Gen-2 2008, stock motor, 63-1/2", pump gas. I got my clutch working much better now and am able to run some reasonable 60's. The 1.442 was on a pro tree and I'm sure there is more 60' to be had. I've been fighting bog vs wheelie for most of a couple years and ended up replacing the clutch basket and clutch. I think the real issue was too much stack height on the clutch. The air was not good, 3510 feet DA but I went 8.89 @ 154.62. This is only slightly better than my previous best, but that best was in 1200 feet of air. When I get back in some of that air (maybe better!) I will speed up a lot. I think I will see 8.70's out of this bike this fall, still stock unmolested motor, pump gas, and fully streetable. I think this fall 40 hp of the juice will put me in the 8.50's. Should be fun.
My new best ... finally
- Thread starter Dennis
- Start date
Very impressive to me on a stock motor. Can you post a pic of the bike and tell us about the mods to the bike ?
Light weight wheels, mirror block offs ......... what kind of shot you running ?
Makes my slow arse feel better
Extended tail, I see the passenger pegs are gone ...... factory subframe ? SS lines, mudflaps gone ....... and it's the fastest color '08
Makes my slow arse feel better
Extended tail, I see the passenger pegs are gone ...... factory subframe ? SS lines, mudflaps gone ....... and it's the fastest color '08
You missed (at least missed writing) the fuel tank. That saved about 7 pounds. The front tire saves a couple pounds. The rear line is stainless because it is longer, front is stock. Of course it is geared and has an air shifter. I'm spraying just a 40 shot which is about the max on stock valves/springs. It's also got a shock but I'm not sure it really makes the bike any faster, at least not yet. I put a flat pan on it after cracking two stockers and that required the sidewinder. Neither of those made it any faster though. The wheels only saved about 7 pounds. It all adds up but I was expecting more. I need to weigh it sometime.
My SWB commuter '08 (orange) without all the lightweight stuff has gone 9.24 for comparison.
My SWB commuter '08 (orange) without all the lightweight stuff has gone 9.24 for comparison.
Nice, I want top run an eight before I get rid of my bike, I'm a bug dude so itll take a little more I'm sure lol
In your last post it says you are spraying a 40 shot? Was that the 8.89? with spray? Original post just says pump gas and nothing about spraying. Oh and for the record AGAIN, I HATE SMALL GUYS!!! Good pass though.
The 8.89 is all stock motor, no spray. I've got a 40 shot on it and am hoping to see 8.50's spraying this fall in good air.
One guy I race with went from a high of 295 to his current weight of 220 to go faster. It sure makes a difference.
thats a really good pass, looks like you have all the right mods
The only other mod I can think of is to switch to E-85 like we did on my buddy's bike. He has an issue now that may or may not be related to the fuel so I'm not sure I want to do it. Other mods like going longer or getting a slider clutch have negatives that go along with them so they don't excite me.
Yep, and that was in bad air. On a better-air day earlier in May, at a track that always seems to be a little faster anyway I went 158 mph with no spray a couple times (two quickest from that day below). This was before I had my clutch working right so the 60's were way off. I was fighting wheelies to go 1.53 and now I can go 1.43 with less drama. My quicker 8.89's from this weekend are significantly better passes than the faster passes from May.
methyman
Never Forgotten
I have to say you did a great job setting up your bike. Do you use a lock up clutch or over ride transmission at all? The times you are running are impressive!! I just put a +6 swing arm on my bike and going to take it to the 1/8th mile soon. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!!
No lockup and I don't know what an over ride trans is. I have a stock clutch with Brock's clutch mod and three of the 6 spacers installed. I use Mobil-1 car oil and can feel a difference in the clutch. Depending on your weight you might want 6 spacers. I've only been doing this since 2005 so I sure don't know everything. Some things I've learned:
1. There are different ways to launch. Try a few suggestions and see what works for you. For a long time I slipped the clutch out and gradually opened the throttle. Late in 2009 I tried a suggestion of leaving at a lower rpm (3500-4000) and concentrated on getting the clutch out and throttle open before the 60' beams. That seemed to work but I only had a couple days of trying it before the end of the year. I changed the clutch over the winter just because it had two season on it and I wasn't able to use that method anymore. It looks like I can use that method again and it works on the pro tree for me. My lessons learned are to try different launch methods, and that I like the feel of my clutch at 1.950" stack height. The one that gave me grief was about 2.00".
2. Guys talk about how important an aftermarket shock is and suspension needs to be set up properly. I can't say I've proven either of these things myself yet but I do have a JRI shock set for about an inch of sag. For sure it is more adjustable on rebound. I got adjustable lowering links to get the swingarm pivot higher than the rear axle. These things seem to be so commonly accepted that I just did them on faith.
3. At 6" over I would go down one tooth in the front and up three in the back (I am) or probably better would be stock front and up 5 or 6 in the back.
4. ECU control is nice. You have much better control over air shifter and nitrous than with the dedicated boxes.
5. Whatever you do, just do it right the first time. I put my nitrous on three years ago and had nothing but problems. I had too much pressure in my bottle so the solenoid wouldn't open. I got plugged jets. I lost races because of this and wasted time figuring it out. Well, my lesson was a pressure gage, nitrous filter, and purge kit are cheaper than driving to a race, paying entry, and losing first round because my equipment doesn't work right. Dan at Dynotunenitrous.com helped me a bunch. Do it right the first time.
6. Make lots of runs. I've got almost 200 passes so far this year and my season started April 14th.
I'll tell you whatever I know, no reason for secrets, but I don't know everything. PM me if you want my ph # or something.
1. There are different ways to launch. Try a few suggestions and see what works for you. For a long time I slipped the clutch out and gradually opened the throttle. Late in 2009 I tried a suggestion of leaving at a lower rpm (3500-4000) and concentrated on getting the clutch out and throttle open before the 60' beams. That seemed to work but I only had a couple days of trying it before the end of the year. I changed the clutch over the winter just because it had two season on it and I wasn't able to use that method anymore. It looks like I can use that method again and it works on the pro tree for me. My lessons learned are to try different launch methods, and that I like the feel of my clutch at 1.950" stack height. The one that gave me grief was about 2.00".
2. Guys talk about how important an aftermarket shock is and suspension needs to be set up properly. I can't say I've proven either of these things myself yet but I do have a JRI shock set for about an inch of sag. For sure it is more adjustable on rebound. I got adjustable lowering links to get the swingarm pivot higher than the rear axle. These things seem to be so commonly accepted that I just did them on faith.
3. At 6" over I would go down one tooth in the front and up three in the back (I am) or probably better would be stock front and up 5 or 6 in the back.
4. ECU control is nice. You have much better control over air shifter and nitrous than with the dedicated boxes.
5. Whatever you do, just do it right the first time. I put my nitrous on three years ago and had nothing but problems. I had too much pressure in my bottle so the solenoid wouldn't open. I got plugged jets. I lost races because of this and wasted time figuring it out. Well, my lesson was a pressure gage, nitrous filter, and purge kit are cheaper than driving to a race, paying entry, and losing first round because my equipment doesn't work right. Dan at Dynotunenitrous.com helped me a bunch. Do it right the first time.
6. Make lots of runs. I've got almost 200 passes so far this year and my season started April 14th.
I'll tell you whatever I know, no reason for secrets, but I don't know everything. PM me if you want my ph # or something.
methyman
Never Forgotten
A over ride transmission is when you can shift the transmission with out a clutch except taking off in first gear, full throttle shifts with out ignition kill. Can't down shift transmission until you come to a stop. Strictly for drag racing. I have over ride transmissions in all my drag four wheelers.
I can attest that Dennis is a great racer and not everyone that wieghs the same or has the same mods will get the same times. it takes seat time and talent. Dennis has both.
congrats on beating your personal best man
Thanks Bob!
It's great beating my personal best, but really I'm just hoping to beat you this weekend!
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