Mechanical oil scavenge pump

65Cobra

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I'm hoping I can gather enough information to finally get my bike running after five years in the garage. I'll start at the top but if you don't want the whole story, just skip the next two paragraphs...

In 10/2001 I installed a Mr Turbo unit on my '99 Busa, took it out for a successful test ride, then put it away for the winter. In 05/2002 I had a medical problem that kept me off the bike for years, except for one short ride each summer of 2003-2005. During the ride in 2004 I noticed smoke coming out the exhaust but didn't think anything of it since the bike had sat so long. In the latter part of 2005 I decided to ride regularly but was plagued with what I thought was white smoke, pouring out the exhaust. This past winter I pulled the motor to replace what I thought was a leaking head gasket only to find the scavenger pump was the problem.

After some research, I feel I know enough to refer to the scavenger pump that came with Mr Turbo's kit as a tiny piece of s-h-i-t. I called Mr Turbo a couple weeks ago, and basically ended up with his heavy duty scavenger pump ($250). Well the (unused) pump is going back tomorrow after finding out it is a GP-301 from Reverso Pumps which has a max operating temp of 140 degrees, well below the operating temp of oil. Reverso says the pump will withstand short periods of excess oil temps (i.e. drag racing) but will not hold up to sustained periods of riding (i.e. trips). Add to that the fact I was charged double what the pump sells for and I'm finished with him.

When I found out how large a true scavenger pump was, I couldn't find a reasonable place to mount it on my Busa, which is why I started a prior topic asking for help with a mounting location. Although there were no suggestions, I was introduced to the NLR mechanical pump which replaces the starter cover. So here is where I stand...

The Mr Turbo pump runs for 10 seconds when you first turn on the key, probably to pump out any excess oil that accumulated in the turbo cavity since the last shut down. Any electric pump can have that option as well as a delayed shut down which would let it run XX seconds after the motor is turned off. Both of these together seem to be pretty important from what I've read and I feel using an electric pump designed for this purpose would hold up for a long time. The disadvantages to such a pump are it's size and mounting location.

The NLR mechanical pump can only operate when the engine runs. Since the starter cover is higher than the outlet on my turbo I'm assuming any oil in the line will backflow to the turbo. I know there is a check valve in the line running to the turbo, so maybe there needs to be a check valve in the line running back to the mechanical pump. It doesn't look like one is furnished with the NLR unit so I'm wondering if my reasoning is flawed, or what. If I should use a check valve, then I have no clue what to get or where. I'd also like to find someone else that has used the NLR unit and I'm interested if anyone else makes something similar just so I can compare them.

I'm not putting down the NLR unit by any means so please don't think I am. I'm only trying to do the right thing without losing more money or what's left of the riding season. Had I asked questions before purchasing Mr Turbo's kit, I would have never made the purchase. Hopefully enough people will pitch in and we can see where this goes. No matter what, thanks for reading.
 
this is only based on my unrelated experience with mechanical positive dispacement pumps used as scavenge pumps (same situation you have)....

yes, you should have a low pressure check valve on the pressure side. Although positive displacment pumps "in theory" shouldn't have any flow when they are not running, they do have a tiny bit of oil flow and need a check valve to remove this issue.

I would also recommend a vent line off the return system, although not absolutely necessary, they do reduce the oil pulled from the main galley, which means more oil for the crank and head. It also reduces the stress on the turbo bearings. A well worthwhile modification if you have the ability.



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Siemens also makes a nice small but pricy pump which can handle hot oil.
http://tinyurl.com/p7vxe

If you have a problem with oil draining down to the turbo through the delivery line from the engine at rest this is a 1/8npt check valve that will solve it.
Deltrol Fluid Products part #1001-44

If you have a problem with oil draining back from the engine to the bearing housing a larger check valve is needed. This is a low cracking pressure valve for this purpose.
Hoke Part #6231 F4S (specify a 1 lb cracking pressure).

Neither of these valves are cheap so I suggest verifying the specific problem by measuring the amount of oil coming out of the lines before going this route.
 
I very much appreciate all the information so far and the part numbers for the check valves will help a lot. I already have a check valve in the line going to the turbo but will probably get one for the outgoing line no matter what I decided to use to scavenge the oil.

BTW, I noticed MC Xpress has a mechanical pump that apparently uses the same principle as the one by NLR, except it replaces the crank cover instead of the starter cover. Does anyone have any information on this unit? Has anyone ever used either unit? I assume, they turn at the same speed in either location so the only advantage I can think of is the one by MC Xpress mounts lower but I'm not sure if this would make any difference. Does MC Xpress have a dealer in the USA?

I'm still open for comments.
 
I'm a cheap #######, i just went to the local hydraulic fitting shop and picked up some low pressure one way valves for about $6. Work great.
 
Uncle Bob, sorry but I'm missing something when it comes to your explanation about a "vent line off the return system". I'm not sure what you mean by the return system or how that would reduce oil pulled from the main galley.
 
you run a vent line very close to the turbo drain. The positive displacment pump will pull a given volume out of the line (assuming its unrestricted) which could be a bad thing with no venting, because if there is none, the pressure will not be reduced, and it'll put all of that negative pressure on the bearings and due to that, it will pull more flow from the pressure side of the turbo, and thereby pull more oil away from the main galley.

The vent line is simply giving the pump something to suck on other than oil. This will also reduce the tendency for the line to "hydrolock" which can cause oil backing up in a rare situation of the drain flowing more than the pump.

Its simply a better situation. Less strain on the scavenge pump. Less strain on the turbo bearings. Less oil flow from the engine. Depending on how you set it up, more accomodation for oil flow rate changes between the return and pressure side. There is no negatives, all positives.
 
I understand now. With the vent line close to the turbo drain, the pump will continue to pull oil as long as there is enough oil in the main line and won't pull air until the oil in the main line drops past the vent line.

A couple questions...

I assume the vent line should be routed back to the crankcase and not just open. This way there is no danger of oil ever exiting the vent line and ending up outside the motor.

I also assume the vent line can be much smaller than the main line. I'm not sure if the mechanical pumps by NLR or MCX use a 3/8" or 1/2" main line, but would a 1/4" vent line be best or would you suggest some other size.

This is great because I'm almost there...

Will a mechanical pump be able to keep the oil line clear if the bike is running at low speeds or idling... stop light, traffic, etc.

A friend and I noticed we could easily construct a small rectangular shaped oil sump that bolts between the bottom of the (Rajay) turbo and the outlet block. The advantage is it will hold more oil in the event the line begins to backfill. But since the Mr Turbo kit came with a pump, I assume that means the turbo outlet is already below the oil level in the motor. Since the added oil sump will lower the outlet even further, let's say by 1" although I could make it less, would I be making things better or worse?

Thanks again for all the help. I finally feel like I'm putting together a good plan which will do this right.
 
the "reservior" you are talking about building/installing is a very good item to have. Like you say, it gives your turbo a little buffer zone, but it also allows for oil sloshing to be removed from the turbo drain area, which could cause momentary pressure issues on the drain.

I PREFER to have even a small reservoir on mine....but as I'm sure you can imagine, due to space/height restraints, sometimes its just not easily conceivable.

But as far as the height issues, 1" definitely won't matter any if its already bellow the oil level of the engine, and Mr Turbo kits are usually mounted very low. As you say, anything that comes with a scavenge pump, is definitely below the oil level.

As for vent line, it can be literally anything. I used a very small line...think it was 3/32", but it really doesn't matter. I ran mine so that it was above the oil level of the engine, I just found a nice place to stick it that was hidden from view. No reason to run it to the crank case vent or anything. If you want to be overly careful, you would want to put a small filter on it to keep bugs out, and water from somehow entering it, but that is all its doing.

If you have check valves on the oil return and pressure lines, then there is no real need for the vent line to be above the oil level, but I like to plan for the worse case situation....if a check valve decided to leak on you, it would flow out of the vent line if it ended below the oil level line.

Assuming the positive displacement pump is flowing a decent amount, you don't have to be very big on that line either. I'm running a 5/16" line on mine....since its being forced through the line, the extra girth is unnecary and is actually somewhat beneficial because it will have less scavenging issues with the vent line. Too big of a line would be more likely to suck air that oil.

The nice thing about a mechanically driven pump is its completely dependant on the speed of the engine. Which the oil supply side is also. So at idle, it will pull X amount, but the bikes oil pump will only supply X amount, and, for the most part, that ratio will stay the same as you rev it up. The pressure relief valve will pop at some point on the oil supply and it won't be linear after that, but it doesn't matter since the scavenge pump will always pull more than oil that is being supplied in that situation. Win/win all the way around.
 
I asked about the vent line because now that I'm not going to use the electric pump from Mr Turbo anymore, I have an unused 1/4" line that is connected to a fitting at the top of the clutch cover. It's more than long enough, so it would be easy to use that as the vent line for a mechanical pump.

One thing I forgot to mention. When I pulled the motor to replace the head gasket, I also upgraded a few items in the motor. One of the upgrades, that now bothers me, is I installed a high volume oil pump gear from APE. Do you think that will create a problem? If so, I could always reinstall the original gear since it's just behind the clutch basket.

BTW, after searching high and low I found an electric pump that sounds perfect in every way, including it's small size. It's a Siemens VDO 405-040-001-001. The only problem is the price is over $500 which is really steep. I probably would have used this had you not helped, but from what you've said so far, it sounds like you would still recommend the mechanical pump.

Thanks
 
BTW, after searching high and low I found an electric pump that sounds perfect in every way, including it's small size. It's a Siemens VDO 405-040-001-001. The only problem is the price is over $500 which is really steep.
By searching high and low I assume you mean you found it in my first post of this thread. Did you try the source listed? When I wrote it up they sold them for $460.
 
the problem with all the electric scavenge pumps I've read about, is they have a high failure rate (by my definition). When I was researching this, I called up mr. Turbo and was quizzing them about the ones they have availible, and the person I was talking to mentioned that theirs last a long time, and to show this he said "we even had a guy call the other day, needing another one, his lasted 4 years!"

That, in my book, is nothing to brag about!

I like going on long road trips and don't need to have a pump suddenly fail on me. It would be necessary (IMO) to bring an extra one with you for any trip beyond close to home, and thats not acceptable.

IF you had a problem with the high volume pump, which I think is unlikely, you could easily fix it by adding a restrictor to the pressure side of the turbo.
 
If the pump is made for the purpose it will have long service life but these pumps are not all created equal. ShurFlo pumps while relatively cheap are not rated for the temperatures of engine oil. Tilton (large supplier of automotive oil circulating pumps) I believe uses the SurFlo pump with a different housing that will handle higher temperatures but at a higher price. The Seimens is designed for pumping hot oil but is expensive. Like everything else you get what you pay for.
It’s just a lot easier to install the turbo high enough for a gravity drain. If I had an application that didn't permit that solution I would find a way to use the existing engine oil pump for scavenging. Two methods for this approach are shown in the link from my first post but both require some R&D for the specific application.
 
just a note, if you were to use the low pressure area in/near the pickup sump for the engine oil pump, you wouldn't want a vent line on the system. You would be adding a lot of air to the system and that would be bad.
 
I just want to thank you both, Gary and Uncle Bob, for going out of your way to help me. I feel much more confident that this issue is going to get fixed once and for all. Not only did the two of you give me more information in one week than Mr Turbo gave me since I purchased his kit, but it's also apparent he wasn't looking out for my best interest.

Gary, sorry about that 'high and low' comment. It didn't come out the way it was meant. I did search high and low, but that was before you told me about the VDO pump. I also got confused when partswarehouse.com didn't have the pump listed at all but later found it at partswarehouse.com.au where it was listed twice, and at two different prices, $506.29 and $523.68. If you happen to find the link for $460, let me know. But the bottom line is thanks.

Between the two of you, I ended up with the two best options for my bike... the VDO electric pump and the NLR mechanical pump. At this point I will probably go with the mechanical pump with a vent line and add a resevoir to the turbo. I'll post my results here so maybe it will help others. That's the great thing about forums.

Take care guys.

Dave
 
Ya the Internet is great. A few years ago we would have been struggling around on our own rediscovering wheels and now so much information is at our fingertips that the biggest problem is picking out the wheat from the chaff.
It will be interesting to hear how the NLR pump works on a street bike.
 
some peoples wheat is other peoples chaff
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hehe, I wuv you too.

You have data this time? No? This is becoming a rather predictable situation! Come back with some so I can tell you whats wrong with it
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