FI light will come on and stay on until you turn off the ignition and reset it. Doesn't hurt anything but it is annoying on the street when you bang a gear and watch a light flash and have no clock until you top,kill the engine and restart it. The busa does this with all shifters except Motorheads' kill box. Hopefully the ECM doesnt store any trouble codes in its memory hendering any performance, But I doubt it. I have a PS3, it does the same thing, no loss of HP so far.
MRE Air Shifter
- Thread starter OB_ZXALAN
- Start date
Frank Adams
Registered
I'll be at Indy also.
Yes there are some things you need to know before you install.
You need some diode tach wires, 12v relay, and some in-line diodes to do it right.
Also, an on-board compressor would be nice to have on there. Better then going to the gas station everytime you need air!
Personally, I like the fittings you get from the airshifter at MPS.
Don't forget you'll need a MPS kill box also.(to adjust kill time)
[This message has been edited by frank adams (edited 08 August 2000).]
Yes there are some things you need to know before you install.
You need some diode tach wires, 12v relay, and some in-line diodes to do it right.
Also, an on-board compressor would be nice to have on there. Better then going to the gas station everytime you need air!
Personally, I like the fittings you get from the airshifter at MPS.
Don't forget you'll need a MPS kill box also.(to adjust kill time)
[This message has been edited by frank adams (edited 08 August 2000).]
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
I have an extra MPS box 100.00 plus shipping
Frank Adams
Registered
I also have a way to use the shift minder for an autoshifter, works great!
I'll show ya this weekend.(Prostar)
I'll show ya this weekend.(Prostar)
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
I have one of those for sale also...
You could hit this former electrical controls tech with something better than that,,hahahahah. But what I dont get is why are you mentioning diodes and such with an electric over air shifter ..has nothing to do with your tach? Just a 12 volt pulse...now if your talking about using the tach to trigger the solenoid then we might be getting somewhere... 
[This message has been edited by NLR (edited 08 August 2000).]
[This message has been edited by NLR (edited 08 August 2000).]
G
Guest
go all electric!!!!
Frank Adams
Registered
First of all, why aren't you on your way to Indiana Seb?
I can show you better when we're at the track.
Picture this....
You can't run the shiftminder to the switching valve because it wont stay on long enough to pressure the air cylinder. So I had to run it to the MPS kill Box. This way the switching valve stays on as long as the MPS box is killing the motor.
The usual diode wires for the airshifter go to the coils.(this is normal)
And another set of diode wires run from the coils to the shiftminder.
AND, a couple of in-line doides run from the switching valve to the MPS box.
I bet your lost right?
I can show you better when we're at the track.
Picture this....
You can't run the shiftminder to the switching valve because it wont stay on long enough to pressure the air cylinder. So I had to run it to the MPS kill Box. This way the switching valve stays on as long as the MPS box is killing the motor.
The usual diode wires for the airshifter go to the coils.(this is normal)
And another set of diode wires run from the coils to the shiftminder.
AND, a couple of in-line doides run from the switching valve to the MPS box.
I bet your lost right?
Frank Adams
Registered
I think you have some resistance somewhere?
When I had My stuff wired to the battery it was letting power feed back into the PC2. The way I noticed this was the light on the PC2 would slightly stay lite. Thats why I wired into the tail light and but a in-line diode.
When I had My stuff wired to the battery it was letting power feed back into the PC2. The way I noticed this was the light on the PC2 would slightly stay lite. Thats why I wired into the tail light and but a in-line diode.
Frank Adams
Registered
Probe your ground wires first with a test light to see if any current is running back through them.
If there is that where you need to start tracing your problem. Then a in-line diode might be the cure.
If there is that where you need to start tracing your problem. Then a in-line diode might be the cure.
Frank Adams
Registered
The diodes don't do anything for letting it shift quicker.
What a doide does is it only lets the current run one direction. Kinda like a check valve.
All four coils has to be used as per the MPS Box.
The FI light comes on because the ECM detects a interuption to the fuel pump when the motor goes through kill sequence.
Is your MPS Box set at 50ms yet?(fastest setting)
Did you try to move your switching valve closer to your air cylinder yet?
Anyone of those two will speed up your shift time.
I'm still trying to figure out why your FI doesn't come on?
I have mine wired to the brake light which makes it switched also.
What a doide does is it only lets the current run one direction. Kinda like a check valve.
All four coils has to be used as per the MPS Box.
The FI light comes on because the ECM detects a interuption to the fuel pump when the motor goes through kill sequence.
Is your MPS Box set at 50ms yet?(fastest setting)
Did you try to move your switching valve closer to your air cylinder yet?
Anyone of those two will speed up your shift time.
I'm still trying to figure out why your FI doesn't come on?
I have mine wired to the brake light which makes it switched also.
Frank. I have about 8" of hose to the shift valve. It seems that the engine loads up or it is causing turbo lag when the engine kill is activated. The mps is set full ccw. The quickest. If I activare the kill in neutral witl the engine below 4000 then the engine will quit. When it doesn't it seems loaded up and takes a few seconds to clear out. I was hoping that it would shift so quick that I could carry My wheel thru the shift.
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