Master cylinder switch soldering question?

murphc13

Registered
Hi all.Im about to solder the brake light switch but I’m not sure which is the + and - of the Brembo that’s about to gonon.
I have a brown and a white.
The stock switch has a red/black and blue/black.Im guessing the red/black is + there.
Any help would be great!

85CFE612-C2B0-4D5A-8D18-BA2ED0348017.jpeg
 
I don't think it matters as I believe its an inline switch. Easy thing to try, twist together and give lever a quick test. I did this on mine, that's why I don't think polarity matters.

You need a maintenance plug there though. So if you take it apart you don't have to keep cutting the wire
I don’t understand the maintainance plug part.
Can I not just cut the stock connector and solder the red black and blue black to the brown and white of the switch that’s on the brembo mc that I want to put on?
 
A plug to disconnect for service.
Second both wires are positive power . It's a switch that is OPEN ,and when you apply brake it closes the circuit. This allows power to flow to brake light.
Ok so it doesn’t matter which ones I solder Bryan.Thats good.Its good to finally get around to this job.
I don’t mind not having the plug.If I ever remove the MC I’ll just solder the original switch in if selling or whatever.
 
I don't think it matters as I believe its an inline switch.
That's pretty much what I was going to say. I asked this question when installing a pressure switch when I went to rearsets 10 years ago and I'm pretty sure the answer I got was "it doesn't matter." I just hooked the wires up and hoped for the best. It worked. Second set of rearsets on the busa I did the same thing and it was fine.

I don’t understand the maintainance plug part.
Can I not just cut the stock connector and solder the red black and blue black to the brown and white of the switch that’s on the brembo mc that I want to put on?

You could but why not put some spade connectors in there so you can remove the switch or the MC if you ever need to? The best way to do it would be to solder in a plug that matches the OEM plug. You will probably find it here.


You could also cut the oem connector off the OEM switch but I hate cutting OEM stuf incase you ever need it someday. You could buy a used switch on Ebay to get the connector too.

Or get some audio contacts and file them down to fit in the OEM connector sockets. Crimp or solder them on the sensor wires. insert in the OEM connector. Tape it up good so they can't come out. That's how I did it. No problems in ten years.
 
You will probably find it here.

Good resource
 
Yep,not polarity sensitive and just crossed the wires and soldered up(after verifying it worked;)) and all good.Bled the front(this has to be the worst bike I’ve bled the brakes on ever.
Those front caliper nipples make it a PITA job.What were they thinking?The front mid guard has to come off ffs.
Nice firm lever but I’ll take her out tomorrow and see how it feels now.After having an RCS 19 on my now long gone 2013 Busa-abs I know the difference a decent radial master makes.
Thanks for the speedy help everyone.
 
Ok.Went out for a test spin today and got about 20 metres from the house and had to stop.....
Here’s the back story.
Replacement parts
Brembo MC from a 2018/9 KTM sdr1290
Biketek lever for same
The plunger came from a stock Aprilia RSV4 lever.
That’s the issue.The ‘length’ of the plunger can be adjusted by removing a little grubscrew which holds the plunger inplace.
It wasn’t long enough at first(during set up) so I had no lever.
The I made it longer and thought all was good.
Left the house on the bike and basically it was a little too long so the front MC was ‘on’ at all times.
Gotta revise it and make it a little shorter.
 
Back
Top