated, it is in the build
 
You do realize that a crankshaft runs on a film of oil, not actually on the bearings, what would hardened bearings do for you?

Richard
 
having mine done now in addition to other things. using oem...make sure that the person uses plasti gauge for tollerances
 
the Haynes manual said to use moly paste and oil. Will this work?


Do not use moly paste. It can clog the oil passages and does not mix in the engine oil. I use Red Line assembly lube. Permatex also makes a great assembly lube. Plastigauges does not assure roundness of the journals. Use a micrometer on the crank and a dial bore gauge on the case and rod ends. It's all in the build.
 
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For the guys doing heavy HP applications, did you use OEM main bearings / rod bearings or an after market bearings?

You can put the best of everything in it an still blow it to bits in a month. Find a good builder an tuner. Worth the bikes weight in gold :thumbsup: good luck on the build
 
i use STP oil treatment for assembly lube (yes i know that shows the hillbillie in me)
yes dial bore or telescope gauge the rod ends and cases and mic the crank for roundness
then plastigauge the clearances when assembling the motor
as others have said its all in how its assembled
 
If you are putting 400hp to the ground with stock rods you are running on borrowed time, no matter how good the build.

Richard
acutally the pistons melted due to a bad fuel pump. but the bearings looked fine ( still threw them out) and the crank was sent out and it was fine aswell and this was with 13.5:1 compression would I do this on a CP bike NO Wossner or Crower or Carrillo and no I do not use coatings
 
Just to make things very clear. I am not using plastiguage, i found my tolerances using micrometers. I am not using stock rods. I am using high performance engine internals.. as far as the Moly paste goes.. i haven't head of it causing problems, although i never asked... I saw the red line assembly lube, ill pick some up tomorrow and use that for all my internals, i had a feeling that this moly paste i paid $15 for a tube is not as good as the Haynes manual makes it out to be.. im not sure why they said to use that unless it was specified by Suzuki to use it.
 
acutally the pistons melted due to a bad fuel pump. but the bearings looked fine ( still threw them out) and the crank was sent out and it was fine aswell and this was with 13.5:1 compression would I do this on a CP bike NO Wossner or Crower or Carrillo and no I do not use coatings

LOL....:laugh:
 
Ok look the most importante thing is the fit of the bearings crankshaft and case sure you can get different bearings but it wont make a difference. :rulez: I strongly dicurage anyone who has no expeirence with bottom ends touching them. You will screw it up:welcome:
 
Ok look the most importante thing is the fit of the bearings crankshaft and case sure you can get different bearings but it wont make a difference. :rulez: I strongly dicurage anyone who has no expeirence with bottom ends touching them. You will screw it up:welcome:

I am having seasoned machinists show me exactly how to find the correct size of bearings and properly assemble the bottom end. Thank you for the concern though, this is not a lazy build.
 
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