Need a diagnosis from the experts!

pward76

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Geez I hope this is something simple (and cheap). It's 50 today, and I took the Busa out for her first ride of spring. Started having trouble shifting into 1st after a while. I thought this might be because I lowered the shift lever when I put on the TL1000R pegs, and made a note to myself to re-adjust when I got home.

On the way home, on the highway, I tried to down shift and got a couple in, and then it would downshift no more. I was in 3rd or 4th in town and able to feather the clutch to get going from the stop signs and made it home. Total ride was 27 miles.

I adjusted the shifter and it was a little better, but not right. I can get the bike to shift up and down if I roll it slowly back and forth (engine off). I had to go back to work so I have not tried to ride it since.

I have Mobil 1 redcap oil in it. It was changed in the fall just before I put the bike away for winter mods - probably got 75 miles on it. I put a steel braided clutch line on this winter, but I don't think thats the problem since I can release the clutch just fine.

I hope I have a simple problem, but I have not seen anything like this on the board before...

Another question, what purpose do the two nuts on the gear shift rod serve? If both are loose, would that cause my problem?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
 
Yep...........you have an easy one to fix here. You need to bleed your clutch buddy. Since the Bus has a hydraulic, it sometimes needs bleeding. I've had the same exact thing happen to me.
 
Thanks Sledhead!

That sounds good and I will do it. I''m curious, though. I thought that all the hydraulic clutch did was disengage and engage the clutch. When I pull the handle, it does release the clutch. Maybe not enough though, eh?

I bought one of those Mity-Vacs to bleed the clutch and brake lines, and the connection on the bleed valve left much to be desired. I tried all of the connectors and only one was close, but I had to hold it just right to get it to stay...
 
your correct again. the plates aren't probably completely disengaging. does the clutch pull feel "light" or spongy?

BTW....I've had to do it 2 times different years after storing it.

Hey........your in IA?
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?
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?? and your riding??? we're supposed to get 6 plus inches of snow tomorrow
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oh....and in answer to your other question. The nuts are there to adjust from the shift lever to the tranny. And yes, they could pose a problem if the nuts are loose.
 
Hey sledhead - you were right!  (I thought you were all the time  
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 ).  I re-bled the clutch, the old fashioned way, and while I was at it, I re-did the brakes as well.  

That did the trick, I went for a little ride and everything seems cool.

I am fairly disappointed in the MityVac.  I know others have used it with success, but all it seems to do for me is leak all over the floor.

Yes, I am in Iowa - the Des Moines area - to be a little more specific.  Supposed to be around 53 tomorrow as well - Woo Hoo!  

Thanks for your help and here's hoping the weatherman is wrong for you folks up north.



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The one and only problem I had with my 03 Busa was the clutch slave cylinder failed at 21000 miles.
Mine failed completly in the course of 5 miles.
I have seen others that have failed more slowly though.
Do your self a favor and order a new one.
They are only about 60 bucks.
The air that got into the system came from somewhere and I bet that somewhere is the slave.
 
Thanks Timmy.

If the clutch slave goes bad, it better be fixed under warranty, this is an 04 with 5085 miles, and I bought the extended warranty (something I rarely do).

I'm guessing I did a poor job of bleeding the line when I put the new one on this winter and thats where the air got in. but I will keep a close eye on it. Good info...
 
Mine gets dark after one season of riding so I change it every year. Just look @ the window in the resevor and you can see the difference between the cluth and front brake fluid color.

*Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture so change it atleast every two years.

Patrick
 
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