Manual tensioner adjustment?

OB_Velociraptor

Registered
Although I can't know for sure if there is a large tensioner problem out there with the Busas, Jay has made a good case for a manual tensioner. Since I have not had a tensioner problem with either the original or the Suzuki replacment part, I am reluctant to change right away without some questions answered. How do we properly adjust a manual tensioner? How often(roughly) is readjustment necessary? For all types of racing I would assume that the tensioner is checked all the time, but that could be a pain for us non racers. So the tradeoff is the risk of the automatic tensioner vs the probable security of the manual but with added maintenance. Any words of wisdom from the oracles?
 
We have not personally installed the tensioner on a 'busa, so I can't give the exact routine. However, I am sure Lee Shierts can next time he pops in here.

Jay
 
To install and adjust you manual cam chain tensioner: Remove valve coverf and observe factory cam timing, yu may want to use a shop manual to verify proper timing marks at this time. Mark the timing dots, lines, whatever, I don't know at this time with correction fluid for easy reference.Mark the crank and case markings as well. this will dispell confusion. now remove the factory tensioner. Now set the reach of the new tensioner so that you are just barely able to bottom the base of the tension against the block, Dont tighten the locknut yet, just snug it for now. Now recheck your cam timing and make sure that no timing change has occured. Now install the tensioner bolts and torque to factory specs. Check timing again. Pull on your crank wrench and observe any slop in chain. If all is well, crank the engine and observe any clicking or ratcheting sounds, if so lightly tighten the tensioner bolt until sound becomes inaudible. Let engine fully warm up.Now slowly loosen tensioner up until you hear a faint ratcheting sound. Tighten back up once more until sound disappears. Now from this point is where tuners might disagree as to what the tensioner should be moved or not. I say to run the tensioner another 1/8 turn and tighten lock nut. When you hear faint ratcheting return later, time to adjust. I used this method for 6 years on my mid 8 second 81 Suzuki 1260 drag bike with cam motion G3 cams and never had a single cam or valve train related problem. Put over 3000 passes on this bike. Need I say more.
 
Oh no, not the V-chain. Sound like technology in reverse. True roller way to go, none better. Ask the automotive industry. they went the other way.
 
Thanks Jay work your magic just call me and let me know when your are done. No rush take your time I wont rush you. Nothing like Quality work.Say Hi to John for me. Thanks in advance again.
Johnnycheese

[This message has been edited by Johnnycheese (edited 13 April 2000).]
 
Back
Top